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Old 06-02-2017, 02:10 PM   #15
kwav8r
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssrallyred View Post
If you signed the paperwork and have a copy I would think its your car. Supplier discount should be a similar amount I would think. Let them apply that.
Diff between Supplier & Employee pricing is about $2K.

To the OP,
Dealer clearly screwed up. If you can't verify the check cleared and the dealership got its money and/or they try to nullify the deal you could try to negotiate to pay half the difference.
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Old 06-02-2017, 02:31 PM   #16
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Just picked up my ZL1! Need Employee Pricing Code!! Help Please!

Quote:
Originally Posted by pwells18 View Post
the CDA is in case they cant fund the deal, even tho it got approval from the lender...it protects the dealer...you got "approved" on the note/lease...and they need some additional paperwork from you(even tho you've picked the car up)- if you dont provide the paperwork, etc...they can ask for the car back..rare..but it happens..


That's what I was thinking. Doesn't matter if it's been funded or paid yet. All parties have a signed agreement that the institution will honor for a specific amount and that amount is still valid. They don't get to change the deal of a signed contract because they want to change the terms. The point of the signature is an agreement to the stated terms and negotiation has ceased due to the agreement. They have missed their chance to play he said she said. But I'm not a lawyer.
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Old 06-02-2017, 02:41 PM   #17
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Typically, they have you sign a document that allows them to correct typos, but if you have a contract that says they'll sell you the car for x amount of dollars, I don't see how they can suddenly change the contract and require you to pay more.

Does the contract say anything about "Employee Pricing"?

I'm not an attorney either.

Rob
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Old 06-02-2017, 02:45 PM   #18
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You're in the driver's seat (pun intended). They don't want what is now a used car back.
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Old 06-02-2017, 02:52 PM   #19
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If the op signed a conditional delivery agreement(standard practice when leased or financed)..he is "at risk" of having the dealer ask for the car back..in practice, im sure he can negotiate ...the dealer does not want the car back..100% correct..except dealers quite often, cut off their noses, to spite their faces..curious as to how this turns out..i hope he doesnt have to give them 1 dime for their mistake...but the CDA is worded to protect the dealer from every angle..
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Old 06-02-2017, 04:06 PM   #20
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Update on this: loan has NOT closed and dealer has not been funded by California Coast Credit Union. Looks like I am going to have to get some legal advice on this. Really hate to do this but I signed a contract and they clearly made a mistake. What makes me upset is they are telling me I said GM Employee Discount when I clearly know it was Supplier we agreed upon and even gave them the code. We even have written evidence of this. The contract does not say supplier or employee pricing, it just states vehicle selling price. If they would just own up to it and make a deal I would be OK with that (maybe halfway?) but they are making me feel like I'm the idiot in the wrong. Do I go in and talk to them or let them sweat a little and have nightmares over the weekend? Threaten to return a car with rolling miles as we speak on it? Thanks for everyone's input.
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Old 06-02-2017, 04:08 PM   #21
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Drive it a lot over the weekend. The more miles it has on it the stronger your leverage.
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Old 06-02-2017, 04:21 PM   #22
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This is on the dealer. If both parties have signed then both parties agree to said deal. If it was me that car would be staying put. I highly doubt they want to make it a legal case for 2K.
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Old 06-02-2017, 04:23 PM   #23
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So, if the contract had stated supplier pricing, as originally agreed to, it would have cost you 2K or 2.4K more?...

If so, get them the employee code they asked for, or pay them the difference. Even though they may have "screwed up" you shouldn't try and get a lesser price than what you originally thought was your supplier deal...

...Good luck.
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Old 06-02-2017, 04:49 PM   #24
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OP- what is the dealer saying at this point....??
-ask them...what do we need to do to put this to bed..
it is obviously worth it to you..to split the difference..1k to hire a lawyer isnt happening..(my lifelong advice there, for free)
it sucks!! pure n simple..but life aint fair :(
-
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Old 06-02-2017, 04:51 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZL1 1LE View Post
Drive it a lot over the weekend. The more miles it has on it the stronger your leverage.
- EXCELLENT POINT...keep in mind, in the rare instance you don't "settle"..you will still pay for mileage..but it will be worth every penny..
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Old 06-02-2017, 05:00 PM   #26
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This is a really odd situation because I used a code and it really does not matter what you told them. They take your code and enter it into the database and the computer advises what the code discount is by indicating what the purchase price will be post discount. This is all before you even go to finance to pay for it. They printed mine out and showed it to me, we agreed on the price/discount given...then went to finance to pay...so not sure what is going on here...

...as far as the contract goes if they terminate your signed contract or something like that...you can just give them the car back if they want to do that....I would. Like I said, does not matter what they think you said...the code goes into the computer...those numbers should have been ran to know what your discount really is. It is going to vary depending on your options as well, so I am not sure how they just gave you a random number for you to pay as it is calculated by the code they enter into the system.
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Old 06-02-2017, 05:22 PM   #27
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IMO get your money back its a 2017 and in 10 days the 2018 starts getting made, if you can hold out for 90 days or less that car will be 15% off if not more.
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Old 06-02-2017, 05:41 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2SSRS@Gen5diy View Post
IMO get your money back its a 2017 and in 10 days the 2018 starts getting made, if you can hold out for 90 days or less that car will be 15% off if not more.


lol that's true too. Make them sweat over the weekend. Then tell them their options are to leave the deal as is or they can have the car back. Then pick it up as used
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