[epik_leprikon]

Can anyone confirm if there are any issues with VVT2 and stock torque converter? My shop said going to a VVT3/4 would require a different torque converter, but a VVT2 should be fine, but now I'm nervous heading into install!

[ChadFarr]

Originally Posted by epik_leprikon

Can anyone confirm if there are any issues with VVT2 and stock torque converter? My shop said going to a VVT3/4 would require a different torque converter, but a VVT2 should be fine, but now I'm nervous heading into install!

That is correct. VVT-2 still gives you a stock ride when stopping. VVT-3/4 would require a stall change.

[epik_leprikon]

Originally Posted by ChadFarr

That is correct. VVT-2 still gives you a stock ride when stopping. VVT-3/4 would require a stall change.

Awesome. Thanks!

[Drsagacity]

Since you are looking at this for a Z, why not just contact Jannetty (forum vendor) and get a package for everything you need? I just installed his rough idle cam and love it. He also has a smooth idle cam...

[Inkedmongo]

Originally Posted by Drsagacity

Since you are looking at this for a Z, why not just contact Jannetty (forum vendor) and get a package for everything you need? I just installed his rough idle cam and love it. He also has a smooth idle cam...

Aye! I have a cam kit for sale =x Just sayin.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by USP45

Well, I am not someone to tell someone that they are wrong because I do not know everything, and there may be a way, but a cam install on one of these engines is going to run more than $1,000... Here is my build thread where I just did heads/cam on my 17 ZL1.

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=500829

In my opinion (FWIW) there is really no way to do a cam in this platform, reliably at least, without pulling the engine. Now that is not to say someone will not try, and they may even succeed, but it would be a crap shoot. You CANNOT get the timing chain off without removing the oil pump. Cannot get pump off without dropping pan. Pan is sealed on and it would be very, very hard to drop it enough to clean the surfaces well enough to ensure a good seal and then there is a great chance that bits and pieces of sealant would drop in the pan. Other issue will be that there is not enough room to pull cam out the front without removing radiator which is in turn connected to all of the heat exchangers in front of it.... which means cracking open a/c and removing all of it.

My initial intentions were to do everything with engine in the car but after taking things apart and looking it very quickly became apparent that pulling the engine was the only way to go. Hence you will not get it done for a grand. But I've been wrong once or twice before.

I did drop my pan, by loosening the 6 bolts on the cross member, I took the 2nolts off my bmr mounts jack engine up put 2x4s between mount and crossmember... gun the pan off

Chain can com off gear so you don’t have to remove pan don’t pin the tensioner, as there is more slack not pinned for removal

I took out my condenser but for 2017 up the r1234yf freon will tear you anew hole,radiator was a pain get the tool to remove the gum spring clamps

There are guys that just drop the condenser
OP wanted cam sounds there are big compcam vvt compatible cams, yes they are down hp, but should be gentle on valve train

I have m6 so don’t know how big you can go with stock verter.

OP, I’d go comp cam vvt mild springs go with a mid duration grind and tune,no need to pull head