[CarFlow1]

Does the ZL1 have a switch for shutting off the suspension? I would imagine there is for the purpose of lifting up the vehicle.

[Mr. Wyndham]

Originally Posted by CarFlow1

Does the ZL1 have a switch for shutting off the suspension? I would imagine there is for the purpose of lifting up the vehicle.

No. But you wouldn't need to?

I'm confused what the purpose would be. It turns on and off with the rest of the vehicle systems...

[CarFlow1]

Originally Posted by Mr. Wyndham

No. But you wouldn't need to?

I'm confused what the purpose would be. It turns on and off with the rest of the vehicle systems...

For background: I'm trying to figure out some root causes of a bad suspension sensor. I'm getting some work done where I had a new set of wheels installed and some rear suspension work. I was told that GM advises to calibrate the suspension whenever new wheels are installed.

The shop got back to me informing one of my suspension sensors went bad. I'm just curious how, either lifting it up etc.

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by CarFlow1

For background: I'm trying to figure out some root causes of a bad suspension sensor. I'm getting some work done where I had a new set of wheels installed and some rear suspension work. I was told that GM advises to calibrate the suspension whenever new wheels are installed.

The shop got back to me informing one of my suspension sensors went bad. I'm just curious how that is all

What suspension work? Sounds like maybe they forgot to remove the arm to the ride height sensor and broke it.

[Ryephile]

Originally Posted by CarFlow1

For background: I'm trying to figure out some root causes of a bad suspension sensor. I'm getting some work done where I had a new set of wheels installed and some rear suspension work. I was told that GM advises to calibrate the suspension whenever new wheels are installed.

The shop got back to me informing one of my suspension sensors went bad. I'm just curious how, either lifting it up etc.

By who? They're wrong. That rationale makes no sense whatsoever based on how the MRC's operate.

However, ride height sensors are frequently broken by incompetent shops that forget to disconnect them prior to removing the springs & dampers. If you overextend them their tie-rod easily snaps.

[CarFlow1]

Originally Posted by Eric SS

What suspension work? Sounds like maybe they forgot to remove the arm to the ride height sensor and broke it.

Just the level of insight I was looking for, they repaired the Right and Left Backing Plates

[CarFlow1]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

By who? They're wrong. That rationale makes no sense whatsoever based on how the MRC's operate.

However, ride height sensors are frequently broken by incompetent shops that forget to disconnect them prior to removing the springs & dampers. If you overextend them their tie-rod easily snaps.

Wow this is useful information, it does sound a bit strange. They claimed to have had a conference call with someone at a GM dealer stating this - but it doesn't factual to me.

[Ryephile]

Backing plates, like for the rotors? Why would you need those replaced?

Originally Posted by CarFlow1

Wow this is useful information, it does sound a bit strange. They claimed to have had a conference call with someone at a GM dealer stating this - but it doesn't factual to me.

Even if there's a way to "reset" the sensors, no aftermarket shop has that capability. The MRC computer is simply looking for an ADC value and calculates the damping force PWM output to the damper based on all the vehicle sensor data plus the ride height sensor position delta vs. time. When your shop replaces the sensor, it's critical they make the tie rod the same length as it was originally.

[Mr. Wyndham]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

Even if there's a way to "reset" the sensors, no aftermarket shop has that capability. The MRC computer is simply looking for an ADC value and calculates the damping force PWM output to the damper based on all the vehicle sensor data plus the ride height sensor position delta vs. time. When your shop replaces the sensor, it's critical they make the tie rod the same length as it was originally.

If you put a wheel and tire combo on that was different from the factory - all you may need to do there is recalibrate the computer for your speedometer...again, nothing to do with the suspension.

[CarFlow1]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

Backing plates, like for the rotors? Why would you need those replaced?



Even if there's a way to "reset" the sensors, no aftermarket shop has that capability. The MRC computer is simply looking for an ADC value and calculates the damping force PWM output to the damper based on all the vehicle sensor data plus the ride height sensor position delta vs. time. When your shop replaces the sensor, it's critical they make the tie rod the same length as it was originally.

Good point, I'm leaning more towards having the car taken out of there. Installing a sensor sounds much more complex.

[CarFlow1]

Originally Posted by Mr. Wyndham

If you put a wheel and tire combo on that was different from the factory - all you may need to do there is recalibrate the computer for your speedometer...again, nothing to do with the suspension.

This is very helpful as a different set of wheels and tires were installed as well. Why would the computer for the speedometer need to be calibrated?

Definitely, taking the vehicle elsewhere now.

[Ryephile]

Originally Posted by CarFlow1

This is very helpful as a different set of wheels and tires were installed as well. Why would the computer for the speedometer need to be calibrated?

Definitely, taking the vehicle elsewhere to get diagnosed.

If your new tire rolling radius differs significantly from OEM then the speedometer needs to be calibrated. Otherwise it'll read either high or low, depending on which way the tire size went.

This is why over in the wheel & tire sub-forum we try to ensure the new tire's we choose have a rational rolling radius.

[Tim202]

Originally Posted by CarFlow1

This is very helpful as a different set of wheels and tires were installed as well. Why would the computer for the speedometer need to be calibrated?

Definitely, taking the vehicle elsewhere now.

If you're doing different wheel size and/or tire aspect ratio, the speed will be incorrect. ***Doh, Ryephile beat me to it***

[CarFlow1]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

If your new tire rolling radius differs significantly from OEM then the speedometer needs to be calibrated. Otherwise it'll read either high or low, depending on which way the tire size went.

This is why over in the wheel & tire sub-forum we try to ensure the new tire's we choose have a rational rolling radius.

That explains why the back-end felt more ''bouncy'' at higher speeds.