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Old 03-06-2018, 08:29 PM   #15
trophy hunter
 
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To dispel some further myths .....
A bent pushrod does not always cause a engine to run rough and sometime will not display any characteristics of being "hurt" other than loss of HP.......which some cases
can be hard to detect without a dyno.
That said, I agree with others in that the speed you were at and the gear you went into
I doubt caused any damage at all

Be safe !
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Old 03-06-2018, 08:43 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by soloknight6 View Post
lol, you are fine. if an over-rev did damage, you would know right away... trust me.

Heres a tip so it never happens to you again: Drive with REV MATCH ON haha. Its saved my ass a couple of times, as the car will auto rev to the point of fuel cutoff before you even release the clutch, keeping you from mechanically over-revving the engine.

Seriously dont sweat it. These engines are engineered with this sort of thing in mind, as these are passenger vehicle engines, and not super tuned race engines.
This is a great tip regarding the active rev match. Can certainly save the day if the driver heeds the warning.

To the OP.. you'll be fine.
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Old 03-06-2018, 08:58 PM   #17
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2nd gear is supposed to go all the way to 80... so I think you're fine.
http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=409961
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Old 03-06-2018, 10:13 PM   #18
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I'm told (by owners who have done the money shift) that Porsche 911 on a money shift will shatter a clutch disk/plate or some other thing rather than blow the engine. It is still a $4,000 repair at a Porsche dealer but the engine is saved.

Do we have anything similar in our clutch design? Or does the clutch always will and the engine loses?
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Old 03-06-2018, 10:45 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by srcstc View Post
What he's saying is the rev match happens instantly giving you a little extra warning that you F'd up. And he's right.


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In that sense he is correct.

What I was trying to point out is that when the car is traveling at one speed, and you push in the clutch and select a to-low of a gear for the speed you're driving at and let the clutch out, it's the rotational speed of the rear wheels, the rear end ratio, and the gear ratio of the gear you selected, that determines the speed the engine will try to achieve, completely independent of whether it has fuel and/or spark. The speed of the engine is being mechanically determined, not by fuel or spark inputs (or lack of).

We both seem to be correct, just in different ways.
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Old 03-07-2018, 06:47 AM   #20
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Thanks for all the responses! Kind of put my mind at ease. I’m hoping the ECU eventually forgets whatever it records. I wouldn’t want any warranty issues should I need the warranty in the future.
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Old 03-07-2018, 02:53 PM   #21
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This happened to me in my SS. Had to replace the coil packs, I got them to replace the heads too. Any tips for NOT doing this while racing? When I did it I was racing someone went 3rd to 2nd
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Old 03-07-2018, 03:00 PM   #22
soloknight6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camarofan93 View Post
This happened to me in my SS. Had to replace the coil packs, I got them to replace the heads too. Any tips for NOT doing this while racing? When I did it I was racing someone went 3rd to 2nd
Change your shifting technique. Proper form for 3-4 and 5-6 shifts uses the push away technique. Shift with your palm facing away from your body from now on when upshiftng, as demonstrated in this image:



This will keep you from missing 3-4, as you are pushing down and away from you, rather than down and toward you.
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Old 03-07-2018, 04:25 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soloknight6 View Post
Change your shifting technique. Proper form for 3-4 and 5-6 shifts uses the push away technique. Shift with your palm facing away from your body from now on when upshiftng, as demonstrated in this image:



This will keep you from missing 3-4, as you are pushing down and away from you, rather than down and toward you.
I’ll practice this thanks a lot man
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Old 03-07-2018, 04:33 PM   #24
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no problem bro!
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