[RobsCountach]

Just so everyone knows, I've pulled my stock amp out from the trunk completely. Replaced with a Sound Ordinance 4 channel. Cut off the green plug and splicing RCA's to the low-levels and sticking the speaker wires into the output of my amp. Utilized an 8 gauge to the battery.
Installed a 8" / 50w Bazooka tube for base - tapping into the fronts (its plenty). For power, just stuck the power wire into the same connector as the 8 gauge in the Amp. Works great.
Found a 'switched' power lead in the fuse box for the Amp's remote lead.

Being as the front-end (MyLink) does the bandwidth limiting, you can greatly improve the rears by turning the Amp crossover down to 80hz as it takes some of the hollow sound out. I also gave the rears a little more gain as I like a full - where is it coming from - experience. That's just the audiphile in me. Vehicles have a natural bump of Hz between 80 and 120 anyway, so that helps.

I put 6x9 Infinity referece 2-way in the doors and Pioneer TS series in the rear panels - don't waste your money replacing these unless you change out the amp. No speakers in the rear deck.
The dash speakers are awful, sounding like someone walking thru gravel.
I plan to pull them, see if its better. May or May not replace... Its so loud bouncing off the windshield. The Infinity's may be enough. Will know more tomorrow, but this is personal taste...

I did have a data hum, only when the tail lights came on - Probably the LED module. Solved that with Ground Loop Isolators.

May sound like a lot, but you're swapping it ALL out. Sounds much better.

[GuoShicheng]

Thanks for posting this. Answers a lof of the questions I had.

So does this mean that all 1LTs DO come with that separate amp in the trunk, and not have it integrated into head unit like some thought? Seems like a ridiculous waste of money to me. I'm assuming this is the amp for the 1LT base system? http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/chevrol...name=amplifier

Why the hell would Chevy put a $300 dollar amp in but match it with $33 door speakers that are also supposed to handle the bass? http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/chevrol...position=right

Also, do you know why they decided to limit bandwidth to rear speakers only? Thanks!

[RobsCountach]

Yes, I have the base system in a 1LT. Its a base model, no options (except the paint). System works great. So much better.
The Sound Ordinance is a very sensitve amp, so the turn signals and door chime (only come from front, left speaker) are a litte loud. Might put LOC in there. Crank the gain down a bit coming in; then turn the Amp up.

Originally Posted by GuoShicheng

Thanks for posting this. Answers a lof of the questions I had.

So does this mean that all 1LTs DO come with that separate amp in the trunk, and not have it integrated into head unit like some thought? Seems like a ridiculous waste of money to me. I'm assuming this is the amp for the 1LT base system? http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/chevrol...name=amplifier

Why the hell would Chevy put a $300 dollar amp in but match it with $33 door speakers that are also supposed to handle the bass? http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/chevrol...position=right

Also, do you know why they decided to limit bandwidth to rear speakers only? Thanks!

[GuoShicheng]

Hey, did you end up changing the dash tweeters? If so, what brands were you looking at?

I'm planning on changing out all the speakers but not add a sub (the Pioneer TS-D6902R 2 ways I put in the door are plenty deep for me). I also don't feel like spending the money/time on a seperate amp if I'm not adding sub.

From what you're describing, would it be better to just simply bypass the lines for rear speakers around the factory amp?

Does anyone know why Chevy even put this factory amp into the non Bose systems in the first place if bypassing them with no amp at all results in BETTER sound? lol.

Edit: Reread your post again. So if myLink is what bandwidth limits rears, that means bypassing amp won't fix anything for them, right? What you did was use the amp crossover to also limit the rest of the (high) rear frequencies to same amount as the low freq, and then use amp to boost entire normalized range back up? Is there a reason this can't be done with stock amp?

Thanks for your time, lots of questions I know lol.

[RobsCountach]

Hey,
No, didn't change the dash speakers yet. They're only 2.5" so not sure any change would be that much different. I typically replace the doors with nice 2-ways, then unplug any dash speakers as way too bright bouncing off the windshield.
MyLink has so much compression in the signal, you really need those up there, so can't do that.

To answer your question, the MyLink head does the signal limiting, not the amp (as in my Tahoe). The rear can't be made full spectrum.
To be clear, you do NEED an amplifier - if you remove the factory version - replace with LOCs and a 4-channel amp. Crank the HPF and LPF down and the rear channel up a bit. Helps a lot.

It takes a while to wire, but found it was worth it for me !

Originally Posted by GuoShicheng

Hey, did you end up changing the dash tweeters? If so, what brands were you looking at?

I'm planning on changing out all the speakers but not add a sub (the Pioneer TS-D6902R 2 ways I put in the door are plenty deep for me). I also don't feel like spending the money/time on a seperate amp if I'm not adding sub.

From what you're describing, would it be better to just simply bypass the lines for rear speakers around the factory amp?

Does anyone know why Chevy even put this factory amp into the non Bose systems in the first place if bypassing them with no amp at all results in BETTER sound? lol.

[GuoShicheng]

Originally Posted by RobsCountach

Hey,
No, didn't change the dash speakers yet. They're only 2.5" so not sure any change would be that much different. I typically replace the doors with nice 2-ways, then unplug any dash speakers as way too bright bouncing off the windshield.
MyLink has so much compression in the signal, you really need those up there, so can't do that.

To answer your question, the MyLink head does the signal limiting, not the amp (as in my Tahoe). The rear can't be made full spectrum.
To be clear, you do NEED an amplifier - if you remove the factory version - replace with LOCs and a 4-channel amp. Crank the HPF and LPF down and the rear channel up a bit. Helps a lot.

It takes a while to wire, but found it was worth it for me !

Ok, let me see if I'm understanding you haha. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

What you're doing is taking head unit signal which is speaker level, using LOC to convert to line level, then using your amp crossover to limit the rest of the frequencies such that they are level with the low limited frequencies of the head unit. The amp then equally amps all frequencies up to the correct loudness. The reason you needed LOC was because aftermarket amps require line level input, correct?

If I wanted to keep stock amp, would it be theoretically possible to just use a speaker-level LPF prior to amp, then use factory amp to up rear channels? Thanks for your time.

[RobsCountach]

LOL. No problem.

The LOC is for a few reasons. What you meantioned is true, yes. Also, aftermkt amps are so much better, the door chime and turns are LOUD. Also, without, I picked up a little interference from the LED Tails. Turn the LOCs up (they don't amplify) and the Amp down (then, I turned the rears up just a bit since they're toned down - relative to the front via Mylink - and I like a balance).
The HPF turned down allows most everything to flow; it helps the compression signal.
The LPF turned down because...Cars naturally have a bump in HZ between 80-120. Being as most end at 80, its perfect harmony !

The answer to your last question... Mmm, not sure it'd give you the results you wanted as the 'gain' can't be changed. Plus, the stock amp sucks... You're working with compression, which is difficult to overcome, AND not sure how well that amp would handle more lower HZs. See, I'm not sure IF there's a little bit of a crossover in that amp either. You might try and give, what the stock takes back.

Make sense ?

Originally Posted by GuoShicheng

Ok, let me see if I'm understanding you haha. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

What you're doing is taking head unit signal which is speaker level, using LOC to convert to line level, then using your amp crossover to limit the rest of the frequencies such that they are level with the low limited frequencies of the head unit. The amp then equally amps all frequencies up to the correct loudness. The reason you needed LOC was because aftermarket amps require line level input, correct?

If I wanted to keep stock amp, would it be theoretically possible to just use a speaker-level LPF prior to amp, then use factory amp to up rear channels? Thanks for your time.

[GuoShicheng]

Gotcha. Sorry to keep beating this dead horse then, but from what you're saying, since bandwidth limit is from myLink, even with aftermarket amp you won't get full sound from rear right? Your setup just makes mid/high range freqs sound better from rear without increasing low freq, but that is ok because you have a sub in the back to take care of bass anyways?

[RobsCountach]

Exactly.
Cranking the new amp's rear HP filters down helped a little, as did increasing the gain more so, than in the front, but it's mostly about cleaning up what's there... And using my 8" 50w Bazooka. It fills in gaps.

Originally Posted by GuoShicheng

Gotcha. Sorry to keep beating this dead horse then, but from what you're saying, since bandwidth limit is from myLink, even with aftermarket amp you won't get full sound from rear right? Your setup just makes mid/high range freqs sound better from rear without increasing low freq, but that is ok because you have a sub in the back to take care of bass anyways?

[GuoShicheng]

Originally Posted by RobsCountach

Exactly.
Cranking the new amp's rear HP filters down helped a little, as did increasing the gain more so, than in the front, but it's mostly about cleaning up what's there... And using my 8" 50w Bazooka. It fills in gaps.

Awesome. Thanks very much. I might look at upgrading the rear speakers anyways with some mid-level aftermarket (~$50 a pair) just to junk the OEM crap. Won't spend much on them given the stock amp. Will let ya know if any improvement comes out of it hah.

[bonecrusher5150]

Do you have pictures of your install?

[KingLT1]

I would think adding a amp and a good pair of good 6x9 to the rear deck would be a bigger upgrade then anything else.

[Darth Martel]

With a sub, I don't think 6x9s in the rear deck is necessary. However, if you're talking a choice between one or the other, I guess it's personal preference.

[KingLT1]

I personally like the sound balanced from front and rear...so even with a sub it would make a noticeable difference...and if you could balance the level between the sail panel speakers and fronts, they would have to be driven much harder to sound the same level because of their placement.