[sr71bb]

Ok track day sunrise ECR Decatur Tx i will flip these pictures the right way when i get home to a desktop PC. GEEZ!!’n

[sr71bb]

I have been asked what I carry in the tire trailer that is pictured above and here is list:

4 Mounted Apex EC-7 ET25 wheels 18 x 11 with Michelin N3 30 65 18 slicks
2 SPARE Michelin UNMOUNTED slicks N3 compound 30 65 18 tires
5 jugs of E85 fuel holding roughly 28 gallons of fuel
1 SPARE trailer tire/wheel rated at 82MPH
Tools and FLOOR JACk in front mounted tool box

Note: The car EATS about 10 gallons of E85 per 30 minute track session and car starts out from home with 19 gallons in tank and arrives usually with around 14 gallons left in tank.

The trailer fully loaded weighs about 650 pounds and I can get about 14 MPG pulling it at 75MPH highway cruising speed. I installed a CLASS 1 hitch on the car to be able to pull the trailer. It takes me ABOUT 40 minutes to change over from the stock wheels and tires you see on the car to the slicks. I also change out the FRONT brake pads to a 3.12 compound from a Ferodo 2500 street pad compound. This whole process is repeated at the end of the track day.

This trailer started out life as a NORTHEN TOOL aluminum trailer that I bought from another TRACK RAT that carried his Miata track tires on it. I modified it to carry our size tires and then added some fuel jug containers to it so I could carry 5 fuel jugs (he carried TWO in it prior) I installed D-RING type straps to secure the tires securely to the trailer. I also changed out the trailer tires to a speed rating of 82MPH from the dinky assed 65 MPH rating that he had on it.

Why E85 you might ask??? Well ONE it has a cooling effect which is beneficial on the track especially and TWO, I have a 14:1 compression ratio LME NA 416CI engine in the car. The car will run OK with 93 but just not at the same power level or efficiency. As long as the E85 is 75% alcohol content or above the car gets full timing and power . The E85 I buy from KROGER is consistently E77 or E78 (I have a AEROSPACE gauge in the car that monitors THAT amongst other things).

[sr71bb]

Well with this last saturday's temperatures around 100 degrees, the new tranny cooler (a ZL1 piece) was apparently a worthwhile upgrade. The MAX tranny temp I saw was around 219 Degrees while on track. The max water temp I saw was around 212 degrees. The hood cooling vents that I installed seemed to do their job as well.

When we did the tranny fluid change PRIOR to this track day we observed that the fluid was black and there was some trans clutch material at the bottom of the tranny pan. I take alot of pride in preparing this car but in this case I could tell that I SHOULD have changed this fluid MUCH MUCH sooner.

So bascially I *ucked up in this regard. Reccomended intervals are roughly EVERY 30K miles and more frequently if the car is heavy use (which this one is obviously).

ON the way back from the track, the tranny began slipping so we are replacing it with a NEW one from GM HIGH PERFORMANACE parts. So the bottom line is dont make a dumb assed mistake like I did and I would suggest that under heavy track use , perhaps a change every 10K miles would be prudent.

[Christian1LE]

At least for a manual 1LE the change interval for the transmission fluid is every 15 track hours. Should not be anywhere near 10k miles. Not sure how this applies to automatic.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by Christian1LE

At least for a manual 1LE the change interval for the transmission fluid is every 15 track hours. Should not be anywhere near 10k miles. Not sure how this applies to automatic.

Well I have been looking for more documentation on this A10 interval. NORMAL interval is change every 60-100K miles. Then I saw that HEAVY use calls for every 30K miles . I do know you have to change out fluid more often on the manuals that on the autos. I am SURE it has to do with the fact that these A10s take about 14 quarts of tranny fluid is the main reason the interval is longer. This car has roughly 45K miles on it and if I assume that the fluid has NEVER been changed since new; then the fluid probably did better than expected really.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

Well I have been looking for more documentation on this A10 interval. NORMAL interval is change every 60-100K miles. Then I saw that HEAVY use calls for every 30K miles . I do know you have to change out fluid more often on the manuals that on the autos. I am SURE it has to do with the fact that these A10s take about 14 quarts of tranny fluid is the main reason the interval is longer. This car has roughly 45K miles on it and if I assume that the fluid has NEVER been changed since new; then the fluid probably did better than expected really.

It's in the high performance supplement that came with your car:


https://gf-css-files-production.s3-e...22MAY27_HI.pdf

And the track prep guide:

https://www.chevrolet.com/content/da...ackPREP-R3.pdf

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

It's in the high performance supplement that came with your car:


https://gf-css-files-production.s3-e...22MAY27_HI.pdf

And the track prep guide:

https://www.chevrolet.com/content/da...ackPREP-R3.pdf

Well that supplement unfortunately wasnt in my car when I purchased it used from the dealer. I was lucky to get the owner manual. LOL

Anyhow, thanks for your post though.

I found it online in the link below as well. The one below is specifically for a 2019 but it looks identical to the 2023 guide link you posted up in your post Looks like every 15 hours is the recommended interval on trans oil changes for track usage. For me personally thats roughly every four months assuming 3 track days a month. I have been keeping all this in my head, but a track log book with hours noted probably is not a bad idea.

https://camarofest.org/uploads/3/4/3...prep-guide.pdf

I will say though that the alignment settings that GM states are much too conservative in the supplement. Part of that though is due to the fact that you cant get the -3.8 degrees front camber and -2.9 degrees rear camber that I typically run without the use of aftermarket parts like Vorshlag camber plates on the front and SPLPARTS for the rear. Slicks like as much negative camber as you can throw at them.

[Christian1LE]

My fluid does come out perfectly clean and looks brand new after 15 track hours. But it's easy enough to change in my car so I'll keep doing it.

[sr71bb]

Just installed TRUFIBER carbon fiber bezel around HUD. PICS below is what it looks like looking thru the front windshield from outside the car. the SMALLER carbon fiber piece that is in FRONT of the HUD bezel is a CARBONADDONS piece.

[h018871]

Something else, the diff fluid should be changed every 24 hours of track time.

This is something you can do to make the trans fluid changes easier, safer and a lot less messy. The fluid is HOT when you pull it out and check it.
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...&postcount=114

Also note that the trans filter bolts are single use.
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=61

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by h018871

Something else, the diff fluid should be changed every 24 hours of track time.

This is something you can do to make the trans fluid changes easier, safer and a lot less messy. The fluid is HOT when you pull it out and check it.
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...&postcount=114

Also note that the trans filter bolts are single use.
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=61

Great info thanks!!! I couldnt find the interval anywhere on the rear end oil so 20 hours is good to know for sure!!!

Appreciate it!!!

[h018871]

[sr71bb]

OK Yesterday along with a brand new A10 tranny, AMP installed a MIGHTY MOUSE breather tank on my car. For those unaware, the purpose of the tank is to vent the engine to relieve some of the crankcase pressure that if unchecked can push the oil past the rings resulting in oil residue in the manifold area as well as fouling out plugs.

Typically you see these on higher HP supercharged cars but since I have 14:1 compression and typically see sustained RPMs of 4500 - 5000 even on the slower parts of a road course; then we felt it prudent even on my NA 416 stroker motor.

I have another SCCA TIME TRIAL race coming up on the 12th of this month so I will be putting about 300 easy miles on this new tranny before then.

As you can tell from the length of this thread, I am just about to the end of the rainbow with the modifications on this car. It is pretty much EXACTLY the way I want it. If it were JUST a track car and NOT a daily driver, I would put MORE AERO pieces on it but thats just not practical for DD purpose.

NEXT mod will be to put more XPEL PPF on the nose of the car and in the area just BEFORE the back wheels.

PICS BELOW

[sr71bb]

Well I have tried to be completely transparent about this build. I have disclosed the things I think I messed up on as well as those things I think turned out to be GREAT.

I have also been told I can break a hammer in a sand box and typically I would have to say that is true. I push parts to their extreme limits and beyond and I have posted up the circumstances behind some of those failures.

As documented I purchased a LME (Late Model Engines) 416 Stroker Motor to replace the SECOND STOCK motor that grenaded at the track (specs on engine are disclosed in the earlier posts on this thread). This engine was as bullet proof as one could make an NA engine in my opinion and I purchased it APRIL 2022. The reason I chose LME was I have no doubt in my mind they are the best in the business.

I will also say that I would not hesitate to buy another engine from them and this piston failure was in no way related to ANYTHING they did. The pistons used in this build were MAHLE 13:1 - 14:1 forged domed pistons.

Anyhow as I documented in a few posts earlier, I had AMP put a MIGHTY MOUSE catch can on this engine at the same time that the new A10 tranny was installed.

I noticed I was getting some smoke thru this vent under acceleration a few days ago. These vents will typically smoke some at idle but really should NOT emit smoke under acceleration.

Anyhow, in getting on the throttle today I was getting quite alot of BLOWBY and enough crankcase pressure to slightly unseat the dipstick.

Anyhow I took the car to AMP and they suspected a crack piston. So COMPRESSION tests were done on all cylinders and the readings were VERY consistent in the range of 255 to 265 EXCEPT for piston ONE which showed ZERO.

Next step was they took an orthoscope camera and looked down thru the spark plug hole and saw that there was a hairline crack in the TOP of that piston. The PISTON LOOKS to be intact so they will be taking the heads off to make sure there isnt any cylinder wall damage.

I guess the moral of this story even if you do EVERYTHING in your power to have reliable high powered car, things do happen and that's really not an unexpected result if you PUSH these cars to the limit and beyond which I certainly DO.

Assuming this piston is in stock, this should all be back together within a week or so assuming no machining is required.