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Old 11-01-2016, 04:15 AM   #15
EDFHOBBIES
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Actually running the procharger and eforce both how there setup from the factory the eforce is better. But as you increase boost centrifugal and turbos make more power easier mainly cause they can move more air and tend to generate less heat when squeezing 15 psi or more out of them. I have had all 3 setups, vortec Trim, top mount or PD, and Turbos. The PD in my opinion has the best manners as is most predictable in power. The eforce can be turned up aswell it's no slouch any of these kits will go well past the stock fuel system. Another thing I have noticed is once you get past that 650 whp mark when modding the cars seem to more pain in the azz. The car drives just like stock, idles like stock, is quite like stock going down the highway but once you hit the gas you can really feel the power. On my LS3 eforce I didn't feel the kinda of power even with cam, smaller puller, rotofab, and headers.

No this thing can be installed easily in the garage removing the harmonic balance was the hardest thing.
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Old 11-01-2016, 04:15 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Marine Corps View Post
Why not install a Procharger? What's the performance difference?
I'm waiting on the ECS kit to come out. Basically the same install, but pulleyed down and with a restrictor so it has a wider flatter torque curve.

You could get the same effect with either a restrictor or a wastegate and the procharger if you don't want to wait.

The reports of heatsoak put me right off the edelbrock.
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Old 11-01-2016, 05:40 AM   #17
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The reports of heatsoak put me right off the edelbrock.[/QUOTE]

I guess you didn't see that I ripped of 3 pulls of 551 hp with no loss of power car was heat soaked no cool downs.

Before on the ls3 I would of said hell ya you right but as car gets hot or heat soak the loss of power is not noticabe like the ls3 was.

Also I think the eforce is a far cleaner look..

Like I said if you not shooting for high power the eforce is pretty dam good and nice warranty and expert tech assistance. Pushing aby kits going to require a LT4 fuel setup and gonna get a little expensive. Then you going to need tires to hold power, then doing that you have to upgrade axels.. and if your auto your have to do something w the tranny. So power goals, budget, and appearance should all be considered.
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Old 11-01-2016, 10:15 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Marine Corps View Post
Wow! Talk about a radical install. It may be easy for 3 experienced mechanics to install (although it sounded like it was their first time) I can't imagine installing the SC in ones garage. You would have to have professional help. In the real world labor alone would have been extremely expensive. I would think at least 15 hours at $150 an hour. It also doesn't look reversible without spending more serious $$. Why not install a Procharger? What's the performance difference?
Even though I had mine installed for warranty purposes, I don't think it would be that hard of an install. I have the installation instructions and there is nothing exotic about the install. You would just need to take your time and follow the manual. If you can change out and intake manifold and do radiator work, you could do it yourself. The kit is very complete. Probably a full weekend with refreshment breaks.

And it's reversible. You have the stock tune stored in the SCT unit.

We've been talking a lot on this sub-forum about the relatively high E-Force IATs, but that's not necessarily translating into a heat soak/power reduction issue. I have yet to see a noticeable power loss on even 95*+ days. Edelbrock placed the IAT sensor right on top of the head intake runner to ensure a "worst case" environment and tuned to that condition. One E-Force person had an issue with COTS during a dyno run, but hasn't repeated it yet. I'm going to fiddle With the IATs, but that is just me doing my hobby thing, not fixing a broken system.

Honestly, nothing wrong with the Procharger system, but I've been messing around with turbo systems for quite a while and I'm really enjoying the power delivery of the PD compared to my turbo systems. Besides, with the quiet running and N/A like seamless power, the E-Force is just flat sneaky.
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Old 11-01-2016, 10:30 AM   #19
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When I shut the motor off the IATS are 190.. after some driving they sneak back down to 120s.. this is with 90s weather. Under hard long 3rd and 4th gear roll racing I see them get to almost 150 but they instantly come back to 135 or so and a few seconds more of driving back to 120s..
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Old 11-01-2016, 11:11 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES View Post
Actually running the procharger and eforce both how there setup from the factory the eforce is better. But as you increase boost centrifugal and turbos make more power easier mainly cause they can move more air and tend to generate less heat when squeezing 15 psi or more out of them. I have had all 3 setups, vortec Trim, top mount or PD, and Turbos. The PD in my opinion has the best manners as is most predictable in power. The eforce can be turned up aswell it's no slouch any of these kits will go well past the stock fuel system. Another thing I have noticed is once you get past that 650 whp mark when modding the cars seem to more pain in the azz. The car drives just like stock, idles like stock, is quite like stock going down the highway but once you hit the gas you can really feel the power. On my LS3 eforce I didn't feel the kinda of power even with cam, smaller puller, rotofab, and headers.

No this thing can be installed easily in the garage removing the harmonic balance was the hardest thing.
How is power more predictable with a PD? I think when we normally discuss power that we're actually discussing torque. With a PD it seems like the torque is full on when you romp it, where a centri is more predictable and linear. Am I wrong with that line of thought?
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Old 11-01-2016, 11:22 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES View Post

I guess you didn't see that I ripped of 3 pulls of 551 hp with no loss of power car was heat soaked no cool downs.
.
I would be road course/tracking my car for upwards of 30 minute stints, not just 3 pulls.
There's been a few guys in the autocross section complaining of high IAT's causing quite a big drop in timing and a noticeable drop in power with the eforce.
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Old 11-01-2016, 11:32 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES View Post
When I shut the motor off the IATS are 190.. after some driving they sneak back down to 120s.. this is with 90s weather. Under hard long 3rd and 4th gear roll racing I see them get to almost 150 but they instantly come back to 135 or so and a few seconds more of driving back to 120s..
Yep, that's what I get also.

Spent some time talking to the local tuner here about IATs and his take on it is that these numbers are not unreasonably high in that ambient temp. He's seen a lot worse, notably the CTS-V. Would there be a benefit in lowering the IATs? Sure. But like he said, you're getting out of your setup what Edelbrock expects you to get out of it. Anything above your base dyno run with changes to my current E-Force will be an improvement beyond what Edelbrock designed.

That said, he's wanting to help me along with tuning when I'm ready to try a few things. This local shop just announced a partnership with the local Chevrolet dealership to provide stage 1 and stage 2 N/A setups that will be fully covered by GM warranty via the dealership. To me, that says a lot about their skill and knowledge level.
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Old 11-01-2016, 11:54 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyUK View Post
I would be road course/tracking my car for upwards of 30 minute stints, not just 3 pulls.
There's been a few guys in the autocross section complaining of high IAT's causing quite a big drop in timing and a noticeable drop in power with the eforce.
Well FI of any sorts with our cars is a bad idea for this type of racing. A strong NA is a better choice.
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Old 11-01-2016, 12:25 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES View Post
Well FI of any sorts with our cars is a bad idea for this type of racing. A strong NA is a better choice.
Well, from experience, PD blowers tend to come with smaller radiators and the fluid in the cooling system gradually heats up until it cant shed enough heat and you have to let off to let it cool off.

FMIC's tend not to suffer the same fate, if the FMIC isnt big enough it becomes a problem much sooner so they tend to be specced better in the first place.

I would do turbos if not for the cost factor, but a well set up centri seems to be the best compromise for my uses.
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Old 11-01-2016, 01:16 PM   #25
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These guys at eldelbrock... 1st they tell me we don't follow the forums and I get an email stating this.. LOL! " We’ve read on the Camaro6 forum you recently dyno tested the vehicle and made a consistent 550RWHP on hub dynos. That number falls in line with the 93 octane calibration and type of dyno being used. A concern we have is mention of headers being installed. We have not done any testing with aftermarket headers nor do we have any data that would tell us your lambda/AFR will be safe for engine operation"
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Old 11-01-2016, 01:49 PM   #26
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Wow, this is awesome!!
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:07 PM   #27
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Jack, yes they most definitely follow the forums!
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Old 11-02-2016, 03:06 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Atomic Ed View Post
Even though I had mine installed for warranty purposes, I don't think it would be that hard of an install. I have the installation instructions and there is nothing exotic about the install. You would just need to take your time and follow the manual. If you can change out and intake manifold and do radiator work, you could do it yourself. The kit is very complete. Probably a full weekend with refreshment breaks.

And it's reversible. You have the stock tune stored in the SCT unit.

We've been talking a lot on this sub-forum about the relatively high E-Force IATs, but that's not necessarily translating into a heat soak/power reduction issue. I have yet to see a noticeable power loss on even 95*+ days. Edelbrock placed the IAT sensor right on top of the head intake runner to ensure a "worst case" environment and tuned to that condition. One E-Force person had an issue with COTS during a dyno run, but hasn't repeated it yet. I'm going to fiddle With the IATs, but that is just me doing my hobby thing, not fixing a broken system.

Honestly, nothing wrong with the Procharger system, but I've been messing around with turbo systems for quite a while and I'm really enjoying the power delivery of the PD compared to my turbo systems. Besides, with the quiet running and N/A like seamless power, the E-Force is just flat sneaky.
Thanks Atomic Ed for your insight. It's not important to have the fastest SC Camaro SS in my neighborhood, however since I checked most of the options on the order form last August ($51k) I wanted to add a SC. I did just that a couple of months ago. I went with the Procharger due to cost of unit and labor. Kind of funny, the speed shop quoted me $700 labor ($100/hr), but since it was their first Procharger install (they've done other SC and turbos) it took them 12 hours. They stuck with their quote of $700. The result was amazing. Although I haven't had many opportunities to really get on it it really screams. Very happy with the set-up.
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