[jlaudio11]

It seems like people love or hate these. I'm considering replacing my 6510's with them as well. Anybody know how the comparable heat ranges?

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by jlaudio11

It seems like people love or hate these. I'm considering replacing my 6510's with them as well. Anybody know how the comparable heat ranges?

I think the 6510 would be RR12S equivalent. I ended up going with the RR10S to go even a tick cooler so we’ll see how that goes and I’ll let you guys know.

[clg82]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

I think the 6510 would be RR12S equivalent. I ended up going with the RR10S to go even a tick cooler so we’ll see how that goes and I’ll let you guys know.

What made you decide to go with these Josh?

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by clg82

What made you decide to go with these Josh?

I watched my buddy’s Gen3 Coyote (making similar power to my Camaro) nuke his plugs while at the strip with me. He melted the ground strap right off his 6510 NGK. Now he had a couple of other things going on so his build isn’t quite apples to apples (12:1 compression, too restrictive exhaust, etc)…but it was enough to make me think about doing something else lol

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by clg82

Actually I've noticed that as well, never get a code (knock on wood) but do hear a slight misfire on cold startup. I wonder why that is.

No CEL here either. I just chalk it up to the Ethanol and colder plug. I probably have the idle coming down a little too soon as well. It's common to lower the idle rpm in the cooler ECT areas so the engine idles quieter with exhaust mods.

[calypso50kid]

dyno tested the brisk d08s at the engine shop, there was no gain on my 1420 hp NA big block over a regular el cheapo NGK 5671a-10

[clg82]

Originally Posted by calypso50kid

dyno tested the brisk d08s at the engine shop, there was no gain on my 1420 hp NA big block over a regular el cheapo NGK 5671a-10

People actually buy spark plugs for horsepower gains?

[calypso50kid]

Originally Posted by clg82

People actually buy spark plugs for horsepower gains?

Absolutely, ive seen people claim 20 hp on these plugs in a all out racing app. I called BS on them said buy me a set ill prove you wrong.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by clg82

People actually buy spark plugs for horsepower gains?

I would not. The proper plug is the proper plug… not something you will see add power unless you can change the gap or something like that. But, the wrong plug can certainly cause some serious issues.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by calypso50kid

Absolutely, ive seen people claim 20 hp on these plugs in a all out racing app. I called BS on them said buy me a set ill prove you wrong.

only 20hp ? thats lame... I gained 35rwhp alone!!!






J/K, like Josh said. you could easily make more power if replacing a faulty plug. Quality / cooler spark plugs should not be seen as a power adder, but as an effort to use the best parts to support your power reliability and efficiency.

Don't forget, each order comes with a free Brisk Sticker!

[Smokin19]

Been using these for 6 years, no problem.

[Xelor]

What model Brisk for a stock 2022 ZL1 ?

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by Xelor

What model Brisk for a stock 2022 ZL1 ?

The Brisk RR14S will be what works well for your ZL1.

Grab a Drink or maybe a Snack as I dive deep into WHY Brisk plugs are the best and the reason I shared this info with Gabe a year ago to solve a misfire issue I had when first racing my car. It was this revelation which lead me onto the path of cooling and removal of the OEM oil cooler by determination to "Remedy the Source of the Issues and Not the Symptoms!"

Silver Plugs have a better conductivity of energy VS any other element, including Copper... this is why all Marine wire is "Silver Tinned" to reduce heat and increase conductivity with better corrosion protection, or in Aircraft... all wires are Silver with a white flameproof insulation and zero copper so a thinner gauge wire can be used to transmit the same current to keep the AC weight as low as possible. Many Decades ago, the history of this plug company dates way back before Lamborghini spec'd them for their production engines as well as others like Ferrari, Pagani and higher powered Mercedes/AMG brands.

Iridium and Platinum plugs belong in Toyota Camrys, where the goal is to run 100k miles between maintenance schedules... not anywhere near a racing engine that is fine-tuned for it's usage/abuse and a thumb on the button of destruction.

Its a joke that so many start with the NGKs 6510 that is an iridium fine wire with a melting point >4400º where everything else around it begins melting at 1600º!! If you know someone who has ping'd their engine and melted the strap off the plug, there's a really good reason for it!! The NGK 6510 might be a colder plug, but it comes as a .043" strap-to-tip gap... which means you must BEND the strap closer to the electrode tip to get the proper ZL1 gap of .024-.026" gap for a supercharged/boosted fueled ignition. When most do this, they use a tool that can put a microscopic dent, scratch or etched mark on the plug's strap which begins a localized "hot spot" and lets add that such a bend will now direct the spark's ignition TOWARDS the base of the strap! Once the thermal runaway of iridium takes place, its game over and since it is indeed a harder material surrounded by softer materials, it will do some damage, while slight... is still damage!

BUT WAIT... There's MORE!!
While iridium is resistant to most chemicals, it reacts with oxygen (this compound takes over when running lean) and fluorine (used as part of the refining process to make gasoline) at high temperatures, can form volatile oxides as it is mixed with incoming oxygen and accelerated by the use of Methanol. This chemical chain-reaction creates molten sodium cyanide and potassium cyanide which will attack iridium at high temperatures.

The use of Rhodium is similar with results, is a very robust and rare metal, but the end results are damage to the engine once the chain reaction begins.

SO... WHY USE SILVER?

The same reason we have "Smart Coils", computers and the ability to read the codes so we can FIX THE CAUSE, NOT THE SYMPTOMS!

The Silver plugs will melt at a temperature 1,761º, just beyond that of the pistons we hope to keep in check which if uncoated will begin melting at 1,220º... however, during a knock or detonation, the electrode can be accelerated by all the aforementioned oxides created by the combustion process to light off instantly and since that silver electrode is sacrificial by design, it does no lasting damage to the pistons, cylinders, valve or head as it exits the exhaust port as a gas vapor before triggering your Smart Coil to a misfire instantly. A knowledgable Tuner will go back to the tables and modifiers after just replacing the plug and not a valve or worse!

So now you know the physics of why you use Silver... also note that its conductivity of the energy is the lowest resistance just behind Gold plating. Having this resistance means your Smart Coils can read the energy use for modifying spark dwell timing and report back to the ECU the condition of the cylinder's mixture capability to be completely burned.

Add the factor of the BRISK Spark Plugs come at the necessary ZL1 gap of .026" instead of .043", means you can check them for gap but in most situations not damage the strap by most gap procedures to reign in nearly half it's dimension.

Apply a light bit of Anti-Seize on the threads not entering the chamber and realize you've done something to keep your engine safer with better communication with the ECU and your Tuner. Since running the Brisk plugs for over a year and thousands of track miles, I have zero misfires and have logged over 10K miles on a single set of plugs with no degradation in power or performance.

[SpeZ]

2017 workshop manual says .037-.043" gap on stock LT4.
I am at 14.5 psi, .037" gap with the NGK 6510 and have zero issues wether cold or on track.