[G.Maro.ZL1]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

I must say I'm still bewildered why a person buys a Zl1 and gets rid of the PD blower to add twin or single turbos. I love turbos and probably the coolest to watch at the drag strip but why start out with a 65000 Zl1. Start out with a Camaro that's sometimes half the price. I know everyone will say its a forged motor, yes it is but the Camaro Lt1 is also forged except for the piston and its pretty cost effected to change those to forged drop ins. So instead of having 85,000 in a Camaro Zl1 you have 50 or 55k in a Camaro SS that's lighter in weight by a 100 lbs or so. Your just going to get killed on resale and the Zl1 is really holding its value right now as well is the Camaro SS. Believe me I know what it costs to build one of these Camaro's so I'm very familiar with the cost of changing the fuel systems, short blocks, heads etc. and what is required to make one go fast. Just my 2 cents which sometimes isn't worth anything.

Sometimes not everything and every decision is driven by money, as for the ZL1 only paid about 23k and some change with taxes (won the vehicle in a giveaway). Won’t say which would like to remain anonymous. Your 0.02 is probably right but I just don’t care and I just want to build! Its not everyday you come across a stock sc car that isn’t no longer sc and that in itself is good enough for me

[dbs1]

Double post

[dbs1]

Did something similar with a supercharged truck, pulling the sc and replaced with a turbo. Dropped a second at the track, twice as expensive as I was promised and ruined the drive ability, towing and fuel economy and would just quit running for no reason and had to wait for an hour to cool down to start.

Wasted a lot of $ on that to be different, but to each their own.That was a tough lesson!

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by G.Maro.ZL1

How to tell/know that specific cam is 32%+ fuel lobe? As I am only doing the cam for air/fueling reasons which the stock cam can’t provide enough.

Fuel lobe % is advertised on cam specs.

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by G.Maro.ZL1

Sometimes not everything and every decision is driven by money, as for the ZL1 only paid about 23k and some change with taxes (won the vehicle in a giveaway). Won’t say which would like to remain anonymous. Your 0.02 is probably right but I just don’t care and I just want to build! Its not everyday you come across a stock sc car that isn’t no longer sc and that in itself is good enough for me

Cool, go for it as others have, just laying out some thoughts and if I'd only paid 23k for that car I probably wouldn't leave it stock either. Heck of a deal and congrats on winning. Twins will be wicked if you get everything figured out with the install and the tuning. Gets pretty cold where you live so you'll have all winter to work on it. Keep us up on your progress.

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by G.Maro.ZL1

And if you don’t mind what do the cam specs stand for? (Sorry am definitely still green)

Since they did not address this part:

224/230 is the duration, meaning how long the valve is open in degrees of crankshaft rotation. First number would be intake valve and the second would be exhaust.

115 is the lobe separation angle, commonly referred to as LSA.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by G.Maro.ZL1

Which would you choose out of the two? And for both those Cams are they 32%+ fuel lobe? And if you don’t mind what do the cam specs stand for? (Sorry am definitely still green)

Daily driver the 224/230, weekend car the 227/233. Yes they have a bigger fuel lobe. They rate their cam lobe in lift which is .308 and I believe that comes out around 36%(don't quote me).

Here is a good read. It was written around LS1 stuff but the info still is relevant just don't pay any attention to the brands of parts and specs.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...cam-guide.html


Generally speaking with forced induction you don't need a lot of cam to make more power. You really only need the fuel lobe. Many tend to over cam their engines. I would keep overlap around 3 degrees or less. Too much overlap reduces the efficiency of the power adder as it bleeds off boost and you have to spin the compressor harder to make that loss back up which creates more heat. For NA application it's the opposite and the positive overlap helps make more power. As overlap increases idle quality and low speed power suffers. You make that back up to some degree by increasing compression. Forced induction applications generally work a little better with wider LSA anywhere from 115-120 degrees. NA stuff is usually around 110-114 but again it all depends on the application. Most cams with a 110 LSA are going chop really hard, where something with a 116 LSA will generally idle smoother if the duration specs on both cams are equal. Now that doesn't mean a cam with a 116 lsa will not chop. Overlap contributes to the sound of the cam and almost any cam with positive overlap will have a noticeable idle. I would say 0-3 degrees of overlap will produce a nice mild lope, 4-8 degrees will chop pretty hard, and anything above 8 degrees is going to be slapping pretty hard.

The 227/233 115 has 0 degrees of overlap. So it will have a mild lope/ slight chop. That being said most proper Turbo builds do not sound choppy and I would never select a cam based on sound.

[Dan82679]

Call CSP and tell them what your looking for in the twin turbo build and they will qive an estimate and cost if they don't try to push you in a different direction. They have done the install before so they know what to expect.

[laynlo15]

My last one in the Camaro with the Lt4 short block was BTR stage 2 if I remember correctly. Little less lift and duration then I had with the Manley short block and Livernois Cam.

[G.Maro.ZL1]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Daily driver the 224/230, weekend car the 227/233. Yes they have a bigger fuel lobe. They rate their cam lobe in lift which is .308 and I believe that comes out around 36%(don't quote me).

Here is a good read. It was written around LS1 stuff but the info still is relevant just don't pay any attention to the brands of parts and specs.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...cam-guide.html


Generally speaking with forced induction you don't need a lot of cam to make more power. You really only need the fuel lobe. Many tend to over cam their engines. I would keep overlap around 3 degrees or less. Too much overlap reduces the efficiency of the power adder as it bleeds off boost and you have to spin the compressor harder to make that loss back up which creates more heat. For NA application it's the opposite and the positive overlap helps make more power. As overlap increases idle quality and low speed power suffers. You make that back up to some degree by increasing compression. Forced induction applications generally work a little better with wider LSA anywhere from 115-120 degrees. NA stuff is usually around 110-114 but again it all depends on the application. Most cams with a 110 LSA are going chop really hard, where something with a 116 LSA will generally idle smoother if the duration specs on both cams are equal. Now that doesn't mean a cam with a 116 lsa will not chop. Overlap contributes to the sound of the cam and almost any cam with positive overlap will have a noticeable idle. I would say 0-3 degrees of overlap will produce a nice mild lope, 4-8 degrees will chop pretty hard, and anything above 8 degrees is going to be slapping pretty hard.

The 227/233 115 has 0 degrees of overlap. So it will have a mild lope/ slight chop. That being said most proper Turbo builds do not sound choppy and I would never select a cam based on sound.

Thanks man your post really cleared things up! Appreciate it definitely still green with comes to those minute specs & details.

[GAOLDGUY]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

No to the Hellion and No to the TSP cam kit

I would go with the Huron speed mid mount.

The cam would kit come from Cam motion.

For the intake manifold you have a couple options. Frankenstein, Tre, and Procharger.

Hi KingLT1, I've read many of your posts and realize you are in the know so this is meant with absolutely no disrespect. Why do you say "No" to the Hellion kit? I've read a good bit about that kit and thought it to be well engineered.

[Choda]

talk to the person who is tuning it and the company your buying the turbo kit from for cam advice.

go right with the fore triple intank pump. That will support either staying with only DI or adding port.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by GAOLDGUY

Hi KingLT1, I've read many of your posts and realize you are in the know so this is meant with absolutely no disrespect. Why do you say "No" to the Hellion kit? I've read a good bit about that kit and thought it to be well engineered.

Because the turbo(s) placement is not ideal for heat extraction. There isn't much room for the turbos as is and you end up needing to heat wrap everything to the point the engine bay looks like it came from NASA. Look up Nick Wrights(Guitarmageddon on YT) old ZL1 that had a Hellion kit. The guy that bought it took the car to LMP to address a lot of issues.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Because the turbo(s) placement is not ideal for heat extraction. There isn't much room for the turbos as is and you end up needing to heat wrap everything to the point the engine bay looks like it came from NASA. Look up Nick Wrights(Guitarmageddon on YT) old ZL1 that had a Hellion kit. The guy that bought it took the car to LMP to address a lot of issues.

I've heard the same thing about the underhood heat issues with Hellion. I reached out to them because I was considering a twin turbo kit but they had very few answers for me... never a good sign... I'd definitely do Huron if I went twin turbo.