[farrk007]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

I have a 100mm Solar up for grabs, if you PM me, and make an other! It worked great with my first round of mods!!! You probably want to consider a Roto Fab, or a Roto Fab Big Gulp (I have a big gulp up for grabs as well, the only thing wring with it is the logo got a bit of black paint on it so it doesn't "look" perfect. My build thread is here, I went from 100% stock to 800+ rwhp, with out opening the engine !

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=611982

Good luck on your journey, many users here really helped me get to where I'm at today !

Geez Sir!!! I cannot even think to get to 800whp with that car...especially with a manual...I'd eventually be happy with close to 7 at the wheels or even that "650" at the wheels, I just don't have the confidence in a manual like I used to. I'm going in to the shop early next shop to discuss options and if any of your offerings are suggested I'll definitely reach out. Thanks

[farrk007]

Originally Posted by LT4Greg

Farrk, I would start with a RotoFab intake and then decide on other mods. The only mod I have done is the RF Intake and that’s enough for me but it’s your car so do what makes you feel good. Good luck.

Thanks LT4Greg!!! looks like it might not take much to get just a bit more out of it.

[dfxrte]

Originally Posted by farrk007

Geez Sir!!! I cannot even think to get to 800whp with that car...especially with a manual...I'd eventually be happy with close to 7 at the wheels or even that "650" at the wheels, I just don't have the confidence in a manual like I used to. I'm going in to the shop early next shop to discuss options and if any of your offerings are suggested I'll definitely reach out. Thanks

at 665 wheel, i was just simply rotofab (regular), headers and upper pulley and a very moderate tune on 94 gas. manual as well. easy, clean, can quiet down the car with active exhaust, reliable

[SJFGTO]

FWIW, I would not do a smaller pulley without adding headers. An engine is a giant air pump and mods, to be effective, must work together. If you are spinning the blower faster you should increase the exhaust flow on the back side. Otherwise you are leaving quite a few ponies on the table for all that money spent just on a pulley & tune.

[farrk007]

Originally Posted by dfxrte

at 665 wheel, i was just simply rotofab (regular), headers and upper pulley and a very moderate tune on 94 gas. manual as well. easy, clean, can quiet down the car with active exhaust, reliable

NICE!!!

[farrk007]

Originally Posted by SJFGTO

FWIW, I would not do a smaller pulley without adding headers. An engine is a giant air pump and mods, to be effective, must work together. If you are spinning the blower faster you should increase the exhaust flow on the back side. Otherwise you are leaving quite a few ponies on the table for all that money spent just on a pulley & tune.

This makes sense, Thanks!

[Bangkok_ZL1]

If I was you (and have access to E-85), I would do what I did. Go to Ted Jennetty and get his 125 RWHP kit. I'm more than pleased with everything JRE did for me and I'm in Thailand. Extremely professional, they know their shit, and most importantly, way above board reputation of integrity. And I would do a stage 1 interchiller kit from F. I. Interchillers. If you watch the beginning of lethal garages video about him putting in an F.I. Interchiller, he shows you how temps on our ZL-1s are stupid high. This combination of Ted's kit, which emphasizes power through efficiency, coupled with the interchiller, takes heat issues out of the ZL-1 equation while making more power. Yes, it costs more than a simple pulley. But I must admit. The sound having FLHs, and hearing the intake with the rotofab, and the power (without timing being pulled because of heat), it's electrifying. I've been very very very pleased with the results of this set up. And I'll echo what another user said that convinced me to get the FLHs. When I start Miss America, she sounds like an angry Pit Bull. It's awesome. You won't regret these 2 mod kits.

[dfxrte]

Originally Posted by farrk007

NICE!!!

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

If all you want is 650whp, that is easy!! A RotoFab is great for extra noise and IMHO, the added hot air from the engine compartment for the power you are seeking is a negative as timing will be pulled from your engine due to just street driving, not tracking as you indicated.

If you cannot find E85 to blend, buy a plastic drum off Facebook Marketplace for $20, clean it out perfectly and drive somewhere with a truck and buy some. It only takes about 5-gallons per tank of 93-octane to begin making results. Once you get an E-tune for Flex-Fuel... everything else unlocks power exponentially.

Forget about a smaller pulley but definitely get an ATI Balancer and the aluminum lower pulley up to 9" to spin the stock blower a little faster and still keep the MATs within control. The difference in the lower pulley material going from solid steel to an ATI with an aluminum pulley makes your oil temps drop a bit since that heat from the exchangers is not soaked into the OEM pulley, your oil pump and also making the belt slip more.

Use the Brisk Silver plugs... they make the coils react faster to timing changes that affect dwell and discharge. This will help your engine compensate for its pathetic thermal variances which are also hurting your power by over-fueling the engine inaccurately across all the cylinders. Add Katech plug wires and this will help with removing the lack of energy which will cause a higher RPM under boost misfire... this is how to keep the engine HAPPY!

Reverse coolant flow for the Supercharger Heat exchanger. This will keep the bubbles out of your SC bricks and keep that timing steady that I keep referring to. All of these measures are simple... affect nothing internal to the engine and just like our Project Shocker, with full factory exhaust is still covered by the OEM Warranty while making 697whp and 715tq.

Best of Luck.

[Megahurtz]

Best bang for the buck is a drop in green filter, ported 87mm TB, a 5% OD pulley(upper or lower) and flex fuel. You should be able to run E40-E50 on this setup. You can do a shrink fit upper pulley hub yourself at home. Run something like a 2.35 or a 2.38 upper. with stock exhaust manifolds.

It will be a nice pickup of about 50 rwhp and a bit more torque and still drive just like stock.

[cajunzl1]

As Megahertz stated, that's my exact mods

Griptec shrink fit hub with 2.4 and 2.3 pulley's (installed on the car without pulling the supercharger.) Bought both currently have the 2.4 mounted until tuned.

DSX Flex Sensor

Green Panel Filter

TM Ported Throttle Body

Stock Exhaust.

Haven't pinned the wire into the computer yet, but as soon as I do, I'll get it remote tuned by one of the members here.

Once I get it tuned, I'll let you know the results!!

These are all doable on the car.....

[farrk007]

Originally Posted by Bangkok_ZL1

If I was you (and have access to E-85), I would do what I did. Go to Ted Jennetty and get his 125 RWHP kit. I'm more than pleased with everything JRE did for me and I'm in Thailand. Extremely professional, they know their shit, and most importantly, way above board reputation of integrity. And I would do a stage 1 interchiller kit from F. I. Interchillers. If you watch the beginning of lethal garages video about him putting in an F.I. Interchiller, he shows you how temps on our ZL-1s are stupid high. This combination of Ted's kit, which emphasizes power through efficiency, coupled with the interchiller, takes heat issues out of the ZL-1 equation while making more power. Yes, it costs more than a simple pulley. But I must admit. The sound having FLHs, and hearing the intake with the rotofab, and the power (without timing being pulled because of heat), it's electrifying. I've been very very very pleased with the results of this set up. And I'll echo what another user said that convinced me to get the FLHs. When I start Miss America, she sounds like an angry Pit Bull. It's awesome. You won't regret these 2 mod kits.

Will definitely look into this, thanks.

[farrk007]

Originally Posted by Megahurtz

Best bang for the buck is a drop in green filter, ported 87mm TB, a 5% OD pulley(upper or lower) and flex fuel. You should be able to run E40-E50 on this setup. You can do a shrink fit upper pulley hub yourself at home. Run something like a 2.35 or a 2.38 upper. with stock exhaust manifolds.

It will be a nice pickup of about 50 rwhp and a bit more torque and still drive just like stock.

appreciate your suggestion, the only drawback is that the only constant around me gaswise is 93, and its all I basically run anyways, I'll kinda have to do everything with that in mind.

[farrk007]

Originally Posted by ZLElvira

If all you want is 650whp, that is easy!! A RotoFab is great for extra noise and IMHO, the added hot air from the engine compartment for the power you are seeking is a negative as timing will be pulled from your engine due to just street driving, not tracking as you indicated.

If you cannot find E85 to blend, buy a plastic drum off Facebook Marketplace for $20, clean it out perfectly and drive somewhere with a truck and buy some. It only takes about 5-gallons per tank of 93-octane to begin making results. Once you get an E-tune for Flex-Fuel... everything else unlocks power exponentially.

Forget about a smaller pulley but definitely get an ATI Balancer and the aluminum lower pulley up to 9" to spin the stock blower a little faster and still keep the MATs within control. The difference in the lower pulley material going from solid steel to an ATI with an aluminum pulley makes your oil temps drop a bit since that heat from the exchangers is not soaked into the OEM pulley, your oil pump and also making the belt slip more.

Use the Brisk Silver plugs... they make the coils react faster to timing changes that affect dwell and discharge. This will help your engine compensate for its pathetic thermal variances which are also hurting your power by over-fueling the engine inaccurately across all the cylinders. Add Katech plug wires and this will help with removing the lack of energy which will cause a higher RPM under boost misfire... this is how to keep the engine HAPPY!

Reverse coolant flow for the Supercharger Heat exchanger. This will keep the bubbles out of your SC bricks and keep that timing steady that I keep referring to. All of these measures are simple... affect nothing internal to the engine and just like our Project Shocker, with full factory exhaust is still covered by the OEM Warranty while making 697whp and 715tq.

Best of Luck.

I DEFINITELY have to watch yout yt page ZLElvira!!! thanks.