Kooks 2" Header Install (updates as I go) - Page 4

SC88 · 04-25-2017, 09:39 PM

I read this thread and it helped a lot! I wanted to add some info to maybe help some others.

- I too was able to get my manifolds out from the top without removing a valve cover. My hoses and coolant reservoir were removed during the process.

- The shield on the manifolds I didn't need to remove, the rear bolt (closest to the firewall) you think you can't get to without removing it but what I did was squeeze the shield with some channel locks to gain access to the bolt with a gear wrench & socket.

- The Starter does not need to come out like mentioned before. but the shield needs to come off, there is a connector that needs to come unclipped and the wiring harness needs to come off the bracket but with a funky angle you can get the header in without the starter coming completely out. (See pic)

Tip: Put the starter shield on and clip that connector back in before bolting down the header you will never get it on afterwards.

If you have to you can install the headers by yourself. I was able to get the center bolt of each header started with the gasket in then I was able to position the header, move it around to line up the other bolts. It was a PITA but I had no one that could help me when I decided to start the install.

Rinker · 04-26-2017, 05:03 AM

I'll be ordering my Kooks 2' headers and Borla Catback soon. I was considering either ceramic coating the exhaust or wrapping it as a cheaper option. Given the little room you guys seem to have under the hood and the heat problem you're having with the wires, would you guys recommend coating or wrapping them before install?

nukemustang · 04-26-2017, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rinker

I'll be ordering my Kooks 2' headers and Borla Catback soon. I was considering either ceramic coating the exhaust or wrapping it as a cheaper option. Given the little room you guys seem to have under the hood and the heat problem you're having with the wires, would you guys recommend coating or wrapping them before install?

Go with the ceramic coating. I did on my Gen5 and it made a world of difference under the hood.

Tim

04-25-2017, 09:39 PM	#43
SC88 Twin Turbo Drives: 2016 2SS Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Illinois Posts: 290	I read this thread and it helped a lot! I wanted to add some info to maybe help some others. - I too was able to get my manifolds out from the top without removing a valve cover. My hoses and coolant reservoir were removed during the process. - The shield on the manifolds I didn't need to remove, the rear bolt (closest to the firewall) you think you can't get to without removing it but what I did was squeeze the shield with some channel locks to gain access to the bolt with a gear wrench & socket. - The Starter does not need to come out like mentioned before. but the shield needs to come off, there is a connector that needs to come unclipped and the wiring harness needs to come off the bracket but with a funky angle you can get the header in without the starter coming completely out. (See pic) Tip: Put the starter shield on and clip that connector back in before bolting down the header you will never get it on afterwards. If you have to you can install the headers by yourself. I was able to get the center bolt of each header started with the gasket in then I was able to position the header, move it around to line up the other bolts. It was a PITA but I had no one that could help me when I decided to start the install. __________________ Boost, Boost & More Boost Instagram = BoostedSS

04-26-2017, 05:03 AM	#44
Rinker Drives: 17' SS 1LE Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Bay Area California Posts: 41	I'll be ordering my Kooks 2' headers and Borla Catback soon. I was considering either ceramic coating the exhaust or wrapping it as a cheaper option. Given the little room you guys seem to have under the hood and the heat problem you're having with the wires, would you guys recommend coating or wrapping them before install?

User Name		Remember Me?
Password