[GreaseMonkey83]

You should try using competition mode with your launches next time. You would basically leave the exact way you do now, slipping the clutch so you don't spin, but at the same time, have your car in competition mode so it holds the rpm at 4k. You can put the throttle all the way down and not have to worry about holding a steady launch rpm. You would probably be deadly consistent then

[Steve 2016 SS]

Originally Posted by SS 1LE

Wait, you'r only shifting at 5000???? You mean 6000?

Nope.... Most every dynos you see the power really falls off around 5500RPM, you may think your still pulling but your not! Shift at 5000,adjust for amount of time to make shift and your around 5500RPM when you change gears. I attached a dyno sheet for you to see. The sheet I attached is one of many online and shifting at 6000 your not pulling anymore.

[Steve 2016 SS]

Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey83

You should try using competition mode with your launches next time. You would basically leave the exact way you do now, slipping the clutch so you don't spin, but at the same time, have your car competition mode so it holds the rpm at 4k. You can put the throttle all the way down and not have to worry about holding a steady launch rpm. You would probably be deadly consistent then

Ya I will for sure, shes in the shop now then off to storage right after that so it will be spring.

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey83

You should try using competition mode with your launches next time. You would basically leave the exact way you do now, slipping the clutch so you don't spin, but at the same time, have your car in competition mode so it holds the rpm at 4k. You can put the throttle all the way down and not have to worry about holding a steady launch rpm. You would probably be deadly consistent then

Yeah, I told him about trying the launch control trick...may help even more, and it's easier on the car. I am still curious as to how he broke an axle on street tires and not dumping the clutch...unless you do a lot of burnouts on the street or simply just had a flukey failure. Only other axle I have heard about that let go was Cdflyer, but he was doing 4000 rpm clutch drops on slicks lol.

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by Steve 2016 SS

Nope.... Most every dynos you see the power really falls off around 5500RPM, you may think your still pulling but your not! Shift at 5000,adjust for amount of time to make shift and your around 5500RPM when you change gears. I attached a dyno sheet for you to see. The sheet I attached is one of many online and shifting at 6000 your not pulling anymore.

Valid point, I don't know why I though the power drop off was higher, like 5800...bottom line it's working for you.

[Steve 2016 SS]

Originally Posted by SS 1LE

Yeah, I told him about trying the launch control trick...may help even more, and it's easier on the car. I am still curious as to how he broke an axle on street tires and not dumping the clutch...unless you do a lot of burnouts on the street or simply just had a flukey failure. Only other axle I have heard about that let go was Cdflyer, but he was doing 4000 rpm clutch drops on slicks lol.

Never Never do burn outs on the street up here the Po Po dont like it! Now at the track,,,, different story Ive asked dealer to see the broken axle so I'll let you guys know!

[R3DLT1]

Originally Posted by 506JTF

I don't think DA should matter.

Tell that to people who see +5000 DA

[Steve 2016 SS]

Originally Posted by R3DLT1

Tell that to people who see +5000 DA

DA is a killer! it will slow you down like nothing else!

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by Steve 2016 SS

Never Never do burn outs on the street up here the Po Po dont like it! Now at the track,,,, different story Ive asked dealer to see the broken axle so I'll let you guys know!

May have been from all your previous drag radial use, maybe your bolts were lose, maybe you just got a bad part...who knows, definitely ask your dealer for an exact diagnosis.

[ULTRAZLS1]

Originally Posted by Steve 2016 SS

Nope.... Most every dynos you see the power really falls off around 5500RPM, you may think your still pulling but your not! Shift at 5000,adjust for amount of time to make shift and your around 5500RPM when you change gears. I attached a dyno sheet for you to see. The sheet I attached is one of many online and shifting at 6000 your not pulling anymore.

but when shifting at 5400 rpm where does it fall back to in relation to shifting at 6400? I was always taught to shift slightly past the peak so rpms drop back down into the heart of the powerband when it hits the next gear.

give it a try shifting close to redline on the same day and report back if you don't mind and have a chance. this is interesting because your results are very good...

I have noticed vids of the auto seem to have the shift completed by around 6000 rpm...and i thought it looked early...hmmm

as far as the axles go...its a manual...tale as old as time...good luck. may want to look into aftermarket axles if it keeps happening. and if you add hp or go even more aggressive tire forget it. go aftermarket

[Ian SS]

The only other time anyone busted an axle was a full on slick. I've been running MT Street s/s (street tires lol ) for about 30 passes now, launching at 3-4k. I've dead hooked quite a few times and never busted an axle.

Nice pass but I don't think it should qualify for stock list. Stock means stock - how the car came off the assembly line. Running stickier tires, regardless if they are "street" tires or not, is NOT STOCK!

[ULTRAZLS1]

Originally Posted by slo_1ss

The only other time anyone busted an axle was a full on slick. I've been running MT Street s/s (street tires lol ) for about 30 passes now, launching at 3-4k. I've dead hooked quite a few times and never busted an axle.

Nice pass but I don't think it should qualify for stock list. Stock means stock - how the car came off the assembly line. Running stickier tires, regardless if they are "street" tires or not, is NOT STOCK!

if it wasn't an issue DSS and G-force etc would be out of business. this has been going on for years with every IRS equipped rear drive car with a manual. It happens with autos too but not as often.But good luck and I hope yours will be fine. Some people are fine for a while. A lot of it is how the person drives. Feathering the clutch a bit and then dead hooking is a whole lot different than just popping the clutch at 4k and dead hooking. that impact from a manual equipped car is what breaks things.

[Cdflyer]

My broken axle happened while using launch control with a smooth, quick release of the clutch. I have a video that shows exactly how much the tire took before the axle gave up. Actually, if you go to Gforce's Facebook page, they posted it. The pass before that, it clicked off my 12.04 with about 3 half rotations of the tire. All on launch control. We'll see if I get a chance to use it again this weekend when I go back for some testing.

Btw, if you use the NHRA correction factors for DA, this little stock car is actually running 11.5x

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by Cdflyer

My broken axle happened while using launch control with a smooth, quick release of the clutch. I have a video that shows exactly how much the tire took before the axle gave up. Actually, if you go to Gforce's Facebook page, they posted it. The pass before that, it clicked off my 12.04 with about 3 half rotations of the tire. All on launch control. We'll see if I get a chance to use it again this weekend when I go back for some testing.

Btw, if you use the NHRA correction factors for DA, this little stock car is actually running 11.5x

The key with tricking the LC seems to be a slowish release of the clutch. Too fast and it can be too harsh and activate LC. See page 21 or so if you haven't for the LC trick...I don't see if done just right how this could break an axle as it's actually a relatively easy launch.