[JCRhea]

I'm about a thousand miles into my LT1 and am thinking about installing an oil catch can. My dealer says that if a warranty issue comes up and they determine it's from the catch can than there's a chance it would be voided. Nothing but grey area with them. I'm sure GM engineers know what their doing with these motors but it'a also obvious that these catch cans do benefit the motor.

Does anyone have additional information on this? Thanks.

[sub_ETCS_ret]

Originally Posted by JCRhea

I'm about a thousand miles into my LT1 and am thinking about installing an oil catch can. My dealer says that if a warranty issue comes up and they determine it's from the catch can than there's a chance it would be voided. Nothing but grey area with them. I'm sure GM engineers know what their doing with these motors but it'a also obvious that these catch cans do benefit the motor.

Does anyone have additional information on this? Thanks.

I'm not trying to be rude but you should use the search function. Plenty of threads about this already.

[wavsine]

Originally Posted by JCRhea

I'm about a thousand miles into my LT1 and am thinking about installing an oil catch can. My dealer says that if a warranty issue comes up and they determine it's from the catch can than there's a chance it would be voided. Nothing but grey area with them. I'm sure GM engineers know what their doing with these motors but it'a also obvious that these catch cans do benefit the motor.

Does anyone have additional information on this? Thanks.

Most catch cans are worthless. Oil vapor is the enemy of intake valves in a DI engine and most of the catch cans on the market target liquid oil. There are some exceptions, such as the Mann Provent that has a replaceable filter element.

My advce is to run a high quality synthetic oil with a low NOACK that minimizes oil vapor in the engine. An occasional "Italian tuneup" might also help. (Keep the revs up above 3k on the highway for 20 minutes) This will get the intake valves nice and hot which combined with high intake velocities will help burn off light carbon deposits on the intake valves.

[E-Ray]

Here's a link to purchase.
https://www.mishimoto.com/chevrolet-...-can-2016.html

here's some info.
http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showth...ighlight=catch

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by wavsine

Most catch cans are worthless.

Can't agree at all...

I had a 2011 Mustang GT before this car, and that car is not even DI, and when I swapped intakes my stocker was full of oil residue after only 5000 miles. When I added my new intake I also added a catch can and 7500 miles later when I swapped to yet another intake, it was basically spotless. Oil in the intake (and other places) can lower the octane rating of your fuel, which could lead to detention and other issues. For the small amount a good catch can costs, and the ease of installation there is no negative to them, only positives if you ask me, and I had the proof.

[JCRhea]

Originally Posted by sub_ETCS_ret

I'm not trying to be rude but you should use the search function. Plenty of threads about this already.

No hurt feelings here. Thanks for the advice I haven't been on this site very long. No harm reopening an existing thread for new discussions.

[sub_ETCS_ret]

Originally Posted by JCRhea

No hurt feelings here. Thanks for the advice I haven't been on this site very long. No harm reopening an existing thread for new discussions.

Some people feel like you are attacking them. Just wanted you to know that the search will find plenty.

Most of them are under here:

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=231

[JCRhea]

Originally Posted by wavsine

Most catch cans are worthless. Oil vapor is the enemy of intake valves in a DI engine and most of the catch cans on the market target liquid oil. There are some exceptions, such as the Mann Provent that has a replaceable filter element.

My advce is to run a high quality synthetic oil with a low NOACK that minimizes oil vapor in the engine. An occasional "Italian tuneup" might also help. (Keep the revs up above 3k on the highway for 20 minutes) This will get the intake valves nice and hot which combined with high intake velocities will help burn off light carbon deposits on the intake valves.

Thanks.

[wavsine]

Originally Posted by SS 1LE

Can't agree at all...

I had a 2011 Mustang GT before this car, and that car is not even DI, and when I swapped intakes my stocker was full of oil residue after only 5000 miles

If you had liquid oil residue in the intake of a port injected engine after only 5k miles, I suspect you had a problem that should have been addressed prior to the installation of a catch can. Unlike a DI engine, port injected engines wash fuel across the intake valves. Without inspecting your engine, I can't attribute the installtion of the catch can with absolute resolution of your problem because there may be other crankcase ventilation issues at play.

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by wavsine

If you had liquid oil residue in the intake of a port injected engine after only 5k miles, I suspect you had a problem that should have been addressed prior to the installation of a catch can. Unlike a DI engine, port injected engines wash fuel across the intake valves. Without inspecting your engine, I can't attribute the installtion of the catch can with absolute resolution of your problem because there may be other crankcase ventilation issues at play.

Car had zero issues, ran like a top, made over average power, and was in the top five on the stock S197 Coyote list for years too...my old LS1 and LS6 had oil residue on the inside of the intake and TB as well, very common. Catch cans pretty much cured all of this for me, and others I know as well. You know how the pcv system works? You work on late model cars at all?

[cellsafemode]

The can would have to fill up/clog for it to be a warranty issue. The exception being the odd catch-can here or there that asks you to splice into other stuff vs simply sit in-line to the pcv tube leading to your intake/manifold.

So unless you're special and screw up the installation of a normal one... you should be fine.

[wavsine]

Originally Posted by SS 1LE

Car had zero issues, ran like a top, made over average power, and was in the top five on the stock S197 Coyote list for years too...my old LS1 and LS6 had oil residue on the inside of the intake and TB as well, very common. Catch cans pretty much cured all of this for me, and others I know as well. You know how the pcv system works? You work on late model cars at all?

I am well versed in DI engines and have dealt with intake valve carbon fouling in BMW engines. I reiterate, most catch cans (eBay junk) don't work. Many amateurs think there is a benefit but don't fully understand DI. I will repeat, unless you are running a high end catch can such as a Provent that catches oil vapor, you are simply adding another maintenance chore, emptying a catch can. Why do you think BMW has to do walnut shell blasting to remove carbon deposits or are you not familiar with that? Ford has a patented valve reversion schema for their Duratec DI engine that has worked quite well. Many install catch cans on those systems as well out of ignorance. The Duratec has a built in oil separator (not to be confused with a catch can) that drains separated liquid oil back to the crankcase.

Running a low NOACK synthetic oil is the best thing you can do for a DI engine and it does not involve butchering your vehicle.

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by wavsine

I am well versed in DI engines and have dealt with intake valve carbon fouling in BMW engines. I reiterate, most catch cans (eBay junk) don't work. Many amateurs think there is a benefit but don't fully understand DI. I will repeat, unless you are running a high end catch can such as a Provent that catches oil vapor, you are simply adding another maintenance chore, emptying a catch can. Why do you think BMW has to do walnut shell blasting to remove carbon deposits or are you not familiar with that? Ford has a patented valve reversion schema for their Duratec DI engine that has worked quite well. Many install catch cans on those systems as well out of ignorance. The Duratec has a built in oil separator (not to be confused with a catch can) that drains separated liquid oil back to the crankcase.

Running a low NOACK synthetic oil is the best thing you can do for a DI engine and it does not involve butchering your vehicle.

BMW has lots of issues with their DI engines, I won't even get into that mess.

What Ford Duratec engines are you referring to? As far as I know Ford hasn't made a Duratec named car engine since the Mondeo based V6.

Many DI engines have built in oil separators like you describe actually, including the LT1 in the new Camaro. Problem is it is just on the clean side, not on the pcv side...

I personally would never run some Ebay junk on any of my cars. That's as bad as using a Turbonator.

[JCRhea]

Originally Posted by cellsafemode

The can would have to fill up/clog for it to be a warranty issue. The exception being the odd catch-can here or there that asks you to splice into other stuff vs simply sit in-line to the pcv tube leading to your intake/manifold.

So unless you're special and screw up the installation of a normal one... you should be fine.

Not that special..haha. thanks!