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Old 01-21-2017, 10:46 PM   #15
BradfordCamaro
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Originally Posted by 00 Trans Ram View Post
What about replacing them with some grade-8 bolts, and then using loctite?
Ummm, NO!. These are not Hardware store bolts.
I would not put Carbon steel bolts on the one piece holding the front suspension to the car.
Use the proper bolts, Alloy Steel, heat treated and the proper grade.
Bolts from the dealer (the right ones) are not expensive
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Old 01-22-2017, 08:59 PM   #16
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ya seems like tempting fate unnecessarily... especially if there only ~$20
If you want to switch/adjust alignment frequently then I would suggest getting properly adjustable units.
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Old 01-22-2017, 09:18 PM   #17
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The idea behind torque to yeild bolts is that the bolt.itself is stretched to a specific point. They are not elastic, where once the nut is released, the bolt goes back to its original position. If you dont replace this stretched bolt, you are now torquing a bolt thats already stretched and then stretching it some more... Not only.will it not be at the proper torque the second, third etc time around, but how many times can you stretch it before it weakens and either breaks while torquing, or gives out under stress (i.e. your track session). Again, why take the chance of possibly wrecking your car over $20 worth of hardware? The engineers have spent a lot of time performing the R&D, just trust that they know what theyre doing..... Can you get by, Im sure you can, but for how long?
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Old 01-22-2017, 09:34 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by GrimReaperSS View Post
The idea behind torque to yeild bolts is that the bolt.itself is stretched to a specific point. They are not elastic, where once the nut is released, the bolt goes back to its original position. If you dont replace this stretched bolt, you are now torquing a bolt thats already stretched and then stretching it some more... Not only.will it not be at the proper torque the second, third etc time around, but how many times can you stretch it before it weakens and either breaks while torquing, or gives out under stress (i.e. your track session). Again, why take the chance of possibly wrecking your car over $20 worth of hardware? The engineers have spent a lot of time performing the R&D, just trust that they know what theyre doing..... Can you get by, Im sure you can, but for how long?
THIS x1000!!! Why is this so hard for some folks to understand?!?!?
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Old 01-22-2017, 10:38 PM   #19
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the MT drivers they stated the car has a slight understeer
Of course it does, liability is job one.
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Old 01-22-2017, 10:47 PM   #20
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and x 10000 on reusing a stretched bolt. Also to the poster stating that they would not use a grade 8 bolt? huh? In this diameter, it probably has 1000lbs (probably closer to 2000) greater shear shear strength than the tty bolt imho.
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Old 01-24-2017, 06:51 PM   #21
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Anybody have a part number for the bolt?
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Old 01-25-2017, 08:29 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by BradfordCamaro View Post
Ummm, NO!. These are not Hardware store bolts.
I would not put Carbon steel bolts on the one piece holding the front suspension to the car.
Use the proper bolts, Alloy Steel, heat treated and the proper grade.
Bolts from the dealer (the right ones) are not expensive
I don't mean something from Home Depot. I mean something from a race shop. Bolts that are meant to go racing. ARP, or similar.

Just something that I learned when I was transforming my T/A from a street car to a race car. I sheared 3 panhard rod bolts, and 2 torque arm bolts. After that, I began replacing every bolt on the car with either Grade 8 or Class 10.9 (SAE or metric, depending on which bolt it was). If a stock bolt came off, it was replaced.

Pic of the torque arm bolts (what's left of them) after a particular race:

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Old 01-25-2017, 09:00 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by GrimReaperSS View Post
The idea behind torque to yeild bolts is that the bolt.itself is stretched to a specific point. They are not elastic, where once the nut is released, the bolt goes back to its original position. If you dont replace this stretched bolt, you are now torquing a bolt thats already stretched and then stretching it some more... Not only.will it not be at the proper torque the second, third etc time around, but how many times can you stretch it before it weakens and either breaks while torquing, or gives out under stress (i.e. your track session). Again, why take the chance of possibly wrecking your car over $20 worth of hardware? The engineers have spent a lot of time performing the R&D, just trust that they know what theyre doing..... Can you get by, Im sure you can, but for how long?
Well said. Also, fyi: SAE Grade 8 is of similar strength to Metric 10.9. There's no SAE equivalent to Metric 12.9. I'm not sure of the grade of the bolts in question, but I certainly would not blindly put on a Grade 8 (especially if the bolt coming off is Metric 12.9), nor would I re-use a yielded bolt. I cannot believe folks will spend ~$40k on a car + cost of track days and then skimp on something so cheap.
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Old 01-25-2017, 09:37 AM   #24
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Well said. Also, fyi: SAE Grade 8 is of similar strength to Metric 10.9. There's no SAE equivalent to Metric 12.9. I'm not sure of the grade of the bolts in question, but I certainly would not blindly put on a Grade 8 (especially if the bolt coming off is Metric 12.9), nor would I re-use a yielded bolt. I cannot believe folks will spend ~$40k on a car + cost of track days and then skimp on something so cheap.
They're not using 12.9 bolts on our cars (he said with some certainty).

While I cannot find definitive information on the 6th gen Camaro, the following list of cars use 10.9 bolts on their TTY applications (crank pulley, suspension, calipers, etc.):

- GTO
- C5 Vette
- 4th Gen F-body
- 5th Gen Camaro
- G8

Now, I'd be perfectly willing to be proven wrong. I don't know. But, GM is not in the practice of losing money. And using a more expensive bolt than is needed would be just that.
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Old 04-19-2017, 10:16 AM   #25
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I just wanted to update this thread and mention that I kept the stock bolts for my past alignment and after a hard day at the track the alignment slipped a tad. I don't know if this is due to the bolts being reused or another issue, but it is worth noting at least. I'm trying to get the part number, I will post it up once I do.
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Old 04-19-2017, 11:35 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by seanblurr View Post
I just wanted to update this thread and mention that I kept the stock bolts for my past alignment and after a hard day at the track the alignment slipped a tad. I don't know if this is due to the bolts being reused or another issue, but it is worth noting at least. I'm trying to get the part number, I will post it up once I do.
Guess I'll found out as well. I got the track alignment done a couple days ago and the shop didn't mention anything about the bolts. Only thing they mentioned was that aftermarket camber bolts would have made the job easier.
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Old 04-19-2017, 11:57 AM   #27
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According to GMparts guy, this is the bolt in question. They did, however, say that GM does NOT list this bolt as TTY and replace.

http://www.thatgmpartsguy.com/oe-gm/11547494
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