[Cdflyer]

Originally Posted by Fraxum

M6 2SS with roof here. All at full weight @ 3,675 pounds (1/4 tank) or more.

1. All stock: 12.354@115.92
2. MSD, ARH LTs, RotoFab dry, BMR trailing arms, NT555R 20" DRs: 11.824@118.48
3. Above plus - Ported TB, MSD, shift light, and E85: Still have not beat #2 but since I have run over 120 mph in +1,500 DA I know I will. I have come close in the higher summer DAs, 11.839@119.75.

I'm jealous of the DA! In the summer heat were up around 3,000ft. If I could ever manage to RT a good DA day, I'm hoping for 11.00 or even a 10.99 and I'd be happy.

It's fantastic that with a little work you're as high into the mph that you are. Making so good HP there!

[PRAY]

Ensure you take the posts that don't list DA with a grain of salt. If the DA is not listed, the same or close to the same then the numbers don't mean much.

Lot's of good information here. Car now has my ported heads and Ported MSD and has gone a bit faster in much worse DA. it is a very easy recipe to follow. Car is also full weight at 3,820lbs on a 28" tall tire. As is, it should go mid 10's this winter in good DA.

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=492016

And a couple more.

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=501577

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=488302

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=493914

[PRAY]

The mods I feel will best boost your 1/4 times are as follows in order. 1 and 2 go hand in hand.

1. 17" Race Starts with 26" tires front and back. .3-4 reduction.

2. Tune .3-.4 reduction.

3. Circle D 4C .2+ reduction depending.

4. E85 .2+ reduction depending.

5. Roto-fab CAI w/ dry filter .1-1.5 reduction

6. Ported IM/TB. Take your pick with the MSD or Stock IM. If you skip the converter then the Ported stocker may be a better bet. .2-.3 reduction.

7. Headers and full exhaust or cut outs .2 reduction.

8. Ported stock heads .2-.3 reduction.

If it was my money and I was starting over that is the way I would do it. Obviously these are rough estimates on gains but each part can yield those numbers if done correctly and in the same weather.

[DapperDan]

If you already have a 28" Drag pack how much do you think the 26" tires would help ?

[PRAY]

I am thinking .2ish. It takes your 2.77 gear to a 2.97 gear. It doesn't sound like much but it adds up with the 60ft and 4 shifts.

[Turbo_RORO]

Originally Posted by PRAY

The mods I feel will best boost your 1/4 times are as follows in order. 1 and 2 go hand in hand.

1. 17" Race Starts with 26" tires front and back. .3-4 reduction.

2. Tune .3-.4 reduction.

3. Circle D 4C .2+ reduction depending.

4. E85 .2+ reduction depending.

5. Roto-fab CAI w/ dry filter .1-1.5 reduction

6. Ported IM/TB. Take your pick with the MSD or Stock IM. If you skip the converter then the Ported stocker may be a better bet. .2-.3 reduction.

7. Headers and full exhaust or cut outs .2 reduction.

8. Ported stock heads .2-.3 reduction.

If it was my money and I was starting over that is the way I would do it. Obviously these are rough estimates on gains but each part can yield those numbers if done correctly and in the same weather.

Couldn't agree more. Those gains line up pretty much with what I saw change on my car. But with worsening weather. I was surprised how much the trans tune made a difference.

[wrankin]

Originally Posted by PRAY

The mods I feel will best boost your 1/4 times are as follows in order. 1 and 2 go hand in hand.

1. 17" Race Starts with 26" tires front and back. .3-4 reduction.
2. Tune .3-.4 reduction.
3. Circle D 4C .2+ reduction depending.
4. E85 .2+ reduction depending.
5. Roto-fab CAI w/ dry filter .1-1.5 reduction
6. Ported IM/TB. Take your pick with the MSD or Stock IM. If you skip the converter then the Ported stocker may be a better bet. .2-.3 reduction.
7. Headers and full exhaust or cut outs .2 reduction.
8. Ported stock heads .2-.3 reduction.

If it was my money and I was starting over that is the way I would do it. Obviously these are rough estimates on gains but each part can yield those numbers if done correctly and in the same weather.

Very good info. What about very rough costs of each, and I do mean rough.

Bill

[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by PRAY

The mods I feel will best boost your 1/4 times are as follows in order. 1 and 2 go hand in hand.

1. 17" Race Starts with 26" tires front and back. .3-4 reduction.

2. Tune .3-.4 reduction.

3. Circle D 4C .2+ reduction depending.

4. E85 .2+ reduction depending.

5. Roto-fab CAI w/ dry filter .1-1.5 reduction

6. Ported IM/TB. Take your pick with the MSD or Stock IM. If you skip the converter then the Ported stocker may be a better bet. .2-.3 reduction.

7. Headers and full exhaust or cut outs .2 reduction.

8. Ported stock heads .2-.3 reduction.

If it was my money and I was starting over that is the way I would do it. Obviously these are rough estimates on gains but each part can yield those numbers if done correctly and in the same weather.

So if an A8 SS Auto can run 12.1 on a good day then that same car/driver/DA with all those mods should run:

12.1 stock
10.40 using the conservative numbers. (All mods)
09.95 using the more generous numbers (All mods)

If I apply those numbers to my M6 (.2 for DRs only):

12.3 Stock
11.2 (Drs, TB and MSD, E85, LTs, Rotofab)

My best is so far 11.8. Is there .6 more in better driving and better air? I hope so. Time will tell. But I think gearing holds the M6 back. Where are the 4.10s? My next mod some day and maybe Pray Ported Heads.

The Rotofab, by itself gave me zero improvement when comparing similar DA and 60' runs looking at MPH andr ET. But the benefit might be there as the mods pile on.

Side note: I compared a couple of same night runs I lost .1+ running in NPP full time sound stealth mode versus full time Sport mode. And the fans liked the sound much less.

Interesting post Pray.

[C6J]

Ran 12.2 bone stock with 600miles on car

Ran 11.9 bone stock, all season tires. 14000miles on car

[wrankin]

Originally Posted by Fraxum

......I lost .1+ running in NPP full time sound stealth mode versus full time Sport mode. And the fans liked the sound much less.

Anything that let's your car breather easier on the exhaust and/or intake side is going to help, so that makes sense.

Bill

[PRAY]

Originally Posted by Turbo_RORO

Couldn't agree more. Those gains line up pretty much with what I saw change on my car. But with worsening weather. I was surprised how much the trans tune made a difference.

The trans tune is vital. That is what makes the car run. You can flub the fuel and spark and not see a big difference. If you flub a shift point you are sunk.

[PRAY]

Originally Posted by Fraxum

So if an A8 SS Auto can run 12.1 on a good day then that same car/driver/DA with all those mods should run:

12.1 stock
10.40 using the conservative numbers. (All mods)
09.95 using the more generous numbers (All mods)

If I apply those numbers to my M6 (.2 for DRs only):

12.3 Stock
11.2 (Drs, TB and MSD, E85, LTs, Rotofab)

My best is so far 11.8. Is there .6 more in better driving and better air? I hope so. Time will tell. But I think gearing holds the M6 back. Where are the 4.10s? My next mod some day and maybe Pray Ported Heads.

The Rotofab, by itself gave me zero improvement when comparing similar DA and 60' runs looking at MPH andr ET. But the benefit might be there as the mods pile on.

Side note: I compared a couple of same night runs I lost .1+ running in NPP full time sound stealth mode versus full time Sport mode. And the fans liked the sound much less.

Interesting post Pray.

I would like to be able to add it all up but it never seems to work that way. All I know is that I went from 12.3 to 10.99 in the same weather with the mods above minus the heads. Without changing tires and dropping weight and all that, I would say my car is maxed out at 10.60's in around 1K DA. I do think 10.50's with no cam will happen this winter. I think I put out a post of how to do it with just bolt on's in a 1SS a while back.

[wrankin]

Originally Posted by PRAY

I would like to be able to add it all up but it never seems to work that way. All I know is that I went from 12.3 to 10.99 in the same weather with the mods above minus the heads. Without changing tires and dropping weight and all that, I would say my car is maxed out at 10.60's in around 1K DA. I do think 10.50's with no cam will happen this winter. I think I put out a post of how to do it with just bolt on's in a 1SS a while back.

It would seem to be that that as you incrementally mod your car, each 0.1 you knock off will become harder to achieve - the law of diminishing returns. For me, knocking off 0.1 off of my bone stock SS can be accomplished with fairly easily vs. your 10.8 (or whatever your PB is) car. The $ to achieve those 0.1's will also differ by an order of magnitude.

My goal is to go the incremental low $ route to see if I can crack the 12.0 barrier. Ran my PB last weekend 12.546 at 113.35 with a DA of somewhere between 1500 to 2400, depending on the source or method of calc.

Off topic question: Interested in a baseline dyno and a possible tune. Am I able to go back to the OEM tune for warranty purposes fairly easily?

Bill

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by wrankin

It would seem to be that that as you incrementally mod your car, each 0.1 you knock off will become harder to achieve - the law of diminishing returns. For me, knocking off 0.1 off of my bone stock SS can be accomplished with fairly easily vs. your 10.8 (or whatever your PB is) car. The $ to achieve those 0.1's will also differ by an order of magnitude. Yes, the quicker you go, the more difficult it becomes to make further gains.

My goal is to go the incremental low $ route to see if I can crack the 12.0 barrier. Ran my PB last weekend 12.546 at 113.35 with a DA of somewhere between 1500 to 2400, depending on the source or method of calc. Which transmission does your car have?

Off topic question: Interested in a baseline dyno and a possible tune. Am I able to go back to the OEM tune for warranty purposes fairly easily? The ECM has a flash counter so even if you flash it back to stock, they will know it has been flashed and will probably void your warranty. Supposedly there is a flash device out there that avoids changing the counter, but haven't heard of confirmation. By confirmation I mean successfully doing what you are theorizing, flashing back to stock before dealer visit and getting stuff fixed under warranty instead of paying for it themselves.

Bill

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