[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by RacerX661

you have to have rev match on.

You sure about that? Pretty sure the first time I tried it in my friends car months ago it wasn't on...

[Ian SS]

Pretty sure Rev Match doesn't have to be on.

Some may have difficulties because there is a small activation window. I think the factory activation rpm is 6300 or something. Don't quite remember what it was but I had mine dialed back a few hundred RPM.

[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by Ian@W

Pretty sure Rev Match doesn't have to be on.

Some may have difficulties because there is a small activation window. I think the factory activation rpm is 6300 or something. Don't quite remember what it was but I had mine dialed back a few hundred RPM.

Ah now that my rev limit was raised I would have to change that too. I still don't have HP Tuners yet. Although my car has a HP Tuners tune.

But with no lift shifting won't the timing be pulled back a little? NLS did not seem to help my ETs on my ZL1. Although it was fun.

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by Fraxum

Ah now that my rev limit was raised I would have to change that too. I still don't have HP Tuners yet. Although my car has a HP Tuners tune.

But with no lift shifting won't the timing be pulled back a little? NLS did not seem to help my ETs on my ZL1. Although it was fun.

Yes, NLS drops a tad of timing. I've seen it in logs. NLS is an easy way to rip off high rpm shifts. BUT, you will be quicker if you are a good shifter and just slightly lift for the shift as that doesn't pull timing and the drop is a little less. Basically 80% will be quicker with NLS, 20% (above average shifters) will be quicker with their own technique.

[Cdflyer]

Ironically, I don't lift when I shift. I also start my shift around 6500. Maybe it is working and I don't recognize it. The rpm has always climbed a couple hundred while I shift, and according to other guys at the track, they'll actually hear the slicks bark every time I hit the next gear.

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by Cdflyer

Ironically, I don't lift when I shift. I also start my shift around 6500. Maybe it is working and I don't recognize it. The rpm has always climbed a couple hundred while I shift, and according to other guys at the track, they'll actually hear the slicks bark every time I hit the next gear.

Why are you shifting at 6500? Your stock minus the slicks right? By that point power is trailing off well according to every dyno sheet I've seen. Just curious to your thoughts.

[SSDan]

Originally Posted by SS 1LE

Why are you shifting at 6500? Your stock minus the slicks right? By that point power is trailing off well according to every dyno sheet I've seen. Just curious to your thoughts.

I've read about this debate many a time - shifting just before redline or shifting at the point the power curve starts to drop off. Its a great debate topic because either side can be argued and defended.

So, here is my take for shifting just before redline. The longer you accelerate in the lower gear - the longer you benefit from the multiplier factor for that lower gear even with some drop off after peak power. Most every case where the math is applied there is more power being put down in the lower gear even after the drop off versus the power the next highest gear provides after the shift. The other plus is shifting high in the rpm range makes it more likely the rpm drop from the shift drops you in back in the meat of the power range for that next gear.

I'm honestly not sure which is right. I have no personal experience to share for which produces the best time as I have only been down the drag strip for 5 or so runs and none with my current gen 6.

Just wanted to put the counter point out there for reaction.

note: On the other side of the debate - another plus of shifting a little early is it makes it less likely you will hit the rev limiter which we all know will ruin the time for that run.

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by SSDan

I've read about this debate many a time - shifting just before redline or shifting at the point the power curve starts to drop off. Its a great debate topic because either side can be argued and defended.

So, here is my take for shifting just before redline. The longer you accelerate in the lower gear - the longer you benefit from the multiplier factor for that lower gear even with some drop off after peak power. Most every case where the math is applied there is more power being put down in the lower gear even after the drop off versus the power the next highest gear provides after the shift. The other plus is shifting high in the rpm range makes it more likely the rpm drop from the shift drops you in back in the meat of the power range for that next gear.

I'm honestly not sure which is right. I have no personal experience to share for which produces the best time as I have only been down the drag strip for 5 or so runs and none with my current gen 6.

Just wanted to put the counter point out there for reaction.

note: On the other side of the debate - another plus of shifting a little early is it makes it less likely you will hit the rev limiter which we all know will ruin the time for that run.

I see what you are saying, but in the past that usually doesn't work for me (it may for others). I spent many years bracket racing (and won my season class multiple times ), and while those cars were autos for consistency all my other cars I've drag raced over the years were manuals. So I have lots of seat time. I spent lots of time experimenting with my Coyote Mustang and C5Z with shift points. And in both cases I went a tad slower running out fully to the redline as oppose to shifting a few hundred rpm past the peak power points on those particular cars. As verified by dyno pulls I had made to establish peak power points. I have yet to run my Camaro (only 400 miles on it as of now), so I can't say how it will work out best, but I remember reading on here how a couple of the guys at the top of the manual fast lists that they went quicker shifting at around 6000 rpm. To be honest, I thought the rev limiter on these cars kicked in before 6500 rpm?

[EFI Tuning]

Proper shift points are determined by axle torque. Identical engines with different transmission/rear axle ratios will have different ideal shift points. You want maximum axle torque at any given MPH.

For the A8s I have a Matlab script that takes in the dyno torque curve data and calculates the optimum shift points.

Tim

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by EFI Tuning

For the A8s I have a Matlab script that takes in the dyno torque curve data and calculates the optimum shift points.

Tim

What are the optimum shift points on a stock A8 according to that script?

[EFI Tuning]

1st: 6400 RPM [40 MPH] [3736 ft/lbs -> 3351 ft/lbs]
2nd: 6400 RPM [62 MPH] [2433 ft/lbs -> 2344 ft/lbs]
3rd: 6200 RPM [86 MPH] [1813 ft/lbs -> 1842 ft/lbs]
4th: 6325 RPM [108 MPH] [1408 ft/lbs -> 1423 ft/lbs]
5th: 6225 RPM [141 MPH] [1096 ft/lbs -> 1106 ft/lbs]
6th: 6075 RPM [175 MPH] [907 ft/lbs -> 911 ft/lbs]
7th: 6275 RPM [213 MPH] [721 ft/lbs -> 724 ft/lbs]



Tim

[inkcoloredblack]

I'm pretty new to this but I can't seem to get my 17 m6 1ss to cooperate. I can't get the no lift shift to work or the launch control. These are the steps I take, please someone correct my error if I'm causing the problem.

I am full stop, put the car in track mode, turn on ARM, double tap the traction control to throw it into competitive mode, take my foot off the brake and push the clutch all the way to the floor, and push the gas pedal all the way down. My revs go all the way to red, I let of the gas. It never stops at an rpm and holds it. I also get an error saying service stabilitrak. I let of the gas and it kicks me out of competitive mode.

Any ideas on whats wrong here? Am I supposed to ease into the throttle?

[Cdflyer]

Originally Posted by inkcoloredblack

I'm pretty new to this but I can't seem to get my 17 m6 1ss to cooperate. I can't get the no lift shift to work or the launch control. These are the steps I take, please someone correct my error if I'm causing the problem.

I am full stop, put the car in track mode, turn on ARM, double tap the traction control to throw it into competitive mode, take my foot off the brake and push the clutch all the way to the floor, and push the gas pedal all the way down. My revs go all the way to red, I let of the gas. It never stops at an rpm and holds it. I also get an error saying service stabilitrak. I let of the gas and it kicks me out of competitive mode.

Any ideas on whats wrong here? Am I supposed to ease into the throttle?

When I use launch control, it's clutch all the way down, in first gear. Track mode or sport mode. Double tap the TC to go into competition mode. Floor it. Revs should stabilize at around 4600. Quick, controlled release of the clutch.

Putting it into Competition Mode then hitting the clutch will automatically kick you out of it.

[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by Cdflyer

When I use launch control, it's clutch all the way down, in first gear. Track mode or sport mode. Double tap the TC to go into competition mode. Floor it. Revs should stabilize at around 4600. Quick, controlled release of the clutch.

Putting it into Competition Mode then hitting the clutch will automatically kick you out of it.

With TC off will it still work? I did try it once. The next time it did not work so I must have been doing it wrong after doing it right once by accident. The story of my life.