[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by ZLElvira

Well GABE... you know I feel like I let you down on getting this done but my car has been at www.9LivesRacing.com getting the aero completed which has to be done with the stock impact bar and then yours. I have all the parts to not only add this same oil cooler but swap out the transmission cooler which is prone to failures as well.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/nm0aON7IzQw

That is bad ass... I didn't realize people where upgrading the trans cooler.

Happy to see you have been keeping busy! Can't wait to see your combo fully built! I'll keep you posted on mine as well

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

That is bad ass... I didn't realize people where upgrading the trans cooler.

Happy to see you have been keeping busy! Can't wait to see your combo fully built! I'll keep you posted on mine as well

I am on the second trans cooler due to puncture failures from stones and road/track debris.

I am also removing the circuit from the engine coolant radiator. My new SC HX is going to triple the coolant volume and remove the need for the Aux SC/HX in the driver's side. That is getting new fittings to run the cooling for the rear diff using the factory hard lines. Most people have no idea that the eLSD is fed ATF from the transmission AFTER it makes the trip to the engine's radiator, the aux HX that lays flat in the front and then makes a trip all the way back to the rear diff before going back to the transmission!!! So I am removing all that BS and separating the cooling systems so each has its own thermostatic control.

Be sure to subscribe to my YouTube Channel for all the updates!!

https://www.youtube.com/@DavidWilks/videos

[jd2021]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Thanks for the feedback.

I like your set up, but was hoping to be able to keep all of the HX, while running the oil cooler also. YES, I will be making a bracket and selling a kit for people who already have the crash bar

This is probably a dumb question but what is the oil block of plate intended for? Does the block off plate function similarly to an oil filter sandwich plate? What exactly does it block off if that's the intended purpose? This seems like a nice kit and seems like something to do down the road, and I'm wondering how the routing for the oil would be intended.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by jd2021

This is probably a dumb question but what is the oil block of plate intended for? Does the block off plate function similarly to an oil filter sandwich plate? What exactly does it block off if that's the intended purpose? This seems like a nice kit and seems like something to do down the road, and I'm wondering how the routing for the oil would be intended.

Not a dumb question once you understand the flow path for the engine oil. The oil comes from the pump directly through the Oil Filter plate on the side of the pan before going to the filter which can also be bypassed by the port restriction and filter valve if equipped. Doing it this way makes sure that 100% of all the oil coming out of the pump and going into the engine's passages, is cooled and if you add an additional filter for more volume, has been thermally reduced. Using this mount can leave the filter boss just for the filter... and nothing else.

Here is the link to the part so you can see how it is used.

https://www.improvedracing.com/2016-...figurator.html

[jd2021]

Originally Posted by ZLElvira

Not a dumb question once you understand the flow path for the engine oil. The oil comes from the pump directly through the Oil Filter plate on the side of the pan before going to the filter which can also be bypassed by the port restriction and filter valve if equipped. Doing it this way makes sure that 100% of all the oil coming out of the pump and going into the engine's passages, is cooled and if you add an additional filter for more volume, has been thermally reduced. Using this mount can leave the filter boss just for the filter... and nothing else.

Here is the link to the part so you can see how it is used.

https://www.improvedracing.com/2016-...figurator.html

Thanks for the explanation, didn't know it deleted the OE oil cooler on the pan, makes sense now.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

REMOTE GMS OIL COOLER UPDATE:

We'll a bathroom remodel, testing my future HX kits, and next bath of (25) crash bars has delayed this a bit... but with my mocked up, slightly upgraded crash bar in place... I was able to finally fab up some brackets and test fit the placement of the dual pass oil cooler. As you can see, it fits PERFECTLY behind the upper grill section and flow tie. This ensures all of the incoming air meant for the HX stays that way, and the oil cooler will get its own channel of air, and also hides nicely with its black coating.

I am going to test some 30 degree vs. 45 degree fittings for an easier install and should have some final install photos in the next few weeks.

Just need the #1 unit, of my next batch of GMS high flow impact bars (to replace my original design) so I will be running, what im selling.

Stay tuned

[Rapid_blue_zl1_22]

Will the oil cooler work for those of us who already have the crash bar, or will new brackets be needed?

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by Rapid_blue_zl1_22

Will the oil cooler work for those of us who already have the crash bar, or will new brackets be needed?

Yes sir... you will just need to drill and tap (4) holes. The kit will be turn-key with block off plate, in-line 185 degree thermostat, brackets for the crash bar, and all of the AN fittings and lines you need.

I was told that by others that coolers like this benefit from a heavier oil weight, similar to those who race anyway. I will be using 10W-50 and will update you all on any changes in oil pressure.

The kit will also include an upgraded "delete kit" with a proper 5/8" quick connect "end cap" for the fitting that comes directly off the water pump.

I am confident that huge results will be had with this oil cooler kit, and my upcoming HX cooling kit combined. Stay tuned

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Status Update...

1. Next batch of (25) crash bars is almost ready. Should be back from powder coating next week, and will have units ready to ship in the next 10-14 days. First (5) are already spoken for...
2. All bars are drilled and taped to accept the front mount oil cooler.
3. Official GMS Website will go live in the next 10-14 days.

Thank you all for the support, advice and inspiration. Stay tuned for more, and PM me if you want to go on the waiting / pre-order list for the crash bar and or oil cooler.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Brother, those are works of art !

[iwk2much]

Sharing my experience, I think it is worth testing and considering for the final "kit".

I installed an external oil cooler, a couple in fact after I blew the LT4 and replaced with a built 427 NA on a Resleeved LT1/4 block. I did so because the oil temp with this set-up was in the 300's. I used the improved racing adapter plate to get the oil to Dewitt oil cooler mounted under the crash bar then a C&R oil cooler mounter in place of the driver side heat exchanger. All fit great as the supercharger front and side heat exchangers are no longer.
The set-up worked great to cool the oil, rarely got above 250 despite running hard on road hot-lanta or Sebring last summer. The down side was the oil pressure high was only in the very low 30's, high 20's at operating temp. I material drop. You will not notice the oil pressure drop unless running hard for consecutive laps. Hard pulls on the street and freeway speeds the psi drop was not that much.

Concerned that I am not oiling the motor effectively, I took the plunge to install a Dailey dry sump under the assumption that the Katech wet oil pump was not up to the task to circulate the oil through all these coolers.
The set-up looked great but had to lose the A/C and the external oil pump sits on the same side as the A/C compressor. Not concerned since this car is primarily a track car. Weight savings by these all combined mods puts the car at 3390 pounds without driver.

I digress - much to my disappointment however, this fancy dry sump did zero to address the oil pressure issue. Oil pressure was the same. UGH. Got a 21 HP boost between the motor now broke in and dry sump vs the numbers after first install.

The Dailey pump was spec'd and geared to delivery 45-50 PSI. I called Dailey to "complain" about the results. His first question to me, what size AN line are you using to plumb the oil coolers? I said AN -10. Most of the lines where unmodified from the wet sump set up, just had to couple the return line as it needed to be longer. He almost angrily replied - My install instructions specifically call for an AN-12 line. Change those lines to a -12, call back if you are still having issues.

Well, he was right, after another $500 on fitting and lines, my oil pressure on the track is as spec'd 45-50 PSI. At start up, the oil pressure is at 75-80 likely due to the 20W-50 racing oil.

This is what I wanted to share for you to consider while testing. I can't help but wonder that if I used AN-12 lines when I first installed the oil coolers would the oil pressure have been a non-issue.

Since the cost of -10 lines vs -12 lines are not too much, you may want to consider testing this and perhaps consider -12 lines for the final kit if you get the same results I got.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Thanks for the feedback, sounds like you have had alot of testing of your own. I spent alot of time talking to the team at improved and CSF before assembling this kit.

A few take aways from our calls...

1. (2) coolers would absolutely reduce oil pressure. (1) effective one is best. Especially considering the residual efficiency gained, by separating the engine oil and coolant via the OEM cooler.

2. I was suggested to run a heavier weight oil, like many who road race would do anyway... I am going to test using 5W-50 Mobil One Supercar to start, and see how pressure looks.

3. Smaller -10AN lines are plenty big, and will help with keeping pressure up.

I look forward to providing some real world data shortly.

[Joshinator99]

Running the heat exchangers back to back (in series) will double the head resistance which the oil pump is undoubtedly not designed for. Agree that one good cooler with low pressure drop is the way.

If you really need two oil coolers (I don’t know, I’m just a quarter mile guy so I don’t have any oil cooler at all lol), then you’d be better off splitting the flow into the two heat exchangers in parallel so that way you’d get the extra cooling with no pressure effects on the oil pump.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Gabe, if you recall... I said months ago when we were discussing this, -12 is the best way to go so there is greater flow with a dual bypass oil cooler. Using the -10 just isn't enough and if you go to any Pro Racing event to see the C8R or the GT4.R cars, they all use -12 lines with the OEM oil pumps. I eventually will add an AccuSump to pre-lube for start-up and offer a little insurance for sustained lateral loads like the carousel at Road America.

The issue you will run into is that the LT4 pump will flow up to 10 GPM at peak RPM before the system will bypass through the filter back to the oil pan. You guys are making me dig up my aircraft hydraulic charts... so, if you run the flow numbers, a -12 hose has an I.D. of 0.69 inches and a -10 hose had an I.D. of 0.56 inches. At a flow rate of 10 GPM a -10 hose would have a pressure drop in a 10 foot run of hose of approximately 28 psi!! Now, if I run the numbers for At the same 10 GPM flow rate, the -12 hose would have a pressure drop in a 10 foot run of hose of approximately 4.7 psi... BIG DIFFERENCE!

The LT4 is built with a pressure relief bypass valve in the oil filter, so if you have a pressure drop due to hose size, the oil will not get filtered and will bypass.

I am running a non-bypass filter and blocking the oil bypass in the block passage... then adding a SeeThru oil filter to split the pressure drop.

Hope this helps you all understand.