[ChadSZL1]

I would say with a 9.17 lower and a JMS booster you should be able to run E45 safely. I should know here in a few weeks.

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by ChadSZL1

I would say with a 9.17 lower and a JMS booster you should be able to run E45 safely. I should know here in a few weeks.

I think that's going to be too much ethanol. Keep us posted. Who's tuning it?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by KamZL1

Well I'm in between a rock and a hard place the more I research and look in this forum. Is E just that much cut and dry better than doing pulley and staying on 93? it doesn't erode fuel system? how is it better for your engine if it demands so much more fueling? It seems like a clear either or situation between going e and pulley and I do not know which way to go

Anyone who is switching between 93 and E-60

Like I said above burning better fuel is always a win win.

Our systems are designed from the ground up to run E fuels there is no down side other than fuel economy for commuting.

Ted.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

Ted since my stock blower is already ported, if I switch back to a stock lower pulley, what is the max ethanol I would be ale to run and where do you estimate the rwhp would be with a Rotofab Big Gulp, ported blower, NW 103mm TB, 2" Kooks headers and no cats? I'm not chasing dyno numbers, just curious though. Currently its at 697whp STD with a 9.45 lower pulley on 93 octane with the mods listed above.

I see a little knock at full throttle, up to 4 degrees on occasion.

I would expect somewhere around E-50 providing your calibration is done right and targeting and achieving about Lambda .84

But only logging will tell for sure.

I promise your not making 697 RWHP on the street and when it pulls 4 degrees which is a direct result from spinning the blower too fast and too much boost for pump gas.

You will have a much happier more consistent combination for sure.

Ted.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by CW3SF

Thanks Ted. This certainly validates my build. I have been pursuing stock pulley and max ethanol with my build and will continue as far as it the fuel system allows.

You are welcome!

Originally Posted by Evansa22

Would a new tune be needed to drop from 8% with ported blower to stock pulley or even 2.5% underdrive pulley? I know flex sensor should accommodate for increase in e but not sure about adjustment in boost

Any changes mechanical should be retuned, I can certainly help you with that if you like.

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Just to clarify a few things. I did some testing with my Whipple 2.9 a couple weeks back. I went from my 3.25 pulley, E40, 18 degrees of timing back to my 3.5 pulley, E65, 20 degrees of timing and the car slowed down by 2mph in the 1/8 mi. The car was still faster with less E, less timing, and more boost because the boost is still really efficient.

What Jannetty is referring to is the Stock 1.74 supercharger. It's close to max efficiency with stock pulleys. So a pulley is creating more heat and shifting power curve to the left. If you port the supercharger you made it more efficient and that will allow the smaller pulley to work better. Jannetty hasn't tested ported stock superchargers the last I seen so he likely won't comment on that. I believe his position on the subject is to invest in a larger unit before spending money on porting...not agreeing nor disagreeing on that. It's been proven by other shops that porting the 1.74 works so that is up to the end user to decide.

Yes I am.

I do also have experience with ported blowers and honestly they are not that much better unless your on the dyno chasing numbers, Icing it down, for that glory number.

The intercoolers with in the supercharger can not handle the additional heat loading for any period of time past about 5 seconds.

The dyno is a great sales tool when used wrong.

Ted.

[ChadSZL1]

What would be the next upgrade to Teds 125 road race package if you wanted another 75-100 RWHP? I know the cam and 2650 make around 840 ish according to Ted. But what could you do to see around 730-750 tire?

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by ChadSZL1

What would be the next upgrade to Teds 125 road race package if you wanted another 75-100 RWHP? I know the cam and 2650 make around 840 ish according to Ted. But what could you do to see around 730-750 tire?

Heads/Cam....Probably be low 700's on stock boost with 93. If you do +30 injectors and low side then you could probably run E85 without mixing(barring it's not station that has unusually high E content) on stock boost and make consistent 750-760whp. You might even get away with E40-50 on stock fueling with bigger fuel lobe cam.

[ChadSZL1]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Heads/Cam....Probably be low 700's on stock boost with 93. If you do +30 injectors and low side then you could probably run E85 without mixing(barring it's not station that has unusually high E content) on stock boost and make consistent 750-760whp. You might even get away with E40-50 on stock fueling with bigger fuel lobe cam.

Ya I was thinking cam with fuel lobe, and a 15% lower using E40-E45 with the jms fuel booster. Maybe see around 715-730 tire. Wanting to see 9s at the track. With drag pack and tcm tune. Possible?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by ChadSZL1

What would be the next upgrade to Teds 125 road race package if you wanted another 75-100 RWHP? I know the cam and 2650 make around 840 ish according to Ted. But what could you do to see around 730-750 tire?

Our Terminator Cam and 2650 blower is the smart way.

Cam and heavily modified stock blower is the other which just does not make sense to me, the money you will spend on porting, big throttle body and pulleys plus it would be a dyno queen and not real power you can carry to the street, or track

I was on the dyno last night with a stock long block LT1 1LE we did our terminator package on, it made 764 RWHP on pump gas needless to say I was a bit blown away, since the car made 727 RWHP when we originally built it during the summer. We had crazy good air last night.

[ChadSZL1]

Thanks Ted for the response! So if you had to do it in steps I would assume you would suggest to do the cam? What kind of RWHP would that add? Then later add the blower. That sounds like a great plan!

[BlaqWhole]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Our Terminator Cam and 2650 blower is the smart way.

Cam and heavily modified stock blower is the other which just does not make sense to me, the money you will spend on porting, big throttle body and pulleys plus it would be a dyno queen and not real power you can carry to the street, or track

I was on the dyno last night with a stock long block LT1 1LE we did our terminator package on, it made 764 RWHP on pump gas needless to say I was a bit blown away, since the car made 727 RWHP when we originally built it during the summer. We had crazy good air last night.

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

I do also have experience with ported blowers and honestly they are not that much better unless your on the dyno chasing numbers, Icing it down, for that glory number.

The intercoolers with in the supercharger can not handle the additional heat loading for any period of time past about 5 seconds.

The dyno is a great sales tool when used wrong.

Ted.

This exactly.

[BlaqWhole]

Originally Posted by ChadSZL1

Thanks Ted for the response! So if you had to do it in steps I would assume you would suggest to do the cam? What kind of RWHP would that add? Then later add the blower. That sounds like a great plan!

I personally would not do it in stages. I think it is better to save up and do it all in one shot. But if I did do it in stages then I would get the cam, ported heads, and LTs out of the way first as those all are the most labor intensive installs. Once you get to the cam you might was well just also go ahead and take the heads off and once you take the heads off you might as well just go ahead and do the LTs. From there I would not even bother porting or pulleying the blower since the goal is to replace it anyway. Lastly I would do the blower, any fuel mods, and suspension mods, a chiller if in the budget (not necessary tho), and any other supporting mods (gauges etc).

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by ChadSZL1

Thanks Ted for the response! So if you had to do it in steps I would assume you would suggest to do the cam? What kind of RWHP would that add? Then later add the blower. That sounds like a great plan!

Originally Posted by BlaqWhole

I personally would not do it in stages. I think it is better to save up and do it all in one shot. But if I did do it in stages then I would get the cam, ported heads, and LTs out of the way first as those all are the most labor intensive installs. Once you get to the cam you might was well just also go ahead and take the heads off and once you take the heads off you might as well just go ahead and do the LTs. From there I would not even bother porting or pulleying the blower since the goal is to replace it anyway. Lastly I would do the blower, any fuel mods, and suspension mods, a chiller if in the budget (not necessary tho), and any other supporting mods (gauges etc).

Agreed, Each stage requires a full tuning session, and these are not LS1s LOL

We have to tune, VE, TQ, and MAF so it's like tuning the car 3 times per session.

Ted.

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Agreed, Each stage requires a full tuning session, and these are not LS1s LOL

We have to tune, VE, TQ, and MAF so it's like tuning the car 3 times per session.

Ted.

Thanks for the feedback Ted, I may go back to a stock lower pulley at some point, install a flex fuel sensor. I assume at that point you could activate the flex sensor and remote tune it. it already has all other bolt-ons.