[fzr100098]

Originally Posted by clanky

2 months go by and mine is broken in right he just did his first oil change. We were riding around doing a few wheelies and stoppies and his bike makes some god awful noises then just stops on him. Take it to the dealership and he had a whole lot problems

This is a classic case of conclusion jumping.

Your buddy may have over-revved the motor, or who knows what - there are plenty of bikes redlined out of the dealership and put down great dyno numbers. It's a myth that "problems take time to surface" - no, the motor makes good compression or it doesn't, I've seen "hard break-in" S1000RRs with 70,000 miles on the clock still making great power numbers.

I used to think synthetic oil should be avoided for break-in but that's also a myth put to rest right on Mobil's website. It's all in the technique. babying the motor "because that's what the book says" is a recipe for lower compression. The manufacturers have to be conservative in their guidelines for liability reasons.

[biggjonn]

I feel the same as most of you guys!! (sheesh) ... but on a positive note, I'm part the way there because I drove mine home from Detroit (to Maryland)

[RonAndersonJr]

I drove mine 800 miles the third day I had it. I used the cruise for the most part of it. But once I hit 1500 miles, I really opened it up and used a lot of the performance settings.

[i007spectre]

I am here at a little over 5000 miles and I feel like I am back in my break in period.

I have one of those insurance devices plugged in, trying to save some money. Been driving like a granny lately, but it says my estimated discount is 40% so its worth it.

[Speedy1975]

Originally Posted by i007spectre

I am here at a little over 5000 miles and I feel like I am back in my break in period.

I have one of those insurance devices plugged in, trying to save some money. Been driving like a granny lately, but it says my estimated discount is 40% so its worth it.

Oh HELL no. Life's too short.

[750x]

What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !


"Why ??

Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't."

[AndyUK]

The manual doesnt say to baby the throttle, it just says to avoid extreme hard acceleration and braking. Be smooth but confident. It does say to avoid running at a constant speed so it basically is advocating acvelerating and decelerating, just not stabbing at the controls like an ape.

No manufacturer is going to advocate doing wheelspins and doughnuts straight off the lot for a variety of reasons.

[00 Trans Ram]

750x is right. But, first, let's think about why we should even consider viewing the "Manufacturer's Recommended Break-In Procedure" with some skepticism.

When you decide to take advice on something, you should always consider the source. Not just "are they qualified", but also, "what are their motivations for giving this advice". In this instance, GM is certainly qualified to give us this advice. But, what are their motivations?

That's a tougher one to answer. But, GM is a business. And, businesses exist to do one thing, and one thing only - make money. Once they have sold you a car, they have made almost all of the money that they will ever make off of you. From the day you drive the car off the lot, their goal becomes "don't lose money" as it concerns your car.

Why is this important? Because they want your car to have the fewest problems during the first 3 years of life. After that, they don't really care what happens to your car (aside from the issue of "reliability" when it comes to buying another car years down the road). So, GM wants your car to have 0 issues during that first 3 years.

Do they care that your car is making only 385rwhp instead of 420? Nope. They only care if you come in with problems and make a warranty claim. So, it's in their best interest to have you baby the car for a while.

I think that we can all agree that a car is most fragile right after it's built. Sure, you can do a "safe" break-in like the manufacturer wants you to. Everything will work fine. But, your car won't EVER live up to its maximum potential. If you break it in for maximum performance, there is a slightly increased chance that you could break something. But, that shouldn't worry you, the owner, too much - because it's covered by a warranty! GM, on the other hand, really doesn't want that to happen. So, they are more than willing to tell you to do without 10% of your HP so that they can avoid a warranty claim.

As 750x stated, break-in is mostly about ring seal. You NEED to get major pressure on those rings to seat them properly, and to make sure that they wear the cylinders properly. If you don't do this, and just let them slowly rub the cylinder walls with no real pressure, then you can easily be losing up to 10% of your available HP. LINK

However, this doesn't mean you should "drive it like you stole it", either. As with most things in life, the best answer is somewhere in the middle. There is no reason to redline the engine for an extended period of time. There's no reason to drive at 55mph in 6th for 1000 miles. But, similarly, there is no real reason to baby it.

Here is what the MAX PERFORMANCE BREAK-IN should say:

For the first drive (if bought brand new, never driven):
- Allow car to come up to temperature, varying engine speeds, while in neutral, between idle and 2000rpm.

- Accelerate at 50% throttle up to 50mph, then use medium brake pressure to bring the car back down to 5mph (do not stop). Repeat this 2 more times.

- Accelerate at 75% throttle up to 50mph, then use hard brake pressure to bring car back down to 5mph (do not stop). Do this twice (not 3x, as above).

- Drive the car normally for at least 5 minutes, at normal speeds (above 35mph) using minimal braking. Park the car.

For the first 100 miles

- Always ensure the car is up to proper operating temperatures when you drive. Avoid making short trips.

- Accelerate at >50% throttle for 2-3 seconds, for an average of every 5-10 miles driven.

- Do not exceed 4,000 rpm for more than 1 second. Do not exceed 4,000 rpm multiple times (no more than 3-4 times) per 20 miles. However, you should exceed 4,000 rpm, at ~75% throttle, at least 1-2 times per 20 miles.

- Do not drive for extended periods above 80 mph. Do not exceed 120 mph.

- Follow all guidelines below until 1,500 miles.

For the first 1,500 mi:
- Do not redline the car for extended periods or numerous times in succession (i.e.: drag racing, top speed runs, road racing, etc.).

- Avoid driving at any one constant speed, fast or slow.

- Do not tow a trailer.

- Avoid downshifting to brake or slow the vehicle when the engine speed will exceed 4,000 rpm.

- Do not let the engine labor. Never lug the engine in high gear at low speeds. With a manual transmission, shift to the next lower gear. This
rule applies at all times, not just during the break-in period.

- Do not participate in racing events, sport driving schools, or similar activities during this break-in period.

- Check engine oil with every refueling and add if necessary. Oil and fuel
consumption may be higher than normal during the first 2,414 km (1,500 mi).

- To break in new tires, drive at moderate speeds and avoid hard cornering for the first 322 km (200 mi). New tires do not have maximum traction and may tend to slip.

- New brake linings also need a break-in period. Avoid making hard stops during the first 322 km (200 mi). This is recommended every time brake linings are replaced.

- Should the vehicle be used for racing or competitive driving (after break-in), the rear axle lubricant must be replaced before hand.

[PackersFan26]

Yikes. I'm at 600 miles and have already redlined mine multiple times. Should probably take it easy until 1500 now ��

[cmitchell17]

If break in was this crucial, the systems engineers could program a restrictive mode for the first 1500 miles to ensure this.

Most likely, as with everything else, its for liability. They want the driver to get used to the vehicle before getting on it and hurting themselves.

[Chief8404]

Originally Posted by 00 Trans Ram

750x is right. But, first, let's think about why we should even consider viewing the "Manufacturer's Recommended Break-In Procedure" with some skepticism.

When you decide to take advice on something, you should always consider the source. Not just "are they qualified", but also, "what are their motivations for giving this advice". In this instance, GM is certainly qualified to give us this advice. But, what are their motivations?

That's a tougher one to answer. But, GM is a business. And, businesses exist to do one thing, and one thing only - make money. Once they have sold you a car, they have made almost all of the money that they will ever make off of you. From the day you drive the car off the lot, their goal becomes "don't lose money" as it concerns your car.

Why is this important? Because they want your car to have the fewest problems during the first 3 years of life. After that, they don't really care what happens to your car (aside from the issue of "reliability" when it comes to buying another car years down the road). So, GM wants your car to have 0 issues during that first 3 years.

Do they care that your car is making only 385rwhp instead of 420? Nope. They only care if you come in with problems and make a warranty claim. So, it's in their best interest to have you baby the car for a while.

I think that we can all agree that a car is most fragile right after it's built. Sure, you can do a "safe" break-in like the manufacturer wants you to. Everything will work fine. But, your car won't EVER live up to its maximum potential. If you break it in for maximum performance, there is a slightly increased chance that you could break something. But, that shouldn't worry you, the owner, too much - because it's covered by a warranty! GM, on the other hand, really doesn't want that to happen. So, they are more than willing to tell you to do without 10% of your HP so that they can avoid a warranty claim.

As 750x stated, break-in is mostly about ring seal. You NEED to get major pressure on those rings to seat them properly, and to make sure that they wear the cylinders properly. If you don't do this, and just let them slowly rub the cylinder walls with no real pressure, then you can easily be losing up to 10% of your available HP. LINK

However, this doesn't mean you should "drive it like you stole it", either. As with most things in life, the best answer is somewhere in the middle. There is no reason to redline the engine for an extended period of time. There's no reason to drive at 55mph in 6th for 1000 miles. But, similarly, there is no real reason to baby it.

Here is what the MAX PERFORMANCE BREAK-IN should say:

For the first drive (if bought brand new, never driven):
- Allow car to come up to temperature, varying engine speeds, while in neutral, between idle and 2000rpm.

- Accelerate at 50% throttle up to 50mph, then use medium brake pressure to bring the car back down to 5mph (do not stop). Repeat this 2 more times.

- Accelerate at 75% throttle up to 50mph, then use hard brake pressure to bring car back down to 5mph (do not stop). Do this twice (not 3x, as above).

- Drive the car normally for at least 5 minutes, at normal speeds (above 35mph) using minimal braking. Park the car.

For the first 100 miles

- Always ensure the car is up to proper operating temperatures when you drive. Avoid making short trips.

- Accelerate at >50% throttle for 2-3 seconds, for an average of every 5-10 miles driven.

- Do not exceed 4,000 rpm for more than 1 second. Do not exceed 4,000 rpm multiple times (no more than 3-4 times) per 20 miles. However, you should exceed 4,000 rpm, at ~75% throttle, at least 1-2 times per 20 miles.

- Do not drive for extended periods above 80 mph. Do not exceed 120 mph.

- Follow all guidelines below until 1,500 miles.

My car is 4B00 awaiting train load and I'm going to give this a try. Everything you say makes sense. Guess I'll change the oil at 500 miles and again at 1500 too.

[00 Trans Ram]

Quick update.

I'm at 7xx miles now. Made a dozen-or-so 0-60 and 1/4-mile runs (full redline, 100% power). Holding gears longer than normal (typically to 3000rpm or so) before shifting.

All 1/4-mile and 0-60 times are right at what the manufacturer and other drivers are seeing. 12.4 1/4-mile and 4-sec 0-60.

Just checked MyChevrolet app. 743 miles.

[Corbu]

I guess tomorrow I will start taking it to the redline

[JCunningham]

anyone know what oil is shipped with the cars? Is it break in oil or Dexos full synthetic? just had my oil changed at 350miles had a slight candy gray to it. ill change it again at 1500. then at 3000 ill put my Amsoil in it.