[Joshinator99]

Guys, please keep politics out of this discussion. Thanks!

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Am I the only one still not happy with the current offerings for theft protection?

[SWFLZL1]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Am I the only one still not happy with the current offerings for theft protection?

No, I’m not real happy with my options either.

[Deacon Blues]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Am I the only one still not happy with the current offerings for theft protection?

Not at all. I've found since the update on my car that my mobilistics relay has had strange timing. Before I could hit the button on the relay remote then start the car. Now I'm finding I have to push to start, then hit the relay remote within a half second. Not sure if it is a coincidence but it's annoying, and I worry about stalling at an intersection and not being able to get it quickly restarted.

[SS_Don]

Originally Posted by Deacon Blues

Not at all. I've found since the update on my car that my mobilistics relay has had strange timing. Before I could hit the button on the relay remote then start the car. Now I'm finding I have to push to start, then hit the relay remote within a half second. Not sure if it is a coincidence but it's annoying, and I worry about stalling at an intersection and not being able to get it quickly restarted.

I have not run into that issue.

[DamonZ28]

Originally Posted by Deacon Blues

Not at all. I've found since the update on my car that my mobilistics relay has had strange timing. Before I could hit the button on the relay remote then start the car. Now I'm finding I have to push to start, then hit the relay remote within a half second. Not sure if it is a coincidence but it's annoying, and I worry about stalling at an intersection and not being able to get it quickly restarted.

I haven't noticed any change with my Mobilistics relay timing since the update.

[olrocker]

So I was going through the stuff in my parents attic and found the old Chapman air horn siren alarm that was on my dad’s 1985 Buick Regal. He had it installed when it was new, and gave me the car in 1997 for my first car. We removed the siren because it kept going off but that was a wiring issue and not a problem with the siren - these things are LOUD!!!! Didn’t take a picture but I will when I have time to post…..

My question is, I’m trying to think of a way to integrate it into the Camaro’s security system. It runs on simple 12 volts DC, has just a red and black wire, and was triggered in old cars when the door was opened and the interior dome light pin switch in the fender closed and pulled current for the dome lights to turn on, it triggered a relay that spun the siren motor.

Any electrical engineering gurus out there think there’s a way to run a relay off the factory alarm horn signal to a relay connecting the battery to the siren? I know it’s a left field question, just wondering.

[Devstrike]

Originally Posted by Deacon Blues

Not at all. I've found since the update on my car that my mobilistics relay has had strange timing. Before I could hit the button on the relay remote then start the car. Now I'm finding I have to push to start, then hit the relay remote within a half second. Not sure if it is a coincidence but it's annoying, and I worry about stalling at an intersection and not being able to get it quickly restarted.

I haven't had this issue since I got my update. I hope it resolves itself soon.

[bishopts]

Originally Posted by olrocker

So I was going through the stuff in my parents attic and found the old Chapman air horn siren alarm that was on my dad’s 1985 Buick Regal. He had it installed when it was new, and gave me the car in 1997 for my first car. We removed the siren because it kept going off but that was a wiring issue and not a problem with the siren - these things are LOUD!!!! Didn’t take a picture but I will when I have time to post…..

My question is, I’m trying to think of a way to integrate it into the Camaro’s security system. It runs on simple 12 volts DC, has just a red and black wire, and was triggered in old cars when the door was opened and the interior dome light pin switch in the fender closed and pulled current for the dome lights to turn on, it triggered a relay that spun the siren motor.

Any electrical engineering gurus out there think there’s a way to run a relay off the factory alarm horn signal to a relay connecting the battery to the siren? I know it’s a left field question, just wondering.

If you ran the feed for the low pressure fuel pump to a relay with a kill switch. You could swap 87 and 87a. One goes to the fuel pump the other goes to the horn. So active it will default to the horn. It will sound the horn with fuel pump command. Being obnoxiously loud and also no letting the car run. And disengaged it will run normally.

[Deacon Blues]

Originally Posted by SS_Don

I have not run into that issue.

Originally Posted by DamonZ28

I haven't noticed any change with my Mobilistics relay timing since the update.

Originally Posted by Devstrike

I haven't had this issue since I got my update. I hope it resolves itself soon.

Can you describe your start sequence? Maybe I'm just doing it wrong. Because I used to be able to hit the relay, then push to start. It no longer works that way (for me at least).

[DamonZ28]

Originally Posted by Deacon Blues

Can you describe your start sequence? Maybe I'm just doing it wrong. Because I used to be able to hit the relay, then push to start. It no longer works that way (for me at least).

I hold the button on the relay for approximately a second, often while I have the door open and before sitting down. I then drop my keys & relay into my pocket, sit down, and push to start. No issues unless I wait too long in between pushing buttons.

[Deacon Blues]

Interesting. I've always had to have much closer timing between pushing the relay button and then push to start. I (used to) get in, get situated (buckle up, adjust steering wheel), foot on brake + clutch, push relay and then < 1 second push to start. Anything else would yield a no start or the equivalent of key turned/engine off scenario (accessory mode?).


Now I'm having to get in, brake+clutch, push to start and then hit the relay button.

[Ray3768]

Originally Posted by Deacon Blues

Interesting. I've always had to have much closer timing between pushing the relay button and then push to start. I (used to) get in, get situated (buckle up, adjust steering wheel), foot on brake + clutch, push relay and then < 1 second push to start. Anything else would yield a no start or the equivalent of key turned/engine off scenario (accessory mode?).


Now I'm having to get in, brake+clutch, push to start and then hit the relay button.

Mine seems to do this intermittently. Every once in a while I'll get in, press the button on the Mobilistics fob, then push in the clutch/press the brakes and press the start button...and nothing. Then while holding the clutch/brakes, I hit the Mobilistics fob button and the car starts up. It almost seems like there is some radio interference when this happens and the Mobilistics fob signal is not getting to the relay. I'm going to try giving the Mobilistics fob a double tap each time I start the car and see if it still occurs. The problem is it only happens once every couple of weeks.

-Ray

[Deacon Blues]

Thank you guys for your responses on this, I appreciate it! I'll also try the double tap. I know the frequency range isn't far by mobilistics own admission, so I've never tried it without being seated in the car (plus it's a manual so no remote start, I've never had to worry about that).
I'll see what happens and report back .