[Quick_Wick]

Originally Posted by SoCal Racer

This is a really odd situation because I used a code and it really does not matter what you told them. They take your code and enter it into the database and the computer advises what the code discount is by indicating what the purchase price will be post discount. This is all before you even go to finance to pay for it. They printed mine out and showed it to me, we agreed on the price/discount given...then went to finance to pay...so not sure what is going on here...

...as far as the contract goes if they terminate your signed contract or something like that...you can just give them the car back if they want to do that....I would. Like I said, does not matter what they think you said...the code goes into the computer...those numbers should have been ran to know what your discount really is. It is going to vary depending on your options as well, so I am not sure how they just gave you a random number for you to pay as it is calculated by the code they enter into the system.

Exactly! I texted the supplier code to my sales rep before going in and signing the final paperwork and the number I signed on is what what they came up with! Screen shot even shows "GM Supplier Discount"

[Quick_Wick]

Originally Posted by pwells18

OP- what is the dealer saying at this point....??
-ask them...what do we need to do to put this to bed..
it is obviously worth it to you..to split the difference..1k to hire a lawyer isnt happening..(my lifelong advice there, for free)
it sucks!! pure n simple..but life aint fair :(
-

Update:

At this point, dealer is expecting me to come in ASAP (before 5pm, which I can't because I'm at work) and either:
1.) give them a check for the difference of Employee vs. Supplier pricing ($2.4k).
2.) Add the $2.4K to the loan (monthly payments will go up slightly).
3.) Give them a Employee Code and they will call it a day (which I have tried to reach all my connections and I can't get one)

I really would like to settle with option #3, but looks unlikely unless someone is willing to help me out.

I am not saying I deserve the employee pricing or I am entitled to it, but at this point it is more of the concept of them messing up, showing me wrong numbers, me pulling the trigger and shaking their hand and them calling me after the transaction and them being like "ut-oh, we made a boo boo, come back and pay and fix it.

I have reached out to the lender first hand (Cal. Coast Credit Union) and they say they do not have records of me yet, so obviously dealer is waiting on me to come back and sign the revised contract and holding off.

If the dealer calls me back to ask "Where are you?", I will answer the phone call but I am going to be very straightforward and say, "Hey, I get you guys messed up. You called me out of the blue and you expect me to go back right away and fix your mistake? I need to think about what my options are at this point. Sorry, but I'm too busy enjoying my new car! Talk to you Monday!"

[bucknut2006]

I have purchased probably 10 vehicles using the employee pricing. When you sign the documents, you confirm that you are eligible for the employee pricing and if not, you owe the difference. This is laid out on the GMFamilyfirst.com website if you read the fine print.

[URBAN LEGEND]

You owe it. There is usually an arbitration clause in there. I would split it 50/50. Fair for both.

[Sunsnare98]

Look through your paperwork to see if you signed an employee pricing addendum.

[01pewterz28]

Good luck hope they eat it. Back when my dealership worked the deal on my 2016 Traverse the accepted my Friends and family code, $1500 private offer, $1500 in GM card points. My Priviate offer expired the following day and at the end of the week my sales guy notified me that they me I could not combine the 3 in all close to $3k was lost and they will eat the loss.

Good luck hope it works out for you.

[Ian SS]

Just pay it man. You paid a price you aren't entitled to.

Think of it this way, if THEY OWED YOU $2400 bucks you'd be knuckle deep in their business until they paid you. Dealerships are run by humans, and humans make mistakes.

[DeliveryMan]

They have probably tried this shit before...an easy way for them to make an extra $2000 on a sale. afterwards most ppl will just pay the money cause they have the car.
this is some shady shit

[DeliveryMan]

Originally Posted by Ian SS

Just pay it man. You paid a price you aren't entitled to.

Think of it this way, if THEY OWED YOU $2400 bucks you'd be knuckle deep in their business until they paid you. Dealerships are run by humans, and humans make mistakes.

Wow seriously?

[vtirocz]

Originally Posted by pwells18

- EXCELLENT POINT...keep in mind, in the rare instance you don't "settle"..you will still pay for mileage..but it will be worth every penny..

Why would he pay for mileage on a car he purchased? That doesn't make sense to me.

[vtirocz]

Originally Posted by Ian SS

Just pay it man. You paid a price you aren't entitled to.

Think of it this way, if THEY OWED YOU $2400 bucks you'd be knuckle deep in their business until they paid you. Dealerships are run by humans, and humans make mistakes.

If the paperwork does not explicitly state that he qualified and got a GM employee discount (that he does not qualify for), I don't see how he's obligated to pay more than the agreed upon price. What am I missing here?

[Ian SS]

Originally Posted by vtirocz

If the paperwork does not explicitly state that he qualified and got a GM employee discount (that he does not qualify for), I don't see how he's obligated to pay more than the agreed upon price. What am I missing here?

He's not obligated to pay more. Based on the Supplier code he provided he only qualifies for Supplier pricing. The dealership messed up and undercharged him. Now they want him to either pay the price he was supposed to pay(even the OP admits it was supposed to be a Supplier deal) or return the car. He's not obligated to pay anything extra but if he's not going to pay the price he was supposed to pay he needs to give the car back and not purposefully rack up a ton of miles.

Since it is a finance deal OP literally has no power, they can kill the deal and ask for the car back even if OP coughs up the $2400. They just have to disclose to the next buyer that someone already took it home and the deal fell through.

If you walk out of the grocery store and they say "hey you didnt pay for the milk" do you say "f*ck you" and drive away? No, you go back and pay for the milk.

[PinHead]

They were the one's that made out the contract.
They were the one's that entered the terms, agreed to the terms.
They made the mistake, they eat it.
Its not like they're LOSING any money, even with the discount.
If they want the car back, tell them to have a refund in the form of a cashier's check and you'll return the car.

That;s why we call them Stealers

Look here
http://www.dca.ca.gov/publications/l...tosalesfinanceAUTOMOBILE SALES FINANCE ACT (Rees-Levering Act) - CC 2981-2984.5

Acceleration - CC 2983.3
Buyer Unable to Obtain Financing - CC 2982.9
Buyer's Claims and Defenses - CC 2983.7(a)
Buyer's Remedies - CC 2982.7, 2983, 2983.1, 2984
Change in Contract Terms, Notice Of - CC 2982(h)
Contents of Conditional Sale Contract - CC 2981.9, 2982
No "Cooling Off" Period - CC 2982(r)
Deficiency Judgment - CC 2983.8
Prohibited Contractual Provisions - CC 2983.7
Rescission - CC 1689, 2982.9, 2983, 2983.1
Refund of Downpayment - CC 2982.5 2982.7, 2982.9
Reinstatement/Redemption - CC 2983.2, 2983.3
Repossession/Disposition - CC 2983.2, 2983.3
"Supervised Financial Organizations" - CC 2982.5
Venue - CC 2984.4

[DrkPhx]

Beautiful car. Sucks the dealer screwed up. Isn't there a 3 day rescission period? It's up to you but you can play hardball and tell them you rescind the offer and want your down payment back and will take your business elsewhere.