[JCunningham]

Just put the full FE4 1LE suspension on my 2SS. getting the bushings timed and an alignment. Nor sure if i should do the track alignment in the supplement or just get the FE4 alignment as it comes from the factory. Car is only going to see street. 1 track day a year. running MPSS 285/30 305/30 on real ZL1 wheels. did the 1LE kit with reprogram. replaced the front radius rods (lower control arms) with 1LE units. also replaced all the trailing arms with the 1LE units so it has everything the 1LE comes with.

[Bow Tie Affair]

I would get the FE4 alignment. No need for track alignment in a 99.9% street driven car. Congrats on the upgrade!

[WhyUMad1LE]

I had faster wear on the outside of the tires with the street alignment. I would think the additional camber of the track alignment should wear more evenly.

[RXtacy]

I personally would do something like -1.5 to -2.0° camber in the front and -1.0 to -1.5° in the rear. 0 toe all around.

Something to consider, the more camber you add the more likely the car is to tramline. I have camber maxed out front and rear (-2.6 and -1.6 respectively) and it tramlines pretty bad.

[JCunningham]

so what about this.
front camber -1.5 +- 0.15, total tow 0
rear camber 1.0 +- 0.15, total tow 0

[Ryephile]

Originally Posted by JCunningham

so what about this.
front camber -1.5 +- 0.15, total tow 0
rear camber 1.0 +- 0.15, total tow 0

That's good camber for a street-only setup. Personally I recommend 0.05° toe-in per side, front and back. Zero toe can feel loose and isn't really needed on a street car.

[JCunningham]

Ok thanks

[JCunningham]

The tow truck was 3 hours late so they didnt finish my alignment. They got the rear done but they only got the front to -0.3. Then the guy came out and said he might have to cut to get the alignment posted below.
front camber -1.5 +- 0.15, total tow 0.05
rear camber 1.0 +- 0.15, total tow 0.05
It this achievable without modification?

[RXtacy]

Originally Posted by JCunningham

The tow truck was 3 hours late so they didnt finish my alignment. They got the rear done but they only got the front to -0.3. Then the guy came out and said he might have to cut to get the alignment posted below.
front camber -1.5 +- 0.15, total tow 0.05
rear camber 1.0 +- 0.15, total tow 0.05
It this achievable without modification?

A stock 1LE can achieve ~ -2.6° in the front without modification. They must be doing something wrong to only be able to get -0.3°.

[JCunningham]

it was more a time thing. they had already stayed open a extra hour to try and finish my car. I have the 1LE suspension kit. it has stock SS Mag ride with the 1LE front and rear front control arms. I replaced every component front and back that was different on the 1LE.

[RXtacy]

Originally Posted by JCunningham

it was more a time thing. they had already stayed open a extra hour to try and finish my car. I have the 1LE suspension kit. it has stock SS Mag ride with the 1LE front and rear front control arms. I replaced every component front and back that was different on the 1LE.

I could be wrong, but I believe the mag ride is the same between the SS and 1LE with the exception of calibration. Is the SS front hub/knuckle different than the 1LE? Simply loosening the two bolts on the knuckle allowed me to get about -2.5° in my garage. Of course you then have to adjust toe. I would ask for clarification from the alignment shop of what the issue is. You say it was a time thing, but that doesn't explain why the tech was suggesting cutting or slotting the holes would have been necessary.

[Ryephile]

Originally Posted by RXtacy

I could be wrong, but I believe the mag ride is the same between the SS and 1LE with the exception of calibration. Is the SS front hub/knuckle different than the 1LE? Simply loosening the two bolts on the knuckle allowed me to get about -2.5° in my garage. Of course you then have to adjust toe. I would ask for clarification from the alignment shop of what the issue is. You say it was a time thing, but that doesn't explain why the tech was suggesting cutting or slotting the holes would have been necessary.

Another incompetent mechanic/shop. 99% chance they didn't tap the strut bolts loose from their splines after loosening the nuts. That's the only way you can free up the strut-to-knuckle interface to adjust camber.

The knuckles are the same between SS and 1LE. OP should ask for money back or bring it back so they can finish the job you paid them for.

[JCunningham]

it doesnt make sense to me either. iv never done a alignment but he said he didnt know if he would have to cut to get that alignment. This was when he was finished for the day. I dont know why they didnt have enough time to get more than .3 out of it. Id think he could have maxed out the camber easy to check to see if he would have to cut.

[JCunningham]

i have a appointment thursday to get it finished. I had them put new bolts in it. So he should have noticed they have splines. When I was installing the kit I did not know they had splines and stripped the splines out of the pass side top hole. Would have been nice it it was mentioned in the directions or if they could finally put out the factory shop manuals.