[TECHTURTLE]

Hey guys, I'm getting ready to install my E-Force suppercharger and I'm looking for the proper balancer removal and installation tools. After searching I see a 3 claw should work for pulling but what about the install? Everything I look at doesn't match for a 2016 LT1.

Any information / suggestions would be appreciated.

[ProCharger]

Should be able to rent the "Chrysler" style removing tool from your local AutoZone.
Or other auto parts store.

Makes life easy.

[Omega]

I used this, I assume the bolt thread is the same for an LS
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/231559264874


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[brettman]

The removal is easy (3 jaw) install is progressive (belt alinement)

[00 Trans Ram]

Originally Posted by Omega

I used this, I assume the bolt thread is the same for an LS
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/231559264874


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Pretty much what I used. Went to Fastenal and got a 3' length of threaded rod. Cut it off and put on 2 nuts. Probably $10, and I still have 2.5' of rod left.

[brettman]

It's all good (hammer, pry bars..lol) the problem lays with tracking of the belt.
Tampered shaft, tighten TOO much, belt wear....Tracking is the key. Track over, or under...noise. spray don't fix it

[E-Ray]

Braking the bolt loose is going to be the biggest problem.

[travislambert]

This puller works awesome.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6667-Harm.../dp/B000P6UT2I

Breaking the bolt loose is the biggest problem. I used a large strap wrench to hold the pulley.

[80sMetalDude]

Thanks for this post so that OTC version worked fine???

[travislambert]

Originally Posted by 80sMetalDude

Thanks for this post so that OTC version worked fine???

Yeah. I understand that some tools like this are junk, but this tool has decent quality and it has a low profile that makes it just perfect in tight spaces. You won't even need to pull the radiator or anything.

Oh. BTW the A/C belt can be a real pain to remove too without the proper tool. If you overstretch them, they're ruined. In my case I just bought a new one ~$15 so I could cut the old one off. The new belt can be easily installed with a heavy duty zip tie if you do it before fully installing the new pulley.

[ProCharger]

Originally Posted by travislambert

This puller works awesome.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6667-Harm.../dp/B000P6UT2I

Breaking the bolt loose is the biggest problem. I used a large strap wrench to hold the pulley.

You can rent that exact tool from most places.
Thats what I do.


But, the bolt will come right out with a little heat from a MAP gas torch.
Then just put the bar on it, and have your buddy hold the crank.

Shouldn't take to much force to remove it (with a breaker bar of course)


The little heat is the key.

[80sMetalDude]

So is this the bolt in the instructions that in the install they say to torque to 230lbs? This guy isnt doing the install but I did read it!

[brettman]

Originally Posted by 80sMetalDude

So is this the bolt in the instructions that in the install they say to torque to 230lbs? This guy isnt doing the install but I did read it!

What the hell do you care, your not installing your's (twiddle thumb comp)..lol

[SC88]

Originally Posted by travislambert

This puller works awesome.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6667-Harm.../dp/B000P6UT2I

Breaking the bolt loose is the biggest problem. I used a large strap wrench to hold the pulley.

That ^^^^^ puller works, You can find it a lot cheaper on ebay I think I paid $35 shipped.

To remove the crank bolt heat it with a torch for about 20 seconds it will heat up the Loctite and come right off with little to no effort at all.

The Crank bolt is the same spec's used on LS motors so that ebay installer will work as well.

If you want to go ARP the P/N is 234-2504 it has to be torqued to 238 ftlbs but is reusable and you will need a 12point socket I think 1-1/16 is what I used.