Rear Mount Turbo Build - Page 5

Atomic Ed · 07-12-2016, 12:36 AM

I had to stare at the pics for a minute to figure out what you are up to....

And again, some mad skills with a stinger. I've been borrowing a friend's TIG and after seeing your welds, decided it's time to get one for my shop to practice with.

Goertz · 07-12-2016, 10:12 PM

Sorry forgot to take pictures today

The oil system works

single Turbowerx pump, a custom oil sump and a setrab oil cooler and we have 30psi of pressure at the turbo.

all underside charge pipes are 100% done just need to pickup tbolts at napa tomorrow at 7 and get them all clamped tight.
charge pipe going through driver side wheel well finished

all that is left is
Make large 4-4.5" engine bay charge pipe with maf pickup.
mount and install gauges
and pull off my billet intake and re-install factory intake manifold cause not everyone will be running my big monster and I want them to see what they can make on a 100% stock engine with a simple bolt on turbo kit

Fenriel · 07-13-2016, 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ender2664

Can you explain the difference?

Oil less use a special ceramic ball bearing, use coolant lines and use oil cartridges instead of being fed oil from the car. At least that's what I understand, but I'm no expert by any means. I did see a TT rear mount vette use comp oil less the user said it was just fine. No experience myself though.

Fenriel · 07-13-2016, 01:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goertz

Sorry forgot to take pictures today

The oil system works

single Turbowerx pump, a custom oil sump and a setrab oil cooler and we have 30psi of pressure at the turbo.

all underside charge pipes are 100% done just need to pickup tbolts at napa tomorrow at 7 and get them all clamped tight.
charge pipe going through driver side wheel well finished

all that is left is
Make large 4-4.5" engine bay charge pipe with maf pickup.
mount and install gauges
and pull off my billet intake and re-install factory intake manifold cause not everyone will be running my big monster and I want them to see what they can make on a 100% stock engine with a simple bolt on turbo kit

Impressed with the speed and how clean your build is man, looking forward to seeing the results with this monster!

Goertz · 07-13-2016, 12:21 PM

Don't hate on the temp oil setup hanging all ghetto lol.

This oil setup was put together as a proof of concept and just to get it going as I'm still waiting on my custom oil cooler core to come in from Vibrant.

My permanent oil cooler will be conveniently built with the resivor built right into one of the end tanks.
Core is supposed to ship to me the 25th this month.

For the crank case I'm just going to toss a breather filter on the little factory catch tank by the passenger head. Later in a week or so I'll build a nice replacement baffled catch can.

Just need to wire in the wide band, boost gauge, oil gauge and run bov and boost vacuum line.

Goertz · 07-13-2016, 10:21 PM

Now just to get it tuned.

That 50psi oil is the oil system for the turbo

Ian SS · 07-14-2016, 12:04 AM

Damn you spent gobs of money on the oiling system and the turbo and you bought autometer gauges lol.

Goertz · 07-14-2016, 12:08 AM

And I've had that plx m300 since 07

Snowblind · 07-14-2016, 12:46 AM

Cool build man and I have a couple questions about it. I see your intake manifold and was wondering do you have some sort of baffle plate, or do you not have to worry about equal pressure in all cylinders or low pressure areas ? Why did you decide to not go with a front mount intercooler, do you think you will get enough flow through it where it is now ? What tuner are you using ?

Thanks for posting the pics and the progress, looking forward to your results

Goertz · 07-14-2016, 10:57 PM

Intake Manifold design theory, sorry I don't really talk much about that because it has taken me years to get where I am with it. Alot of trial and error. For the most part though I can say your 2 biggest factors of intake manifold design is 1) useable plenum volume. Can your plenum volume support the air flow requirements of your engine at peak ve. and 2) primary (runner) length determines rpm powerband in which the air is at its most dense. you can google helmholtz resonance intake manifold. Basically there is a specific sound wave at which air is actually supercharged (positive pressure over ambient) and you make more power. This sound wave is tuned similar to a trombone via length and volume of a primary

Intercooler placement.
I chose to locate the intercooler where it is to make for a faster install. Generally speaking a factory back bumper is actually a parachute on a car, the airflow tumbles and vortices inside this area so you should get decent airflow to the intercooler. I will actually be venting the back bumper on my car though and eventually but testing out a sort of air scoop on the bottom of the intercooler to help make it pickup even better and flow air freely out the back of the bumper.

Tuner is HP Tuners but will be working with SCT to have a tune on a handheld device to send out with kits when that time comes.

As far as when we are going to get tuned, I have to sit in total anticipation all weekend and wait till Monday/Tuesday of next week to see a number.

We are working diligently to finish machining out our spool valve and as soon as it is ready to install (hopefully Monday) I will also fully header wrap the full exhaust as well as install my turbo blanket.

ender2664 · 07-14-2016, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goertz

Intake Manifold design theory, sorry I don't really talk much about that because it has taken me years to get where I am with it. Alot of trial and error. For the most part though I can say your 2 biggest factors of intake manifold design is 1) useable plenum volume. Can your plenum volume support the air flow requirements of your engine at peak ve. and 2) primary (runner) length determines rpm powerband in which the air is at its most dense. you can google helmholtz resonance intake manifold. Basically there is a specific sound wave at which air is actually supercharged (positive pressure over ambient) and you make more power. This sound wave is tuned similar to a trombone via length and volume of a primary

Intercooler placement.
I chose to locate the intercooler where it is to make for a faster install. Generally speaking a factory back bumper is actually a parachute on a car, the airflow tumbles and vortices inside this area so you should get decent airflow to the intercooler. I will actually be venting the back bumper on my car though and eventually but testing out a sort of air scoop on the bottom of the intercooler to help make it pickup even better and flow air freely out the back of the bumper.

Tuner is HP Tuners but will be working with SCT to have a tune on a handheld device to send out with kits when that time comes.

As far as when we are going to get tuned, I have to sit in total anticipation all weekend and wait till Monday/Tuesday of next week to see a number.

We are working diligently to finish machining out our spool valve and as soon as it is ready to install (hopefully Monday) I will also fully header wrap the full exhaust as well as install my turbo blanket.

You sir are a fountain of knowledge!

Goertz · 07-16-2016, 01:36 PM

so tomorrow we are supposed to machine out our spool valve and monday install and try tuning the car.

I'm thinking now that maybe I should have ran smaller exhaust pipes back to the turbo to help keep spool up. I guess trial and error will be the answer, we'll see soon enough.

I may be rebuilding the exhaust next week if I am not happy with the results. I am currently aiming for full boost no later than 4000rpm (that should be pretty acceptable for a 1000whp turbo at only 8ish lbs boost). If I do not get that then like I said I'll be rebuilding the exhaust.

Currently the exhaust is 2.5" off the headers in the y pipe under the transmission then 3" all the way back to the turbo. If this ends up needing to change I'll be attempting to step it down to 2.25" off the headers and 2.5" back to the turbo. That will be a decrease of approx 141ci so that should deff help keep velocity up greater. The only thing I don't like about decreasing exhaust sizing pre turbo is there will be a pull from the top end hp. I am also considering options such as obtain the 1.1 ar 86mm exhaust housing and us machine it open to the 96mm as this will reduce ar by .22

The spool valve we are working on essentially makes the turbo a variable vain turbo by cutting off one of the scrolls of the turbine housing making it go from a t6 1.32 ar to essentially a t25 (the t6 ports are basically 2 t25 ports side by side) at .66 ar. This is all controlled by a tial internal wastegate actuator (spring is set at 4lbs of boost, idea is set this at approx 1/2 of what you want total boost at so it spools up faster but still gets good cfm flow for big hp at full boost)

Either way I'm sure the next few weeks will all entail alot of trail and error. But the dues will be paid and the best performing kit will eventually be brought to the masses.

Stay tuned for big things to come

JoeAyalaM · 07-16-2016, 01:44 PM

Sound very interesting, bringing the dual scroll technology in. Now I understand what you meant when saying you have some tricks up your sleeve, way to go!

Goertz · 07-16-2016, 02:05 PM

The spool valve isn't our idea I'm not trying tao take someone elses idea and call it my own by any means....

http://www.suprastore.com/spquspva.html

Makes it, we are just designing one of our own and hopefully it will work even better

07-13-2016, 12:21 PM	#61
Goertz Drives: 2016 1SS Auto Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Houston Posts: 530	Don't hate on the temp oil setup hanging all ghetto lol. This oil setup was put together as a proof of concept and just to get it going as I'm still waiting on my custom oil cooler core to come in from Vibrant. My permanent oil cooler will be conveniently built with the resivor built right into one of the end tanks. Core is supposed to ship to me the 25th this month. For the crank case I'm just going to toss a breather filter on the little factory catch tank by the passenger head. Later in a week or so I'll build a nice replacement baffled catch can. Just need to wire in the wide band, boost gauge, oil gauge and run bov and boost vacuum line. Attached Images

07-13-2016, 10:21 PM	#62
Goertz Drives: 2016 1SS Auto Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Houston Posts: 530	Now just to get it tuned. That 50psi oil is the oil system for the turbo Attached Images

07-14-2016, 12:04 AM	#63
Ian SS Drives: 2016 1SS, 2017 JKU Wrangler Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: San Diego Posts: 876 View My Garage	Damn you spent gobs of money on the oiling system and the turbo and you bought autometer gauges lol. __________________ SLO 1SS - sold 1SS MRC NPP 6MT 2018 Ram Rebel 4x4 5.7

07-14-2016, 12:46 AM	#65
Snowblind Drives: '16 2SS / '05 SRT10 Ram / '65 bu Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Philthy Posts: 978	Cool build man and I have a couple questions about it. I see your intake manifold and was wondering do you have some sort of baffle plate, or do you not have to worry about equal pressure in all cylinders or low pressure areas ? Why did you decide to not go with a front mount intercooler, do you think you will get enough flow through it where it is now ? What tuner are you using ? Thanks for posting the pics and the progress, looking forward to your results __________________ H/C SBE 9.80@140 powered by Texas Speed

07-16-2016, 02:05 PM	#70
Goertz Drives: 2016 1SS Auto Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Houston Posts: 530	The spool valve isn't our idea I'm not trying tao take someone elses idea and call it my own by any means.... http://www.suprastore.com/spquspva.html Makes it, we are just designing one of our own and hopefully it will work even better Last edited by Goertz; 07-16-2016 at 02:15 PM.

07-12-2016, 12:36 AM	#57
Atomic Ed Drives: 2001 Audi TT, 2016 Camaro Join Date: May 2016 Location: Eastern Washington Posts: 833	I had to stare at the pics for a minute to figure out what you are up to.... And again, some mad skills with a stinger. I've been borrowing a friend's TIG and after seeing your welds, decided it's time to get one for my shop to practice with.

07-12-2016, 10:12 PM	#58
Goertz Drives: 2016 1SS Auto Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Houston Posts: 530	Sorry forgot to take pictures today The oil system works single Turbowerx pump, a custom oil sump and a setrab oil cooler and we have 30psi of pressure at the turbo. all underside charge pipes are 100% done just need to pickup tbolts at napa tomorrow at 7 and get them all clamped tight. charge pipe going through driver side wheel well finished all that is left is Make large 4-4.5" engine bay charge pipe with maf pickup. mount and install gauges and pull off my billet intake and re-install factory intake manifold cause not everyone will be running my big monster and I want them to see what they can make on a 100% stock engine with a simple bolt on turbo kit

07-14-2016, 12:08 AM	#64
Goertz Drives: 2016 1SS Auto Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Houston Posts: 530	And I've had that plx m300 since 07

07-14-2016, 10:57 PM	#66
Goertz Drives: 2016 1SS Auto Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Houston Posts: 530	Intake Manifold design theory, sorry I don't really talk much about that because it has taken me years to get where I am with it. Alot of trial and error. For the most part though I can say your 2 biggest factors of intake manifold design is 1) useable plenum volume. Can your plenum volume support the air flow requirements of your engine at peak ve. and 2) primary (runner) length determines rpm powerband in which the air is at its most dense. you can google helmholtz resonance intake manifold. Basically there is a specific sound wave at which air is actually supercharged (positive pressure over ambient) and you make more power. This sound wave is tuned similar to a trombone via length and volume of a primary Intercooler placement. I chose to locate the intercooler where it is to make for a faster install. Generally speaking a factory back bumper is actually a parachute on a car, the airflow tumbles and vortices inside this area so you should get decent airflow to the intercooler. I will actually be venting the back bumper on my car though and eventually but testing out a sort of air scoop on the bottom of the intercooler to help make it pickup even better and flow air freely out the back of the bumper. Tuner is HP Tuners but will be working with SCT to have a tune on a handheld device to send out with kits when that time comes. As far as when we are going to get tuned, I have to sit in total anticipation all weekend and wait till Monday/Tuesday of next week to see a number. We are working diligently to finish machining out our spool valve and as soon as it is ready to install (hopefully Monday) I will also fully header wrap the full exhaust as well as install my turbo blanket.

07-16-2016, 01:36 PM	#68
Goertz Drives: 2016 1SS Auto Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Houston Posts: 530	so tomorrow we are supposed to machine out our spool valve and monday install and try tuning the car. I'm thinking now that maybe I should have ran smaller exhaust pipes back to the turbo to help keep spool up. I guess trial and error will be the answer, we'll see soon enough. I may be rebuilding the exhaust next week if I am not happy with the results. I am currently aiming for full boost no later than 4000rpm (that should be pretty acceptable for a 1000whp turbo at only 8ish lbs boost). If I do not get that then like I said I'll be rebuilding the exhaust. Currently the exhaust is 2.5" off the headers in the y pipe under the transmission then 3" all the way back to the turbo. If this ends up needing to change I'll be attempting to step it down to 2.25" off the headers and 2.5" back to the turbo. That will be a decrease of approx 141ci so that should deff help keep velocity up greater. The only thing I don't like about decreasing exhaust sizing pre turbo is there will be a pull from the top end hp. I am also considering options such as obtain the 1.1 ar 86mm exhaust housing and us machine it open to the 96mm as this will reduce ar by .22 The spool valve we are working on essentially makes the turbo a variable vain turbo by cutting off one of the scrolls of the turbine housing making it go from a t6 1.32 ar to essentially a t25 (the t6 ports are basically 2 t25 ports side by side) at .66 ar. This is all controlled by a tial internal wastegate actuator (spring is set at 4lbs of boost, idea is set this at approx 1/2 of what you want total boost at so it spools up faster but still gets good cfm flow for big hp at full boost) Either way I'm sure the next few weeks will all entail alot of trail and error. But the dues will be paid and the best performing kit will eventually be brought to the masses. Stay tuned for big things to come

07-16-2016, 01:44 PM	#69
JoeAyalaM Account Suspended Drives: Audi S6 V8TT, Volvos XC60 & S60R Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: 5000 ft above sea level. Posts: 414	Sound very interesting, bringing the dual scroll technology in. Now I understand what you meant when saying you have some tricks up your sleeve, way to go!

User Name		Remember Me?
Password