[DenverTaco07]

Make sure you torque to appropriate ft lbs.

140

[LiqTenExp]

As stated above take your wheels to 140 ft lbs of tq and it will go away. Worked on my ZL1

[The_Coleman]

+5. I hit all of mine with an impact and 14ft/lb torque limiting extension and no noise now. I will say that the lugs turned a quarter turn or more each which was a bit disconcerting.

[bub]

Originally Posted by LiqTenExp

As stated above take your wheels to 140 ft lbs of tq and it will go away. Worked on my ZL1

First, congrats on the ZL1. What an awesome car and thanks for hanging with us 1LEr's!

I tried re-torqueing yesterday (just went to 140 on my torque wrench, not by impact/limiting extension as noted by Coleman above tho, so I may try that first or at least go to like 150 on wrench). Unfortunately the clicking noise remained (maybe a hair better, but still noticeable). Would have loved for this to be an easy fix!

Will follow TSB and clean up the wheel hub and disc hat with CRC Brakleen by hand.



Plan to use the RED CRC CAN = the good ole CFC carcinogenic stuff [yeah, its probably not even available in Cali anymore ]. Definitely not the green can enviro friendly stuff - that green can enviro-friendly Brakleen never works as well.

I'll try it soon, if not today if I get the motivation to pull wheels again.

Just put the OEM summer rims and tires back on last weekend tho.

Rotor pic for reference. I suppose that particularly the bare metal (non-painted) wheel contact areas on the rotor hat around the wheel studs need the best cleaning.



May just take it to dealer but don't want to risk them damaging the rims laying them face down on the concrete to clean the hub...Murphy's Law.

[thescreensavers]

Originally Posted by bub

Plan to use the RED CRC CAN = the good ole CFC carcinogenic stuff

Do not spray this on the car directly, apply it to a rag then wipe the surfaces. That stuff will eat paint easily don't want to ruin your caliper!

[bub]

Originally Posted by thescreensavers

Do not spray this on the car directly, apply it to a rag then wipe the surfaces. That stuff will eat paint easily don't want to ruin your caliper!

Agree. Yes, that's the plan...also the TSB states to use a rag.

[Dynomike75]

Don't spray directly on the car, but brake clean will not hurt paint, especially epoxy paint generally used on calipers.

Carburetor cleaner, however, will eat right through the paint/clear, it has no place near a vehicle and should be used on a workbench away from painted surfaces. It comes in a red can from CRC as well, so make sure you do not get it!!

[mjk3888]

Just an FYI, I had the dealer clean the hubs but the ticking came back after about a month. I removed the wheels myself in the garage and cleaned a little surface rust back off and smeared a little bit of anti seize on the mating surfaces. I wasn't sure if this wouldn't cause the noise to come back again, but I knew it would help prevent the surface rust. After about a month this seems to be the trick. I actually only did it to the passenger side front but after a month I still only get ticking from the drivers side wheel. I will remove it and do the same treatment once my ZL1 Addons bolt on lifting points arrive.

I recommend anyone having ticking issues clean the mating surfaces, apply a thin coat of anti seize, then re install the wheels and torque to 140 ft lbs

[FNxR3DNECK]

Does anyone know the number/code for the TSB? I was noticing the ticking during my Auto X event on Sunday so I think I'm going to take it to the dealer this week to get this sorted out, having the right info for the TSB would make it easier.

[mjk3888]

Originally Posted by FNxR3DNECK

Does anyone know the number/code for the TSB? I was noticing the ticking during my Auto X event on Sunday so I think I'm going to take it to the dealer this week to get this sorted out, having the right info for the TSB would make it easier.

I had the TSB performed and it came back after about a month. If you have your own jack I strongly recommend you doing it yourself. They will clean the surface but not apply anti seize to it.

[FNxR3DNECK]

Originally Posted by mjk3888

I had the TSB performed and it came back after about a month. If you have your own jack I strongly recommend you doing it yourself. They will clean the surface but not apply anti seize to it.

Can't do it at my place, and I have dealer like 3 miles away so I'm just going to take it there.

[mjk3888]

Originally Posted by FNxR3DNECK

Can't do it at my place, and I have dealer like 3 miles away so I'm just going to take it there.

Just ask them to put a light coat of anti-seize on the backside of the wheel mating surfaces after they clean them.

[Camaro6717]

Took my front wheels of this weekend and cleaned mating surfaces, all good to go now. If it comes back I'll do like mjk3888 said

[bub]

Originally Posted by mjk3888

Just an FYI, I had the dealer clean the hubs but the ticking came back after about a month. I removed the wheels myself in the garage and cleaned a little surface rust back off and smeared a little bit of anti seize on the mating surfaces. I wasn't sure if this wouldn't cause the noise to come back again, but I knew it would help prevent the surface rust. After about a month this seems to be the trick. I actually only did it to the passenger side front but after a month I still only get ticking from the drivers side wheel. I will remove it and do the same treatment once my ZL1 Addons bolt on lifting points arrive.

I recommend anyone having ticking issues clean the mating surfaces, apply a thin coat of anti seize, then re install the wheels and torque to 140 ft lbs

Definitely want to keep that stuff off the threads I assume, as it will throw your torque #'s way off....just stick to putting it on the flat mating surfaces.

Made that mistake once with some exhaust system studs. The anti-seize dramatically reduces assembly torque to get same bolt tension. Snapped off some exhaust hanger studs that way by accident by over-tightening with anti-seize on the threads. Basically graphite in a grease carrier paste.