[jdasnt3]

Just don't wander too much at cars and coffee events. We'd hate to see our cars get the Mustang reputation for running into crowds.

[ssmike]

Some things never change! This was a very common problem with the 5th gens which required poly subframe bushings, aftermarket trailing arms, and poly outer trailing arm bushings to resolve. The subframe bushings helped with the tail wag and trailing arms helped reduce wheel hop. Sounds like similar mods might be needed with the 6th gen as well! I had to do this to my '10 SS when I had it!

[irmb]

Originally Posted by crazydmc

you probably ARE getting wheel spin but these tires don't make any sound when they break loose. also the traction control is minimizing it as well. (without eliminating it, to keep it fun)

that said, wheel spin does make the rear wander (both wheels will spin due to the differential lock up so there is nothing to keep it from going sideways but the traction control, or a good driver)

also, don't "power through it" with the traction control turned off (unless you know what you are doing)... there are plenty of youtube videos of Mustangs doing burnouts... see how the rear end comes around when the driver doesn't take their foot off the gas.

This really doesnt feel like wheel spin.

I've taken my car on closed courses and ripped pretty massive burnouts and hit the skid pad and done figure 8's - all with the traction control off - and this is not what I'm feeling.

It feels like rear wheel torque steer or something. Sort of violent and sudden. It's unsettling to say the least.

[irmb]

Originally Posted by ssmike

Some things never change! This was a very common problem with the 5th gens which required poly subframe bushings, aftermarket trailing arms, and poly outer trailing arm bushings to resolve. The subframe bushings helped with the tail wag and trailing arms helped reduce wheel hop. Sounds like similar mods might be needed with the 6th gen as well! I had to do this to my '10 SS when I had it!

Any threads on this I can read up on?

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by irmb

When I accelerate really hard in 2nd and third gear - the rear end often feels like it's "fish tailing" even though I'm not getting any wheel spin.

Wondering if this is normal? is the possible the rear links are winding up under torque or something?

Anyone else get this?

stock 2016 2ss manual. - I have done a race alignment, wheels tires and lowering springs.

Did it do this before your mods? I've driven a few 6th gens and have never noticed this...your "race alignment" is most likely the culprit. Was rear toe changed?

[mcsoul]

Originally Posted by crankaholic

Yep there is a lot of soft rubber back there and the rear suspension links are made out of stamped steel... all of that stuff flexes. I really used to feel the squirm when powering out of 2nd and 3rd gear corners. I was sure it was my tires until I upgraded the suspension. I would suggest a rear cradle bushing lockout kit, upgraded trailing arms and toe rods. All of that should eliminate most of the flex you'd get on the street. I got mine from BMR and love them, very high quality components.

I wonder which BMR upgrades make the most sense with MRC and a 1LE specifically.

[ssmike]

Originally Posted by irmb

Any threads on this I can read up on?

Here's one of many! http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=293582

[AndyUK]

I would take a look at the BMR rear end braces before poly bushes

[Bluecyclone]

Originally Posted by crazydmc

you probably ARE getting wheel spin but these tires don't make any sound when they break loose. also the traction control is minimizing it as well. (without eliminating it, to keep it fun)

that said, wheel spin does make the rear wander (both wheels will spin due to the differential lock up so there is nothing to keep it from going sideways but the traction control, or a good driver)

also, don't "power through it" with the traction control turned off (unless you know what you are doing)... there are plenty of youtube videos of Mustangs doing burnouts... see how the rear end comes around when the driver doesn't take their foot off the gas.

My 2016 GT will always slide to the right, this a Ford Mustang thang! But, I too have stamped suspension bit's and rubber bushings, BMR & Steeda are on my Christmas list for sure.

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by mcsoul

I wonder which BMR upgrades make the most sense with MRC and a 1LE specifically.

Hard to say yet, as the SS 1LE has many upgrades over the SS.

[raptor5244]

Originally Posted by crazydmc

you probably ARE getting wheel spin but these tires don't make any sound when they break loose. also the traction control is minimizing it as well. (without eliminating it, to keep it fun)

that said, wheel spin does make the rear wander (both wheels will spin due to the differential lock up so there is nothing to keep it from going sideways but the traction control, or a good driver)

also, don't "power through it" with the traction control turned off (unless you know what you are doing)... there are plenty of youtube videos of Mustangs doing burnouts... see how the rear end comes around when the driver doesn't take their foot off the gas.

Agreed, this is just wheelspin and you feel some wiggle as a result of the tires clawing for traction.

[Mountain]

Originally Posted by irmb

1/16'th out in front, 1/16th in in back.

2.5 degree neg camber front, 1.4 degrees in back.

I was just wondering if you, for whatever reason, were running negative (toe-out) in the rear as that would cause wandering and instability of the rear of the car.

I can't comment on the bushing theory, and it's hard to help you without feeling what you're talking about, but I have felt something in the rear of my car, on track, that I would describe as "a numb responsiveness". On the street, I really don't notice much issue with my car but a lesser connectivity to the road in comparison to the front in respect to going over bumps and other road imperfections - I associate this to OE damper tuning (I'm not saying it is bad, just a less connected feeling than the front), but it could be the busings in the rear. In performance driving scenarios (autocross and track day), there is a numbness to what the rear end is doing in regards to weight transfer, but it is not anything extreme. Again, this is in respect to the front end (the front end of the 6th Gen Camaro is REALLY good). In autocross, specifically, I have noticed a difference in traction between the left and right tires. There seems to be a nibble of torque steer, but nothing bothersome - just something I noticed coming from a TrueTrac equipped car (TrueTrac is similar to a Torsen, for those not in the know). Personally, I just associated this to the clutch-type limited slip differential. I was just going to try using less friction modifier. I figured it could also be from the differing torsional forces on the rear axles, as I know one is slightly smaller diameter than the other (from what I read).

[crankaholic]

Originally Posted by mcsoul

I wonder which BMR upgrades make the most sense with MRC and a 1LE specifically.

Well it's hard to say what will work for a 1LE, since GM is upgrading the suspension tuning.

I have a 2SS with MRC and definitely felt a big difference from the rear suspension mods that I did. Although I did a lot at once, I think it's one of those things where each part only adds a little bit but they come together to make a drastic change.

I bought all the available suspension arms with spherical ball joints, but now that I've been driving around on them for a while I think that might have been overkill for a mostly street driven car. I think the upper control arm and toe rod make sense with easy on-car adjustability and they're most responsible for keeping correct alignment under power and while loading the car up in a turn. The trailing arms I would get with poly bushings and no adjustablility, as there's absolutely no need to adjust these for street driving... even if you know what those adjustments do.

The cradle lock out kit is pretty awesome, as it removes like 90% of the deflection while keeping the softer rubber - that really helps with NVH, anyone who drove a car with poly or delrin bushings knows the frequent vibration can be annoying.

There's also two types of movement you get from the rear end... what I thought the OP and a few others were talking about is the flexing of all the components at the rear end under power - it feels sort of like you're breaking traction, but the movements are much smaller than the fishtailing you get in a full wheelspin situation. Breaking traction won't be fixed by upgrading the suspension (edit: it will help reduce wheel hop and keep better alignment, that in turn will provide better traction as the tires are touching the road instead of bouncing around or pointing into an incorrect direction... so there are traction benefits in some situations. I know people will point this out), better and wider tires will be of most help there. If all you care about is the fastest possible acceleration, your money would be better spent on Michelin PSSs. The suspension upgrade will really let you feel what those rear tires and chassis are doing in any situation - instead of the slightly hazy and float-y feeling the stock car has.

Edit 2: less flex will also improve power delivery and response... as less power is wasted on compressing rubber bushings and flexing stamped suspension arms.

[irmb]

Originally Posted by crankaholic

Well it's hard to say what will work for a 1LE, since GM is upgrading the suspension tuning.

I have a 2SS with MRC and definitely felt a big difference from the rear suspension mods that I did. Although I did a lot at once, I think it's one of those things where each part only adds a little bit but they come together to make a drastic change.

I bought all the available suspension arms with spherical ball joints, but now that I've been driving around on them for a while I think that might have been overkill for a mostly street driven car. I think the upper control arm and toe rod make sense with easy on-car adjustability and they're most responsible for keeping correct alignment under power and while loading the car up in a turn. The trailing arms I would get with poly bushings and no adjustablility, as there's absolutely no need to adjust these for street driving... even if you know what those adjustments do.

The cradle lock out kit is pretty awesome, as it removes like 90% of the deflection while keeping the softer rubber - that really helps with NVH, anyone who drove a car with poly or delrin bushings knows the frequent vibration can be annoying.

There's also two types of movement you get from the rear end... what I thought the OP and a few others were talking about is the flexing of all the components at the rear end under power - it feels sort of like you're breaking traction, but the movements are much smaller than the fishtailing you get in a full wheelspin situation. Breaking traction won't be fixed by upgrading the suspension (edit: it will help reduce wheel hop and keep better alignment, that in turn will provide better traction as the tires are touching the road instead of bouncing around or pointing into an incorrect direction... so there are traction benefits in some situations. I know people will point this out), better and wider tires will be of most help there. If all you care about is the fastest possible acceleration, your money would be better spent on Michelin PSSs. The suspension upgrade will really let you feel what those rear tires and chassis are doing in any situation - instead of the slightly hazy and float-y feeling the stock car has.

Edit 2: less flex will also improve power delivery and response... as less power is wasted on compressing rubber bushings and flexing stamped suspension arms.

I'm tracking my car a good bit - I've taken it to Laguna Seca and Thunderhill 5 times in the 5 months I've owned the car.

but it's also a daily driver.

So I want it track capable without going overboard.

I might call Pete at BMR and ask for his input - he seems like a solid, no BS kinda guy.