[WhiteMale]

That looks SWEET

[cdb95z28]

Just some advice on adding drop springs.

Putting on drop springs and getting an alignment is not enough. Any rubber bushing on the control arms and anti roll bar mounts will need reset or "timed". You must loosen the fastener at the bushing, so much that the arm/bushing has lateral play in it. Then retighten. Be aware that many Gen6 suspension fasteners are torque to yield (TTY) one time use bolts. GM calls for them to be replaced any time they are loosened. GM also calls for timing of rubber bushings in the service manual.

This procedure times the bushing to be in a neutral state at your final static ride height. Any rubber bushing that is not in a neutral state will have bind in it and could cause additional wheel rate (stiffness). Bound bushings could also not allow the car to lower as much as it could.

The anti roll bar mounts are a rubber mount that are tightly bound to the bar. Any unintended bind at these bushings will create anti roll bar preload (stiffness)that is not desirable. To time these bushings is a little more work because you cannot merely loosen the mounting bracket fasteners and expect the bar to move to a neutral state. You must remove the rubber bushing from the bar, lube the inside of the bushing with liquid soap, reinstall and tighten the brackets (at static ride height) while the soap is still slippery so the bar finds the neutral state. Eventually the liquid soap dries up and the rubber once again grips the bar super tight at the required spot.

I believe that a lack of bushing timing is the reason some say the ride got harsher and sometimes the car feels bouncy.

[1sickzl1]

Originally Posted by infinitereality

I'm on Eibachs, they state 0.4" drop. No drama installing them, easy to do in an afternoon.

No calibration done, like someone else said, such a minimal drop don't really see a need. No issues in over a year.

Ride quality is great, bumps are little sharper feeling but outside that it rides mostly like OEM.

Most all sport cars look better alot better with a slight drop, in my opinion. I think all ZL1s should get some.

This does look pretty sweet, are those rims 20"? Crazy that only a 0.4" drop makes such a dramatic visual difference.

[1sickzl1]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Just some advice on adding drop springs.

Putting on drop springs and getting an alignment is not enough. Any rubber bushing on the control arms and anti roll bar mounts will need reset or "timed". You must loosen the fastener at the bushing, so much that the arm/bushing has lateral play in it. Then retighten. Be aware that many Gen6 suspension fasteners are torque to yield (TTY) one time use bolts. GM calls for them to be replaced any time they are loosened. GM also calls for timing of rubber bushings in the service manual.

This procedure times the bushing to be in a neutral state at your final static ride height. Any rubber bushing that is not in a neutral state will have bind in it and could cause additional wheel rate (stiffness). Bound bushings could also not allow the car to lower as much as it could.

The anti roll bar mounts are a rubber mount that are tightly bound to the bar. Any unintended bind at these bushings will create anti roll bar preload (stiffness)that is not desirable. To time these bushings is a little more work because you cannot merely loosen the mounting bracket fasteners and expect the bar to move to a neutral state. You must remove the rubber bushing from the bar, lube the inside of the bushing with liquid soap, reinstall and tighten the brackets (at static ride height) while the soap is still slippery so the bar finds the neutral state. Eventually the liquid soap dries up and the rubber once again grips the bar super tight at the required spot.

I believe that a lack of bushing timing is the reason some say the ride got harsher and sometimes the car feels bouncy.

Wow, I did not know any of this. I always thought the ride gets stiffer because the spring is shorter and it throws off the strut/spring ratio.

[20Bluezl1]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Just some advice on adding drop springs.

Putting on drop springs and getting an alignment is not enough. Any rubber bushing on the control arms and anti roll bar mounts will need reset or "timed". You must loosen the fastener at the bushing, so much that the arm/bushing has lateral play in it. Then retighten. Be aware that many Gen6 suspension fasteners are torque to yield (TTY) one time use bolts. GM calls for them to be replaced any time they are loosened. GM also calls for timing of rubber bushings in the service manual.

This procedure times the bushing to be in a neutral state at your final static ride height. Any rubber bushing that is not in a neutral state will have bind in it and could cause additional wheel rate (stiffness). Bound bushings could also not allow the car to lower as much as it could.

The anti roll bar mounts are a rubber mount that are tightly bound to the bar. Any unintended bind at these bushings will create anti roll bar preload (stiffness)that is not desirable. To time these bushings is a little more work because you cannot merely loosen the mounting bracket fasteners and expect the bar to move to a neutral state. You must remove the rubber bushing from the bar, lube the inside of the bushing with liquid soap, reinstall and tighten the brackets (at static ride height) while the soap is still slippery so the bar finds the neutral state. Eventually the liquid soap dries up and the rubber once again grips the bar super tight at the required spot.

I believe that a lack of bushing timing is the reason some say the ride got harsher and sometimes the car feels bouncy.

Wow that makes alot of sense I wonder how it effects SPL suspension parts. I have switched out all rear arms and links to SPL.

[infinitereality]

Originally Posted by 1sickzl1

This does look pretty sweet, are those rims 20"? Crazy that only a 0.4" drop makes such a dramatic visual difference.

They're 19s, ZLE offsets. I failed myself and didn't measure pre-drop so don't really know, but I definitely feel the car dropped more than the claimed only 0.4". When I went from 20s to 19s, I noticed the tire height difference getting in/out of it.

[1sickzl1]

Originally Posted by infinitereality

They're 19s, ZLE offsets. I failed myself and didn't measure pre-drop so don't really know, but I definitely feel the car dropped more than the claimed only 0.4". When I went from 20s to 19s, I noticed the tire height difference getting in/out of it.

This might be a winner. Stance is awesome man.

[Z OH 6]

Ebach Pro kit on mine. I think the drop is perfect and I've had them on my car for 2 years now without any issues.


show duplicates online