[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by SpeZ

2017 workshop manual says .037-.043" gap on stock LT4.
I am at 14.5 psi, .037" gap with the NGK 6510 and have zero issues wether cold or on track.

There are so many variables in these cars, the fuel owners use, the oil they select and how these cars are driven. So sure... the NGK 6510s work for a lot of owners who simply hit a blast on the street or drag racing for a whole 8-10 seconds a clip on an engine that has been cooled down or whatever. The frequency of the owners who push a ZLE to the limits like Road Racing demands is probably less than 5% of ZLE production and maybe, 1-2% of ZL1 production. Yes, they will work... all the way until they do not. I have listed the physics, materials and risks versus rewards... what you do with that info is up to you.

Your profile shows you are in Europe... the fuel there is a base of 95-98 Octane RON which is far better with less additives than USA based fuels beginning with an 87 octane before additives and blending to achieve a best of 93oct. Its this lack of transparency where others get on a Car Forum and see posts stating "this works for me so it should for you..." that doesn't help the person looking to truly solve an issue with Geographical Data would completely skew the outcome.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by ZLElvira

There are so many variables in these cars, the fuel owners use, the oil they select and how these cars are driven. So sure... the NGK 6510s work for a lot of owners who simply hit a blast on the street or drag racing for a whole 8-10 seconds a clip on an engine that has been cooled down or whatever. The frequency of the owners who push a ZLE to the limits like Road Racing demands is probably less than 5% of ZLE production and maybe, 1-2% of ZL1 production. Yes, they will work... all the way until they do not. I have listed the physics, materials and risks versus rewards... what you do with that info is up to you.

Your profile shows you are in Europe... the fuel there is a base of 95-98 Octane RON which is far better with less additives than USA based fuels beginning with an 87 octane before additives and blending to achieve a best of 93oct. Its this lack of transparency where others get on a Car Forum and see posts stating "this works for me so it should for you..." that doesn't help the person looking to truly solve an issue with Geographical Data would completely skew the outcome.

Agree 100%

I watched my buddy with his Coyote making similar power to me melt the ground strap off his 6510s and damage his engine…meanwhile the 6510s had worked for me up to that point. What works for some means nothing if any variables change. I’m sure as heck not taking chances with a set of plugs when it’s $80 to get ones that are a proven upgrade on boosted engines… so now I’m running Brisk.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by ZLElvira

The Brisk RR14S will be what works well for your ZL1.

Grab a Drink or maybe a Snack as I dive deep into WHY Brisk plugs are the best and the reason I shared this info with Gabe a year ago to solve a misfire issue I had when first racing my car. It was this revelation which lead me onto the path of cooling and removal of the OEM oil cooler by determination to "Remedy the Source of the Issues and Not the Symptoms!"

Silver Plugs have a better conductivity of energy VS any other element, including Copper... this is why all Marine wire is "Silver Tinned" to reduce heat and increase conductivity with better corrosion protection, or in Aircraft... all wires are Silver with a white flameproof insulation and zero copper so a thinner gauge wire can be used to transmit the same current to keep the AC weight as low as possible. Many Decades ago, the history of this plug company dates way back before Lamborghini spec'd them for their production engines as well as others like Ferrari, Pagani and higher powered Mercedes/AMG brands.

Iridium and Platinum plugs belong in Toyota Camrys, where the goal is to run 100k miles between maintenance schedules... not anywhere near a racing engine that is fine-tuned for it's usage/abuse and a thumb on the button of destruction.

Its a joke that so many start with the NGKs 6510 that is an iridium fine wire with a melting point >4400º where everything else around it begins melting at 1600º!! If you know someone who has ping'd their engine and melted the strap off the plug, there's a really good reason for it!! The NGK 6510 might be a colder plug, but it comes as a .043" strap-to-tip gap... which means you must BEND the strap closer to the electrode tip to get the proper ZL1 gap of .024-.026" gap for a supercharged/boosted fueled ignition. When most do this, they use a tool that can put a microscopic dent, scratch or etched mark on the plug's strap which begins a localized "hot spot" and lets add that such a bend will now direct the spark's ignition TOWARDS the base of the strap! Once the thermal runaway of iridium takes place, its game over and since it is indeed a harder material surrounded by softer materials, it will do some damage, while slight... is still damage!

BUT WAIT... There's MORE!!
While iridium is resistant to most chemicals, it reacts with oxygen (this compound takes over when running lean) and fluorine (used as part of the refining process to make gasoline) at high temperatures, can form volatile oxides as it is mixed with incoming oxygen and accelerated by the use of Methanol. This chemical chain-reaction creates molten sodium cyanide and potassium cyanide which will attack iridium at high temperatures.

The use of Rhodium is similar with results, is a very robust and rare metal, but the end results are damage to the engine once the chain reaction begins.

SO... WHY USE SILVER?

The same reason we have "Smart Coils", computers and the ability to read the codes so we can FIX THE CAUSE, NOT THE SYMPTOMS!

The Silver plugs will melt at a temperature 1,761º, just beyond that of the pistons we hope to keep in check which if uncoated will begin melting at 1,220º... however, during a knock or detonation, the electrode can be accelerated by all the aforementioned oxides created by the combustion process to light off instantly and since that silver electrode is sacrificial by design, it does no lasting damage to the pistons, cylinders, valve or head as it exits the exhaust port as a gas vapor before triggering your Smart Coil to a misfire instantly. A knowledgable Tuner will go back to the tables and modifiers after just replacing the plug and not a valve or worse!

So now you know the physics of why you use Silver... also note that its conductivity of the energy is the lowest resistance just behind Gold plating. Having this resistance means your Smart Coils can read the energy use for modifying spark dwell timing and report back to the ECU the condition of the cylinder's mixture capability to be completely burned.

Add the factor of the BRISK Spark Plugs come at the necessary ZL1 gap of .026" instead of .043", means you can check them for gap but in most situations not damage the strap by most gap procedures to reign in nearly half it's dimension.

Apply a light bit of Anti-Seize on the threads not entering the chamber and realize you've done something to keep your engine safer with better communication with the ECU and your Tuner. Since running the Brisk plugs for over a year and thousands of track miles, I have zero misfires and have logged over 10K miles on a single set of plugs with no degradation in power or performance.

Well said David! I agree with you on everything!

+ on the anti-seize
+ on the smaller gap
+ on the benefits for the Brisk Silver vs. NGK

I think the RR14S is great in the 550-750rwhp range, and then suggest the RR12S on the 750-1,000rwhp range. As always, consult your tuner.
Having quality wires, with heat shields goes along way, along with a healthy amount of dielectric grease on the coil and plug connection.

I know the temperate range comparison is tricky between brands, so I drafted up a quick reference guide. This is also posted on my website.

I know gap is a contested argument even amongst reputable tuners, and there are pro's and con's to a higher gap. I personally use .026"

I know plenty of cars running .024 - .030 in my power level.

It's clear that a smaller gap helps at higher boost to hedge against blow out and high RPM misfire. With the trade-off perhaps being weaker ignition during cold starts and low speed cruising.

There is always a trade off, and I prefer to error on the side of caution when RPM's are high, especially at higher boost levels.

Anyway, great conversation. Hopefully this helps more make the switch, and create happier LT4's along the way.
Use discount code FREE-BRISK to get a free set of Brisk Racing Silver Spark Plugs (RR14s or RR12s) when you spend $1,000 or more at www.griffin-motorsports.com

Mr. Ted... Would love to hear your experience, I recall you preferring gaps in the .030 and higher range?