[ride98red]

How much use should I expect to get out of a single pad? In other words, how many pads should I expect to use when correcting paint on our cars?

This past week, in the evenings for about 4 hours, I've been paint correcting the wifes car (Hyundai Santa Fe) and it seems like the orange med/heavy cut Hex Logic pad has wore out after completing 3/4 of the vehicle. I washed it by hand each night and let it dry over night (polishing surface down) and it seems to be clogging easier/faster and doing more scratching than cutting. The paint looks great, just trying to gauge what a norm should be.

[Glen e]

I’m using pads that are 2 to 3 years old. I am very religious about washing the right afterwords. However I don’t do any major paint correction because my car is relatively new. So for me it’s mostly finishing polishing which doesn’t wear out pad. Polishing usually doesn’t wear down iPad it’s usually people being stupid and and going over badges and getting them caught trying to do them on grills and things like that and actually taking chunks out of the pad.

[ride98red]

Originally Posted by Glen e

I’m using pads that are 2 to 3 years old. I am very religious about washing the right afterwords. However I don’t do any major paint correction because my car is relatively new. So for me it’s mostly finishing polishing which doesn’t wear out pad. Polishing usually doesn’t wear down iPad it’s usually people being stupid and and going over badges and getting them caught trying to do them on grills and things like that and actually taking chunks out of the pad.

Im new to this, but I'm not being stupid. My pads only touch painted surfaces. I certainly noticed that the white pads are still doing their job perfectly so I did suspect the orange pad, coupled with the heavier cut polish, is going to wear out the pad faster.

[KirkH]

If your polisher is getting hot, it will destroy pads, sometimes in one use. Check the bolt that holds the backing plate (carefully) when you are using your polisher and see if it is hot. It could need more bearing grease.

My brand new Makita PO5000C had to go back to have more grease packed in.

[ride98red]

Originally Posted by KirkH

If your polisher is getting hot, it will destroy pads, sometimes in one use. Check the bolt that holds the backing plate (carefully) when you are using your polisher and see if it is hot. It could need more bearing grease.

My brand new Makita PO5000C had to go back to have more grease packed in.

Oh it gets quite hot! When I change from my 6" plate to the 3", I cant hold onto the backing plate stud for long. The backing plate has the little non-metallic washer. Will have to check into the bearing grease thing. Thanks Kirk!

[KirkH]

Originally Posted by ride98red

Oh it gets quite hot! When I change from my 6" plate to the 3", I cant hold onto the backing plate stud for long. The backing plate has the little non-metallic washer. Will have to check into the bearing grease thing. Thanks Kirk!

That's your problem. The polisher gets hot and melts the pads. The orange foam probably melts more easily that the white, or you don't notice the white distorting.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

The paint on your wife's Hyundai is soft paint. There is nothing wrong with your orange cutting pad. It's loading up faster because the soft paint comes off at a faster rate than the harder paint on your Camaro.

Try using a finishing pad with compound, and for your finishing, a no cut pad. You may have to use a less aggressive compound and finishing polish as well.

While your machine will get a little hot, it's not going to heat the pad on the outside to a point to melt it, unless your using a rotary.

Dual action polishers spread the heat across the entire pad surface, unlike rotary polishers that put all the heat to one spot.

The worst thing from heat that could happen with a dual action is you use it too long and melt the Velcro to the backing plate. I did this once a few years ago.

You should clean your pads after every section done with a brush, or a towel, or with a universal pad cleaner.

At some point though, your pad will get clogged and wont cut as well. When your results diminish, change to a fresh pad. I've had to use as many as 4 on softer paint.

If you don't have a pad brush or a universal pad washer, here's an easy method to clean your foam pads "on the fly".




When your done for the day, here's a good video done by Dylan Von Kliest, a professional detailer, for cleaning pads.

[Burly]

4 hours with a single pad is too much. In a 4 hour period I'll probably use at least two pads and giving them the terry cloth cleaning "on the fly" at least twice per pad during use.

[KirkH]

No if the machine is getting too hot to touch, theres a problem. My brand new Makita PO5000C dual action polisher absolutely melted pads.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

I forgot to add this in my other post, but removing all the old waxes/sealants that are on the car before compounding/polishing is also a huge factor to keep your pads from getting clogged.

If they aren't removed, then along with compound/polish residue, and paint residue, your also introducing this into the pad as well.

Before any paint correction is done the paint should be strip washed, clayed/clay alternative, and iron decontaminated.

After completion of these steps, a wipe down with IPA 10-15% or Carpro Eraser to remove any remaining oils on the paint. You want the paint completely free of anything on it that would come between the compound/polish, and the paint.

After compounding your section, use the IPA or Eraser to remove any residue/oils. Use a long knap microfiber towel for this step. I like the Rag Co. Everest 1100's, but any long knap will do.

You also want to do this after your finishing polish, unless your using Carpro Essence, to remove any residues/oils that remain. This will give whatever LSP your using (coating, sealant, wax) the best possible surface to bond to, and help to maximize it's durability.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by KirkH

No if the machine is getting too hot to touch, theres a problem. My brand new Makita PO5000C dual action polisher absolutely melted pads.

Your Makita can be set to a forced rotation, unlike a standard dual action polisher, that isn't forced rotation. The original machine that did this was the Flex 3401. It's going to get much hotter then a standard DA like a PC, Megs, Griots, and even the long throw Rupes and copies.

When you prime pads using forced rotation machines, you have to put polish on the entire pad, not 3 or 4 pea sized drops.
It's also a good idea to spritz the area being worked with distilled water when the compound/polish is nearing the end of it's cycle, to reduce surface heat.

[ride98red]

Wow, I made a lot of mistakes. But that's ok, it was my first time and I learned a lot.

Thanks for all the input!

I'm happy with the end results.

[KirkH]

Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS

Your Makita can be set to a forced rotation, unlike a standard dual action polisher, that isn't forced rotation. The original machine that did this was the Flex 3401. It's going to get much hotter then a standard DA like a PC, Megs, Griots, and even the long throw Rupes and copies.

When you prime pads using forced rotation machines, you have to put polish on the entire pad, not 3 or 4 pea sized drops.
It's also a good idea to spritz the area being worked with distilled water when the compound/polish is nearing the end of it's cycle, to reduce surface heat.

No it should not get hot, even in gear driven mode. I returned it to Makita to have new grease packed in the bearings after first time used. Makita said it should not get hot at all.

[KirkH]

Melted pad from dual action polisher with no/not enough/failed bearing grease. This occurred after one panel. Brand new Makita PO5000C. Really made me re-think my purchase, but it went to the tool repair shop in August where Makita instructed them to repack the bearing with hi temp grease. No problems getting hot since.