[shrubby]

After the install of the SC, the shift points (I think) don't quite feel right when cruising. When lightly accelerating from steady cruise speed it seems to chug and not drop a gear until I get into it a little more. I don't remember it being noticeable before the sc.

Question: Should shift points or patterns be adjusted when adding FI? Comparing the stock tune with the custom tune shows no changes to any of the trans settings...

Thanks

[jessrayo]

Originally Posted by shrubby

After the install of the SC, the shift points (I think) don't quite feel right when cruising. When lightly accelerating from steady cruise speed it seems to chug and not drop a gear until I get into it a little more. I don't remember it being noticeable before the sc.

Question: Should shift points or patterns be adjusted when adding FI? Comparing the stock tune with the custom tune shows no changes to any of the trans settings...

Thanks

In tour mode the shifts lag more. With the increased power of forced induction it is way more noticeable. I clearly felt this in my car. If you drive it in sport or track mode it is less noticeable but the reduction in fuel economy is the trade off. I'm not a tuner but I suspect it could be adjusted in the tune. For now I just deal with it most of the time. If I let someone else drive the car I usually switch it to sport mode before I let them get behind the wheel. I end up with about 3 less mpg with it holding the lower gears longer and snapping the shifts quicker.

[shrubby]

Originally Posted by jessrayo

In tour mode the shifts lag more. With the increased power of forced induction it is way more noticeable. I clearly felt this in my car. If you drive it in sport or track mode it is less noticeable but the reduction in fuel economy is the trade off. I'm not a tuner but I suspect it could be adjusted in the tune. For now I just deal with it most of the time. If I let someone else drive the car I usually switch it to sport mode before I let them get behind the wheel. I end up with about 3 less mpg with it holding the lower gears longer and snapping the shifts quicker.

Thanks for info. Your description of the experience is much better than my attempt. I'll post something in the tuning section to see if I can get any input from a tuner.

[toohighpsi]

Normally the SS doesn't need any transmission cal if the pedal and torque tables in the engine side are correctly set. Which cal are you running?

[shrubby]

Originally Posted by toohighpsi

Normally the SS doesn't need any transmission cal if the pedal and torque tables in the engine side are correctly set. Which cal are you running?

How can I tell?

[DisturbedSS]

Originally Posted by shrubby

After the install of the SC, the shift points (I think) don't quite feel right when cruising. When lightly accelerating from steady cruise speed it seems to chug and not drop a gear until I get into it a little more. I don't remember it being noticeable before the sc.

Question: Should shift points or patterns be adjusted when adding FI? Comparing the stock tune with the custom tune shows no changes to any of the trans settings...

Thanks

EXACTLY the issue Im having with the magnuson. If you havent driven the car at least 150 miles since install, I would wait till passing judgement however. Your car is in learning mode - for me it drives different now after 500 miles then when I pulled out from the shop the day after install.

its almost as if you need to catch the acceleration between shifts (more of a feel thing if that makes sense) as when to punch it...there have been times where I believe the bypass valve was active, hit the gas and didnt get the instant low down power. Other times its breathtaking.

There have been several occasions where on heavy accelerating, then immediately taking your foot off the gas it didnt upshift, so I had to paddle shift it manually to get out of too low a gear. This however may be a defense mechanism tuned into the car.

I have the magnuson supplied tune, but have decided to forgo the warranty and get it professionally tuned to fix that issue and add a little more power. What I dont like with the canned tune is if anything is running rich or lean, you wont find out till later. Tuning afterwards can correct issues and better the driving experience. You need to weigh this against any warranty concerns.

Im tuning in conjunction with adding a roto-fab CAI that elbows to the Magnuson.

[shrubby]

Originally Posted by DisturbedSS

EXACTLY the issue Im having with the magnuson. If you havent driven the car at least 150 miles since install, I would wait till passing judgement however. Your car is in learning mode - for me it drives different now after 500 miles then when I pulled out from the shop the day after install.

its almost as if you need to catch the acceleration between shifts (more of a feel thing if that makes sense) as when to punch it...there have been times where I believe the bypass valve was active, hit the gas and didnt get the instant low down power. Other times its breathtaking.

There have been several occasions where on heavy accelerating, then immediately taking your foot off the gas it didnt upshift, so I had to paddle shift it manually to get out of too low a gear. This however may be a defense mechanism tuned into the car.

I have the magnuson supplied tune, but have decided to forgo the warranty and get it professionally tuned to fix that issue and add a little more power. What I dont like with the canned tune is if anything is running rich or lean, you wont find out till later. Tuning afterwards can correct issues and better the driving experience. You need to weigh this against any warranty concerns.

Im tuning in conjunction with adding a roto-fab CAI that elbows to the Magnuson.

Good point, I know I have at least 250 miles on it if not 500. Don't get me wrong, overall I'm very satisfied. I just need it to downshift when adding load without the need to step on it, relatively speaking.

Curiously, what do you see for intake pressure with bypass active? I haven't logged it (will tonight) but I notice with bypass active, I see 2 - 3 PSI. When bypass isn't active, I see anywhere from 4.5 - 9 PSI, depending on the aggressiveness of the acceleration. It's supposed to be the stock 6 PSI but I sometimes even see greater than 9.

I'm going to grab some data tonight so I can make sure I have that right.

[DisturbedSS]

Originally Posted by shrubby

Good point, I know I have at least 250 miles on it if not 500. Don't get me wrong, overall I'm very satisfied. I just need it to downshift when adding load without the need to step on it, relatively speaking.

Curiously, what do you see for intake pressure with bypass active? I haven't logged it (will tonight) but I notice with bypass active, I see 2 - 3 PSI. When bypass isn't active, I see anywhere from 4.5 - 9 PSI, depending on the aggressiveness of the acceleration. It's supposed to be the stock 6 PSI but I sometimes even see greater than 9.

I'm going to grab some data tonight so I can make sure I have that right.

Definitely let me know what your logging comes up with. I forget, did you get yours custom tuned?

I haven't tested intake pressure yet, but will have it tuned and dyno done on nov 8th. Will pass along the results.

[shrubby]

Originally Posted by DisturbedSS

Definitely let me know what your logging comes up with. I forget, did you get yours custom tuned?

I haven't tested intake pressure yet, but will have it tuned and dyno done on nov 8th. Will pass along the results.

So take those numbers with a grain of salt for the time being. I saw these numbers with a plug-in Bluetooth kiwi 3, which I'm not entirely sure of its accuracy. When I went to log the data with the HP I didn't realize I had to create a user defined PID. So doing so today and hopefully have something on paper to provide.

[toohighpsi]

Originally Posted by shrubby

So take those numbers with a grain of salt for the time being. I saw these numbers with a plug-in Bluetooth kiwi 3, which I'm not entirely sure of its accuracy. When I went to log the data with the HP I didn't realize I had to create a user defined PID. So doing so today and hopefully have something on paper to provide.

Which pulley are you running? If it is the as-delivered 98mm then you'll be making 6.5psi up to about 6000 RPM where the volumetic efficiency of the engine will start dropping off and the boost will climb to about 7psi.

[DisturbedSS]

Originally Posted by shrubby

So take those numbers with a grain of salt for the time being. I saw these numbers with a plug-in Bluetooth kiwi 3, which I'm not entirely sure of its accuracy. When I went to log the data with the HP I didn't realize I had to create a user defined PID. So doing so today and hopefully have something on paper to provide.

1 glaring thing Ive noticed after about 500 miles on the maggie...when in automatic mode, if I dont hit the gas at the right time - most of the boost is gone unless I go WOT. Its as if the bypass valve is active and only way to shut off is to get it above 4000RPM. Its become more and more of a common thing over the "re-learning"- process of the car after the ECU flash. Hitting the gas in 1/2/3 gear no issues, but it shifts VERY fast in auto. The day I had it installed it was ALL instantaneous...now it can be choppy at times. From a dead stop its still tire shredding down low however.

Have you experienced the above?

Decided to scrap the stock tune - getting custom tune, roto-fab and kooks LT headers with HF cats installed on the same day. Final pieces to the puzzle. Hopefully the car will run a little more consistent for all that $$$.

Poor mans ZL1