[KingLT1]

You don't need rods and crank for 730whp. Just get some drop in forged pistons from cms or vengeance. You will have a 850whp capable mill at that point.

[exxit]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

You don't need rods and crank for 730whp. Just get some drop in forged pistons from cms or vengeance. You will have a 850whp capable mill at that point.

It's a matter of "might as well" considering I will be doing the labor with my buddies and we don't want to open the engine up multiple times for essentially the same work later.

I figured beefing up the pistons and rods only to have the crank go later down the line if I make more power. Not too sure what the stock crank can do but some say there are people making 1khp on the stock crank, others say they give around that range.

[Swagger]

Originally Posted by exxit

I have had day dreams about going with an F1 and sounding like a jet landing everywhere I pull up, but I'm on a 4.25 pulley on this guy so far, It has some room to go up if I was to hop to a 3.7. But the motor is essentially near its threshold. Some have blown up making less power than I am now so I am playing it safe until I get internals.


Sort of bummed because by the time I'm done safely making 750whp, I'll be 20k+ into the build, whereas these coyote dudes make that much for about half using e85 and a VMP supercharger... But as soon as I see or sit in the beast, all that fades away.

Don't be bummed bro, the Coyote motors are truly only good to 750ish crank HP. Thats why the Roush kits keep a warranty with their 720hp kit. Thats a conservative tune for sure. They run, after owning 20 Mustangs I came really close to getting one. Knowing I could get it from the dealer with the Procharger, headers and tuned. For like $51k and finance it LOL... But its just not a 1LE and that made a massive difference for me. I have a friend who is going to a D1X on a 15 GT with a fuel system, headers and tune. He claims he will be faster than me, we shall see

[LesBaer]

Originally Posted by exxit

It's a matter of "might as well" considering I will be doing the labor with my buddies and we don't want to open the engine up multiple times for essentially the same work later.

I figured beefing up the pistons and rods only to have the crank go later down the line if I make more power. Not too sure what the stock crank can do but some say there are people making 1khp on the stock crank, others say they give around that range.

There's definitely a lot more to replace than just swapping in a set of drop in pistons. You've probably got more knowledge than I do when it comes to this and know about all the little stuff you need to buy, but I had my builder shop for everything. I also wouldn't feel too bad about not having an A8 unless you're planning to drive it on the strip the majority of the time. I get so much more enjoyment out of the car driving stick but that's a personal preference thing.



One thing I remember reading here was about the ring gap variances between engines. It was a post made by procharger in the FI section and explains why some cars can handle more boost than others.



With the rear-end, the $2k kit that I think were looking at is the driveshaft and half shafts for the stock rear. I'm pretty sure the full 9" kit is over $5k since it includes all of that plus the rear diff. I'd do some research first before jumping right into the 9" kit. I haven't heard anything negative but it also hasn't been out for more than a year. I've been waiting for more people to try it and make sure all the issues are ironed out before really pounding on mine. I've launched it from a dig at WOT more than a few times though...probably somewhere around 20 times so far I'd say and no issues. I'm not dropping the clutch hard from 5k rpm's though on slicks at a prepped track. I know the stock parts are not rated to handle all that power, but people have been pushing the gen5's even to 1k crank hp on stock parts. Since you've already got them in there and they're paid for, might as well race it till it breaks then fix it. I just added a drive shaft loop for cheap insurance.

[exxit]

Originally Posted by LesBaer

There's definitely a lot more to replace than just swapping in a set of drop in pistons. You've probably got more knowledge than I do when it comes to this and know about all the little stuff you need to buy, but I had my builder shop for everything. I also wouldn't feel too bad about not having an A8 unless you're planning to drive it on the strip the majority of the time. I get so much more enjoyment out of the car driving stick but that's a personal preference thing.



One thing I remember reading here was about the ring gap variances between engines. It was a post made by procharger in the FI section and explains why some cars can handle more boost than others.



With the rear-end, the $2k kit that I think were looking at is the driveshaft and half shafts for the stock rear. I'm pretty sure the full 9" kit is over $5k since it includes all of that plus the rear diff. I'd do some research first before jumping right into the 9" kit. I haven't heard anything negative but it also hasn't been out for more than a year. I've been waiting for more people to try it and make sure all the issues are ironed out before really pounding on mine. I've launched it from a dig at WOT more than a few times though...probably somewhere around 20 times so far I'd say and no issues. I'm not dropping the clutch hard from 5k rpm's though on slicks at a prepped track. I know the stock parts are not rated to handle all that power, but people have been pushing the gen5's even to 1k crank hp on stock parts. Since you've already got them in there and they're paid for, might as well race it till it breaks then fix it. I just added a drive shaft loop for cheap insurance.

Yah I think I'm going to skip the 9 inch rear for now, and do the DSS stuff just in case. I know an M6 forum member has that on her ride and she's been launching the crap out of it. I plan on just getting off the line without spinning more than flying out of the hole The block on the other hand, I don't want to play games with. Especially going with a flexfuel setup.

[aka Reckless]

Stock displacement, solid roller, port injection, through an automatic:

https://www.facebook.com/VengeanceRa...1189193558517/

[exxit]

Originally Posted by aka Reckless

Stock displacement, solid roller, port injection, through an automatic:

https://www.facebook.com/VengeanceRa...1189193558517/

Ugh... That is so badass. That thing probably starts rattling apart when it launches haha.

I'm pretty much convinced I'm going to keep and tinker with the SS as my drag toy and set some money aside for a mid engine vette for the twisties...

[LesBaer]

Originally Posted by exxit

Yah I think I'm going to skip the 9 inch rear for now, and do the DSS stuff just in case. I know an M6 forum member has that on her ride and she's been launching the crap out of it. I plan on just getting off the line without spinning more than flying out of the hole The block on the other hand, I don't want to play games with. Especially going with a flexfuel setup.

Yeah, if I break anything back there now I'd more than likely just grab another set of axles and driveshaft. I've driven on e85 (60%) almost exclusively all summer (7k miles) and haven't a problem so I'm probably fine...I hear you though about not wanting to chance it.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by parish8

You can do all of your goal if you trade your car in for an a8. I am stock from the engine to the axles and my 1/8 mile time indicates 9's are likely.

Sad but true, still I know the M6 would not be the streetfighting king nor the 1/4 king. That has been true forever... still I know this will be my last manual and I knew I'd leave .25 on any streetfight.... For a true 1/4 mile build unless one was MADE of money, I would only consider the A8. When I got my LS1, I know I was going to race it and got a A4, installed the PI highstall made for the LS1, great company and converter. EFI-Tuning a vendor here sells the Precision Industry stuff. I think that PI was just a better more reputable company.

[Swagger]

Originally Posted by exxit

Ugh... That is so badass. That thing probably starts rattling apart when it launches haha.

I'm pretty much convinced I'm going to keep and tinker with the SS as my drag toy and set some money aside for a mid engine vette for the twisties...

I'm not saying Ive seen or driven the upcoming Vette... But what I will say is that I am definitely getting one based on some recent experience. Cant freakin wait

[exxit]

Originally Posted by Swagger

I'm not saying Ive seen or driven the upcoming Vette... But what I will say is that I am definitely getting one based on some recent experience. Cant freakin wait

[asthmamax11]

Have you thought about getting an LT4 out of a wrecked CTS-V or Z ?
Then swap the Cam and put a Whipple on it before you drop it in your car. That should get you close to where you wanna be and with the confidence of a built motor from the factory.
Then sell the LT1 and Procharger to help offset the cost.

[exxit]

Originally Posted by asthmamax11

Have you thought about getting an LT4 out of a wrecked CTS-V or Z ?
Then swap the Cam and put a Whipple on it before you drop it in your car. That should get you close to where you wanna be and with the confidence of a built motor from the factory.
Then sell the LT1 and Procharger to help offset the cost.

I can keep an open mind about it, but sounds like a lot of hunting for shit that is a variable vs going with a reputable internals company and putting it together to the same end. I'll need the fuel system to get an LT4 to that power and if I'm going to go through camming it I might as well do the same amount of labor with less leg work

[asthmamax11]

I see. I don't even know how feasible swapping an LT4 would be. Taking it this far separates the men from the boys
Lol