[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by glamcem

I am planning to get Multimatics because of that So I can do something like -1.5 front camber and add additional -1.5 camber from the OEM camber plate

Yup, I'll be getting the DSSV's as well when they're released. The camber plates are a short term solution. Maybe they'll work on the DSSV as well which would be nice.

[TrackClub]

As Cem suggested 3.3 might be an over kill.
I have 2.6 and Cup2s on right now and they are wearing evenly. I believe Michelin suggests 3 as very max. Also note that more camber will increase the rake (as Sean suggested) and change you balance. Just FYI.
EDIT:
Good review and pix - thanks for that!

[seanblurr]

I'm not talking about the camber adding rake, I'm talking specifically about these camber plates allowing 1/2" drop via a spacer.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by Eric SS

Yup, I'll be getting the DSSV's as well when they're released. The camber plates are a short term solution. Maybe they'll work on the DSSV as well which would be nice.

DSSVs are already coming with the camber plates so that you can change the front camber on the fly (add or remove -1.7 degree )

The other half of the chassis performance comes from Canadian supplier Multimatic in the form of aluminum-bodied spool-valve dampers. Not only do they provide an elegant and passive way to vary damping force, the inverted struts provide a means to achieve race-car-like negative camber at the front end. Via a trick method to switch back and forth between street and track settings, the ball-jointed and forged-aluminum top mounts of the front struts are adjustable to increase negative camber by 1.7 degrees. To set the car to track camber, jack one corner, remove an alignment pin in the wheel well and the three bolts at the top of the strut tower under the matte-black hood, twist the top mount 180 degrees (it has a dual bolt pattern), reattach, and—voilà—instant camber. Combined with fairly common eccentric alignment bolts, the ZL1 1LE can have as much as 3.7 degrees of negative front camber, although Chevy recommends negative 2.7 on the track

taken from here:
http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...t-drive-review

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by glamcem

DSSVs are already coming with the camber plates so that you can change the front camber on the fly (add or remove -1.7 degree )



taken from here:
http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...t-drive-review

I knew about the on the fly adjustment with them but I read it to mean that it was an adjustment of 1.7* and that was a fixed adjustment at the tower and any tuning would still need to be done at the knuckle. I'd like to still have the ability to dial it in at the tower and keep the knuckle fixed like these camber plates allow for.

Maybe I'm wrong though and the DSSV is adjustable at he tower by more than just 2 settings.

[Provoste]

Originally Posted by Eric SS

I knew about the on the fly adjustment with them but I read it to mean that it was an adjustment of 1.7* and that was a fixed adjustment at the tower and any tuning would still need to be done at the knuckle. I'd like to still have the ability to dial it in at the tower and keep the knuckle fixed like these camber plates allow for.

Maybe I'm wrong though and the DSSV is adjustable at he tower by more than just 2 settings.

It's adjustable at the tower.

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by Provoste

It's adjustable at the tower.

Yes, I know, but that pic looks to confirm my believe that it is only adjustable in 1.7* increments instead of being infinitely adjustable (within range) like camber plates are. Thanks for the pic.

[Provoste]

Originally Posted by Eric SS

Yes, I know, but that pic looks to confirm my believe that it is only adjustable in 1.7* increments instead of being infinitely adjustable (within range) like camber plates are. Thanks for the pic.

Gotcha, yep.

[Moreno1]

To those wondering about the .5" drop, we are working on machined aluminum rear adjustable lower control arms with the ability to lower ride height in the rear by .5" and adjust rear camber to go along with the camber plates. this will give you guys a way to lower ride height .5" all around without changing spring rate stay tuned for that

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by Moreno Motorsports

To those wondering about the .5" drop, we are working on machined aluminum rear adjustable lower control arms with the ability to lower ride height in the rear by .5" and adjust rear camber to go along with the camber plates. this will give you guys a way to lower ride height .5" all around without changing spring rate stay tuned for that

Aluminum Rear LCA's?

[seanblurr]

Excellent.

[Ryephile]

Originally Posted by Moreno Motorsports

To those wondering about the .5" drop, we are working on machined aluminum rear adjustable lower control arms with the ability to lower ride height in the rear by .5" and adjust rear camber to go along with the camber plates. this will give you guys a way to lower ride height .5" all around without changing spring rate stay tuned for that

FYI, you mean pre-load. ...and I'm also very interested assuming they also move the damper itself 1/2". Maintaining compression travel is critical to doing it right.

Will these be spherical bearing too?

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by Eric SS

Yes, I know, but that pic looks to confirm my believe that it is only adjustable in 1.7* increments instead of being infinitely adjustable (within range) like camber plates are. Thanks for the pic.

I see. Each his own course. I actually prefer having only one adjustment for simplicity and being able to change it without taking to an alignment shop.

[Ryephile]

Originally Posted by glamcem

I see. Each his own course. I actually prefer having only one adjustment for simplicity and being able to change it without taking to an alignment shop.

They both have their advantages. The Multimatic's make it fairly easy to switch front camber at the track and only mess up the toe a little bit, whereas the camber plates need an alignment rack to get it right and symmetrical.

Cem, when you do your rack alignment with the Multimatic's, you'll have to choose when you want your toe to be correct, track or street setting. Moving from track to street setting will increase toe-out a smidge.