[Atomic Ed]

Originally Posted by Daves1SS

So if you just turn the ignition to on without starting the car, the pump will run? I might have to do the same as you Ed, although I feel I have gotten most of the air out of mine now.

yes, that's correct. The pump should run with just the ignition on.

[EDFHOBBIES]

We just got our car back from All Girls Garage they installed the blower and eldelbrock was kind enough to donate the blower. The car feels great I to can feel some knock retard thrown in at times during pulls or cutting out is what it feels like. This was in Tampa with serious humidity and 90 degree weather. I experienced the same thing in my 2010 I had it retuned and fixed the problem drove it for 4 years never a problem.. the performance it adds is well worth it with the warranty it covers. We have the 1st borla atak system and 1st borla headers they are at home waiting on us as we drive home from Tampa to Houston. I'm pretty sure the headers are going on and a flex fuel sensor and e85 tune is going in with a smaller pulley. My wife is mad cause my TT 2010 camaro is faster and she can't keep up lol..

Shortly these will go on!

Smaller pulley
E85
Headers
CAI
Some type of Can or way to relieve the pressure build up.. very important I didn't have anything on my 10 and I had small leaks everywhere nothing dripping just seepage.

[Atomic Ed]

Wow! Thanks for chiming in here! We'll be looking forward to that airing of the AGG segment with your car highlighted.

We've also come to the conclusion that the Edelbrock base tune is somewhat conservative to keep the warranty conditions viable. I can feel some timing pull-back around 5500 rpm, but fairly smooth overall. The data logs confirm this also.

After some time with running this basic setup, I too see the same list of items as a future upgrade, minus the E85 (not available here). The local performance shop here is very familiar with the LT1 engines and with the above additions and their re-tune, they feel 625 rwhp is easily obtainable, maybe more.

I'm not quite following you completely on the can thing. Are you concerned about positive pressure buildup in the engine? If you are, keep in mind that these engines have an air-oil separator that pulling air/oil from the valve covers, separates the oil out, and returns the air back to the intake. Granted, the S/C may overcome this setup, but the air-oil separator is a relief path.

[EDFHOBBIES]

Yes was concerned abt pos pressure I'm sure the base kit is fine with design jump to 14 to 16 the some -10 stuff is needed..

[Atomic Ed]

Well, I guess I was a little overly enthusiastic about the bleeding of the intercooler. I just finished some hard pulls and the delta IAT temps were about the same. And I'm not seeing any real changes in the IATs on the street. At lest I now know that the system is bled properly.

[EDFHOBBIES]

Wonder if it would help to get the under side of the blower coated to radiate the heat from the valley cover. I like how it's got 2 intakes and a main body before on the ls it was one large piece shouldn't heat soak as bad as the ls one being 3 piece.

Probably end up putting some type of larger tank in the trunk when we turn it a bit.

[Atomic Ed]

Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES

Wonder if it would help to get the under side of the blower coated to radiate the heat from the valley cover. I like how it's got 2 intakes and a main body before on the ls it was one large piece shouldn't heat soak as bad as the ls one being 3 piece.

Probably end up putting some type of larger tank in the trunk when we turn it a bit.

Not a bad idea, but before going with coating the underside, I think I might try just some radiant heat insulator, like a turbo blanket. In fact, I sure I have an old turbo blanket laying around somewhere I can cut up

One thing I want to try is an insulating gasket of either phenolic or nylon material between the heads and the intake mounts. I have access to a hydrojet cutter and will just need to make up a pattern using the intake mounts. 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick should do the trick.

I did this on my Audi and it did make a noticeable difference on IATs as well as timing. I did several checks with an IR thermometer on the underside of the supercharger and the heads and the heads are definitely warmer than the supercharger after a run as well as around town.

[EDFHOBBIES]

Make an extra pair!

[Daves1SS]

Or a few extra pair! I wonder why your IAT's are still so high Ed. Still up to 185 degrees?

[Snowblind]

Originally Posted by Atomic Ed

Well, I guess I was a little overly enthusiastic about the bleeding of the intercooler. I just finished some hard pulls and the delta IAT temps were about the same. And I'm not seeing any real changes in the IATs on the street. At lest I now know that the system is bled properly.

I just read the thread. Their is something not right with your IAT temps and it almost sounds like a blockage or you need to burp the system again. I'm not sure exactly how the Edelbrock system works but I would recommend diconnecting the return tube and letting it dangle while you run a garden hose through the starting port ( like a radiator flush) and check the flow rate that way. I know it sounds primitive but the temps you are reporting can only be 2 things...an improper reading or a disruption of flow by either a foreign particle or air pockets. Like others have said, intake temps above 140 will pull timing.

Good luck and get that Beast running the way it should.

[EDFHOBBIES]

Are you using the hand held tuner that came with our kits for all the data?

[Atomic Ed]

Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES

Are you using the hand held tuner that came with our kits for all the data?

Yes I am, the SCT X4. It's not the easiest to use, but it gets the job done. I do my data logging through the SCT and onto the laptop. Let's me make logging (not values) changes in the field.

[Atomic Ed]

Originally Posted by Daves1SS

Or a few extra pair! I wonder why your IAT's are still so high Ed. Still up to 185 degrees?

Sorry I didn't see this earlier.

This weekend the ambient temps were around 75* F. During the runs, I never got above 150* F. But the delta temps were still around 27* before/after a 12 sec. run. Not too bad, but I still would like to cut 10 -20* F off of that at such a mild ambient temp.

I'm still getting a bubble or three burping out of the system, but nothing like before. Can't help but think I have an airlock up in the "bricks" since I'm still getting a tiny bit of air out each time I cool down and open the system.... like Snowblind said.


Dave, what are you IAT's just cruising around? Mine are about 120-130* F with an ambient of 75*.

If I do set up a water jet cutting, I'll make some extra sets. But I may just do them by hand. A coping saw and a Dremel go pretty quick on Nylon. It's quite the imposition to ask my friend to do the programing and setup. He doesn't mind, but I do.

[Daves1SS]

Originally Posted by Atomic Ed

Sorry I didn't see this earlier.


Dave, what are you IAT's just cruising around? Mine are about 120-130* F with an ambient of 75*.

Upon even first cold start up of the car in high 80 degree outside temps (lunch time drive), it read 128 degrees F. It didn't really start going up until I had made that first WOT run.