[TSloper]

This tune is a combination of data collected on the Dynojet and on the street. You cannot tune a car exclusively on a Dynojet and claim it is 100% done - even if you are just adjusting WOT. It will help you understand where your timing boundaries need to be but it will not tell if you if your timing is perfect once you get back on the road. You may have clean runs on the Dynojet but then get on the street and find KR popping up when shifting or after much long runs than you get on the Dynojet. The Dynojet is also helpful for determining what safe AFR range gives you the best torque output. If a range is giving you approximately the same output I like to stay at the middle or low end of that range. Going to the lean end is going to potentially increase your propensity for KR.

The midrange of the RPM band responds very well to increased timing. On my car I actually reduced the stock timing advance at 6K+ just a bit as it would consistently see KR around 6200. If I remove it I know I'm only removing as much as needed. If I let the ECM address it I could potentially lose much more timing than I need to. I have not messed with any of the KR or burst knock settings.

The MAF was recalibrated for the Rotofab using my AEM WB. This really wasn't necessary for the Rotofab. It is more that the stock calibration could use some tweaking for your specific car. Only the WOT areas were touched. The partial throttle areas are still stock values. There was just no need to move them. One thing to note if you try to compare my tune to a stock file here. I rescaled the frequency axis to add one more cell at the top end. Pay attention to the Hz label before looking at the cell value to make sure the cells represent the same frequency.

My car...

2016 Camaro SS (A8)
Rotofab intake (dry filter)
CA Performance cat delete pipes
NPP exhaust
BP E10 93 octane fuel

Tune - https://www.dropbox.com/s/q54kyrp4ee..._0012.hpt?dl=0

Tim

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by TSloper

This tune is a combination of data collected on the Dynojet and on the street. You cannot tune a car exclusively on a Dynojet and claim it is 100% done - even if you are just adjusting WOT. It will help you understand where your timing boundaries need to be but it will not tell if you if your timing is perfect once you get back on the road. You may have clean runs on the Dynojet but then get on the street and find KR popping up when shifting or after much long runs than you get on the Dynojet. The Dynojet is also helpful for determining what safe AFR range gives you the best torque output. If a range is giving you approximately the same output I like to stay at the middle or low end of that range. Going to the lean end is going to potentially increase your propensity for KR.

The midrange of the RPM band responds very well to increased timing. On my car I actually reduced the stock timing advance at 6K+ just a bit as it would consistently see KR around 6200. If I remove it I know I'm only removing as much as needed. If I let the ECM address it I could potentially lose much more timing than I need to. I have not messed with any of the KR or burst knock settings.

The MAF was recalibrated for the Rotofab using my AEM WB. This really wasn't necessary for the Rotofab. It is more that the stock calibration could use some tweaking for your specific car. Only the WOT areas were touched. The partial throttle areas are still stock values. There was just no need to move them. One thing to note if you try to compare my tune to a stock file here. I rescaled the frequency axis to add one more cell at the top end. Pay attention to the Hz label before looking at the cell value to make sure the cells represent the same frequency.

My car...

2016 Camaro SS (A8)
Rotofab intake (dry filter)
CA Performance cat delete pipes
NPP exhaust
BP E10 93 octane fuel

This log represents track mode with traction control and stabilitrac off. It is very clean. Weather was in the mid to upper 80s.

Tune - https://www.dropbox.com/s/qlwzyadz46..._0012.hpt?dl=0

Log - https://www.dropbox.com/s/bidgcttnifh1a0u/0012.hpl?dl=0

Tim

Lots of knock retard.

Ted.

[TSloper]

Damn let me check the file I posted. The final one was very clean.

[cleoent]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Lots of knock retard.

Ted.

No need for name calling.
















































j/k

[PRAY]

Would it be possible for you to pull your tune with EFI Live and post or email that. I know you are competent with both.

[TSloper]

Ted,

Thanks for taking a look at that log. I didn't have my filter set right in the KR histogram so it was averaging across the entire log and minimizing the actual offending cell locations. It's now corrected and I went back and tweaked the timing advance to take care of those areas. The link has the latest. Lesson learned... make sure your histogram filters are correct

For those of you that are going to tackle tuning yourself don't just look at the default KR PID. Add the Total Knock Retard PID as well. This PID is very useful in determining when burst knock is active. Burst knock will not show up in the standard KR PID so even though you may be getting 2.0 degrees of KR there may be another 2.0 degrees of burst knock on top of that. In that case your Total Knock Retard would show as 4.0 degrees. Burst knock is great in that the ECU is doing a great job of keeping knock out of the picture but it is also a preemptive measure and may reduce the timing advance more than is needed in a given spot. It's always best to just tune out the KR right upfront. This is more of a street exercise than a dyno exercise (unless you have a load dyno). I still personally think burst knock on a street application is valuable. You never know if you are going to get a crap batch of fuel.

Tim

[TSloper]

PRAY,

I can do that. I don't have my EFI Live unit with me right at this moment but I will grab it and pull the tune for you.

Tim

[PRAY]

Awesome, thanks. I sent you 2 PM'S about some local stuff. If the EFI Live thing is a pain I could pull the tune.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by TSloper

Ted,

Thanks for taking a look at that log. I didn't have my filter set right in the KR histogram so it was averaging across the entire log and minimizing the actual offending cell locations. It's now corrected and I went back and tweaked the timing advance to take care of those areas. The link has the latest. Lesson learned... make sure your histogram filters are correct

For those of you that are going to tackle tuning yourself don't just look at the default KR PID. Add the Total Knock Retard PID as well. This PID is very useful in determining when burst knock is active. Burst knock will not show up in the standard KR PID so even though you may be getting 2.0 degrees of KR there may be another 2.0 degrees of burst knock on top of that. In that case your Total Knock Retard would show as 4.0 degrees. Burst knock is great in that the ECU is doing a great job of keeping knock out of the picture but it is also a preemptive measure and may reduce the timing advance more than is needed in a given spot. It's always best to just tune out the KR right upfront. This is more of a street exercise than a dyno exercise (unless you have a load dyno). I still personally think burst knock on a street application is valuable. You never know if you are going to get a crap batch of fuel.

Tim

No problem buddy.

Ted.

[Atomic Ed]

Tsloper,

Thanks for the tip on KR. Learned something today.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by TSloper

The MAF was recalibrated for the Rotofab using my AEM WB. This really wasn't necessary for the Rotofab. It is more that the stock calibration could use some tweaking for your specific car. Only the WOT areas were touched. The partial throttle areas are still stock values. There was just no need to move them. One thing to note if you try to compare my tune to a stock file here. I rescaled the frequency axis to add one more cell at the top end. Pay attention to the Hz label before looking at the cell value to make sure the cells represent the same frequency.

Tim I've been fooling around with MAF table for two weeks now, how is the part throttle tunning vs WOT done. I only see ONE MAF table? sorry I'm a noob.

[TSloper]

Oldman,

Part throttle and WOT MAF tuning are essentially the same procedure. The big difference is that you have to be more careful with filtering in your histogram for partial throttle because there are so many throttle transitions that can give you less than a clean data set. DFCO can also skew the data if you don't turn it off during this.

Calibrating the MAF really shouldn't take more than 60-90 minutes on a bolt on car. I also don't fit to one single curve. I do a WOT curve fit and then I do a partial throttle curve fit. I then merge the partial throttle range with the WOT range from the two fitted curves. If you don't do this you could end up with WOT data influencing the low frequency areas too much when fitted. Even a small change at the low end can really impact your LTrims.

Also make sure you are putting the ECM into MAF only mode and disabling fuel trim learning.

Tim

[BradfordCamaro]

I wish I could understand what you guys are talking about.
I'm the guy that has to pay someone else and hope they know what they are doing..

[sub_ETCS_ret]

Originally Posted by BradfordCamaro

I wish I could understand what you guys are talking about.
I'm the guy that has to pay someone else and hope they know what they are doing..

I'm with you! I have been looking at taking classes on this for years.