subwoofer install? - Page 10

chris227 · 03-26-2016, 12:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gblaue

Let me ask this question. It sounds like most of you that are trying how to figure out how to add an external subwoofer are looking for more (louder) bass output?

Yes, atleast for me. I listen to metal mainly, just want that harder thump. Deep sound. Don't care to have the neighborhood hear me. But I want to feel it. Stocks not cutting it. And even the way I have it now is great except at highway speeds it drops off way to much.

gblaue · 03-26-2016, 05:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris227

Yes, atleast for me. I listen to metal mainly, just want that harder thump. Deep sound. Don't care to have the neighborhood hear me. But I want to feel it. Stocks not cutting it. And even the way I have it now is great except at highway speeds it drops off way to much.

I don't know what the EQ looks like for the car, but I can provide the feedback to the tuning group. I plan on sending my 2017 ZL1 out to the garage for a couple of weeks, when it comes in, and see if they can do a hot tuning for it. I suspect the limitation will be output power. I can only dream of my new ZL1 for now, and wish I could my 12 ZL1 out for ride now.

SuperSound · 03-26-2016, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gblaue

I don't know what the EQ looks like for the car, but I can provide the feedback to the tuning group. I plan on sending my 2017 ZL1 out to the garage for a couple of weeks, when it comes in, and see if they can do a hot tuning for it. I suspect the limitation will be output power. I can only dream of my new ZL1 for now, and wish I could my 12 ZL1 out for ride now.

It would be awesome if they could at least give us a 5 band EQ so we could tailor it ourselves....dreaming I know.

gblaue · 03-26-2016, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperSound

It would be awesome if they could at least give us a 5 band EQ so we could tailor it ourselves....dreaming I know.

Not going to happen.

Ajrothm · 09-03-2016, 01:14 PM

Anyone ever figure out a better way to get bass signal for an aftermarket amp since we don't have Pre-Amp outs? I just installed a nice sub/amp in my car today, I used a cheap LOC and tied into the blue wires at the bose amp... Still pretty much sounds like ass...Does not hit nearly as hard as it should for the hardware I have. Also seems to pick up some weird low frequency noise even with the volume all the way down...(not engine noise)...

I'm just wondering if there is a better location to get the bass signal from? Or maybe I need one of the high tech LOCs?

SuperSound · 09-03-2016, 01:16 PM

Clip the ANC mic wires. That will fix the low frequency sounds. It's been talked about in numerous threads about Bose equipped cars.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

Ajrothm · 09-03-2016, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperSound

Clip the ANC mic wires. That will fix the low frequency sounds. It's been talked about in numerous threads about Bose equipped cars.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

Ok thanks, I guess I need to do some more searching on this as I'm not familiar with the ANC mic functions.. If I cut this wire, what do I lose in functionality? It's not the same mic input for the Bluetooth/phone etc etc right?

I'm still trying to figure out why this system doesn't his like it should, I'm thinking the audio shop may have tapped the wrong wires for the sound input (bass/lows) or something.. Almost like having 1 amp pre amp outputs on aftermarket systems vs 4 amp...

Ajrothm · 09-03-2016, 01:52 PM

Here is what I had installed by a well established/reputable local shop...

JL Audio 10", CS110TG-TW3
JL Audio JX500-1 mono amp

And the wires they tapped from the Bose amp..

SuperSound · 09-03-2016, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ajrothm

Ok thanks, I guess I need to do some more searching on this as I'm not familiar with the ANC mic functions.. If I cut this wire, what do I lose in functionality? It's not the same mic input for the Bluetooth/phone etc etc right?

I'm still trying to figure out why this system doesn't his like it should, I'm thinking the audio shop may have tapped the wrong wires for the sound input (bass/lows) or something.. Almost like having 1 amp pre amp outputs on aftermarket systems vs 4 amp...

ANC=active noise cancelation

So you may notice more road noise that's all.

My understanding is there are actually sub signal wires so they may not have tapped into the right ones. Maybe some of the other guys can tell you which ones.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

Ajrothm · 09-03-2016, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperSound

ANC=active noise cancelation

So you may notice more road noise that's all.

My understanding is there are actually sub signal wires so they may not have tapped into the right ones. Maybe some of the other guys can tell you which ones.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

Thanks..

Apparently you lose the cross fire warning chimes and turn indicator chimes when cutting the ANC wires... So I'm not doing that... Hopefully there is other solutions in the pipeline...

I agree with you that I think they may have tapped into the wrong wires though...Seems like I have half of the power I should coming from the sub....

I mean it hits, more then the factory door speakers, but nothing like it should. I have a 10" in both of my Vettes and both of them hit twice as hard, with way less amp on them, in smaller boxes even...

Hopefully Sub-Thump will finish their harness soon...

SuperSound · 09-03-2016, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ajrothm

Thanks..

Apparently you lose the cross fire warning chimes and turn indicator chimes when cutting the ANC wires... So I'm not doing that... Hopefully there is other solutions in the pipeline...

I agree with you that I think they may have tapped into the wrong wires though...Seems like I have half of the power I should coming from the sub....

I mean it hits, more then the factory door speakers, but nothing like it should. I have a 10" in both of my Vettes and both of them hit twice as hard, with way less amp on them, in smaller boxes even...

Hopefully Sub-Thump will finish their harness soon...

I've not seen anyone mention losing those features. Usually cutting the center channel out does that. You are just removing the mic used for ANC.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

JaxChris · 09-04-2016, 01:59 AM

The center channel is bridged with the front left corner speaker as well. Turn signal, rear parking alert & chimes come through both of those speakers unless you remove the center channel from the mix.

The ANC speaker signal goes out the "sub outputs" which are the speaker outputs for the rear shelf speakers. All the GM systems use the rear most speakers for the ANC cancellation signal away from the forward cabin ANC mic(s).

I'm curious if the Camaro LT non-RS actually has the extra speakers in place already and could upgrade with just a swap of a Bose amp. Reason I ponder this is because I am doing research on this new 2016 Equinox that the woman wanted and came to find out the damn thing has the center channel and rear amp of the upgraded Pioneer system already in there, you only need to swap the amp module to enable it. The stock amp only uses the sub for ANC transmission. What a waste. So now I'm going ordering the Pioneer amp first thing Tuesday to do the swap and unlock the amp and center channel.

There is a JL Stealthbox upgrade available for the Equinox factory sub location as well, but it doesn't produce a clean sound with ANC running through it. They recommend putting a shunt behind the ANC microphone instead of clipping the wire at the harness. I think I may end up doing this and then running a mono-channel bike or marine amp with line-level input from the existing sub connection to boost the Stealthbox power.

Disconnecting the ANC mics in the doors for our Camaros might make more sense than clipping the signal wire to avoid loss of other functions.

This is all just stuff I have read and received emails on. Since I have not done any of it yet, I cannot attest to its' validity. But if the bike or marine amp works for boosting the Equinox sub, I may try something similar on the rear shelf speakers of this Bose system to increase the bass. Right now the Bose system distorts if you set the bass adjustment above 70% in MyLink and it muddies the mids which mutes the highs.

Ajrothm · 09-04-2016, 10:44 AM

I was just thinking about removing the ANC mic wires from the plug at the amp.(try to release the pin and pull the wires out, not cutting them). I don't mind losing the noise cancelling BS but I don't want to lose any of the other warning chimes etc.

After driving it last night, I get so much sub noise (even with the volume all the way down), I'm at the point of pulling the sub/amp stuff out and returning it all, and just live with this crap Bose system. The noise the sub produces at idle and driving in the most annoying thing you can imagine. I literally pulled over and unplugged the RCAs last night just so I could drive it home.

This is problem #1.

The lack of bass/low end sound from the new sub is problem #2.. If I can't fix #1, there is no point to working on #2.

FTL....

Ajrothm · 09-04-2016, 05:36 PM

Well after an entire day in an effort of futility... I give up.

I spent the day experimenting with wiring for the ANC mic to try to solve the terrible buzzing and other weird sounds coming through the sub. I pulled apart the green X3 plug and started pulling the MIC wires one by on to see what effects they had.

Experiment #1
Removed the two input wires to the mic. The noise through the sub was still there, maybe even worse, both at idle and driving... Freaking terrible.

Experiment #2
Remove the two low frequency wires from the ANC mic circuit. So at this point, all 4 MIC wires are disconnected. The humming/buzzing noise through the sub is now gone, bass output seems a bit better...However, I lost the front dash speakers (highs) and I believe I lost something in the door speakers. The door woofers still played but there was no mid and highs anywhere... Also lost the turn indicator chimes.

So this obviously wasn't going to work.

Experiment #3
I made some RCA cables I could tie right into the sub outs(T Taps) from the Bose amp bypassing the line out converter. This didn't work as I had so sub signal at all doing it that way.

This was a fail.

I removed the sub/amp/wiring etc, reassembled the X3 plug and put it all back to stock, everything works normal as usual.

I guess I am gonna just return all of this stereo stuff ($700 worth) since it doesn't hit hard and creates other crap sounds in the car.. Maybe when someone way smarter then me figures out how to make this system work properly with an aftermarket amp and no noise, I'll try this again.

09-03-2016, 01:14 PM	#131
Ajrothm Drives: 2016 Camaro 2SS Join Date: May 2016 Location: League City Tx Posts: 92	Anyone ever figure out a better way to get bass signal for an aftermarket amp since we don't have Pre-Amp outs? I just installed a nice sub/amp in my car today, I used a cheap LOC and tied into the blue wires at the bose amp... Still pretty much sounds like ass...Does not hit nearly as hard as it should for the hardware I have. Also seems to pick up some weird low frequency noise even with the volume all the way down...(not engine noise)... I'm just wondering if there is a better location to get the bass signal from? Or maybe I need one of the high tech LOCs? __________________ 2016 Camaro 2SS, A8 Silver Ice Metalic 2016 C7 Z06, A8 Laguna Blue 10.66@129.15

09-03-2016, 01:16 PM	#132
SuperSound Drives: '17 Camaro 2SS A8 Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Eastern NC Posts: 5,063 View My Garage	Clip the ANC mic wires. That will fix the low frequency sounds. It's been talked about in numerous threads about Bose equipped cars. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk __________________ Current: '17 2SS Hyper Blue, A8, MRC, NPP Past: '99 SS Camaro A4, '73 Camaro 383 A3 "Voices in your head are not considered insider information." 3800 Status - 6/16/16 (Built!) 6000 status - 6/29/16 (Delivered!)

09-03-2016, 01:52 PM	#134
Ajrothm Drives: 2016 Camaro 2SS Join Date: May 2016 Location: League City Tx Posts: 92	Here is what I had installed by a well established/reputable local shop... JL Audio 10", CS110TG-TW3 JL Audio JX500-1 mono amp And the wires they tapped from the Bose amp.. __________________ 2016 Camaro 2SS, A8 Silver Ice Metalic 2016 C7 Z06, A8 Laguna Blue 10.66@129.15

09-04-2016, 10:44 AM	#139
Ajrothm Drives: 2016 Camaro 2SS Join Date: May 2016 Location: League City Tx Posts: 92	I was just thinking about removing the ANC mic wires from the plug at the amp.(try to release the pin and pull the wires out, not cutting them). I don't mind losing the noise cancelling BS but I don't want to lose any of the other warning chimes etc. After driving it last night, I get so much sub noise (even with the volume all the way down), I'm at the point of pulling the sub/amp stuff out and returning it all, and just live with this crap Bose system. The noise the sub produces at idle and driving in the most annoying thing you can imagine. I literally pulled over and unplugged the RCAs last night just so I could drive it home. This is problem #1. The lack of bass/low end sound from the new sub is problem #2.. If I can't fix #1, there is no point to working on #2. FTL.... __________________ 2016 Camaro 2SS, A8 Silver Ice Metalic 2016 C7 Z06, A8 Laguna Blue 10.66@129.15

09-04-2016, 05:36 PM	#140
Ajrothm Drives: 2016 Camaro 2SS Join Date: May 2016 Location: League City Tx Posts: 92	Well after an entire day in an effort of futility... I give up. I spent the day experimenting with wiring for the ANC mic to try to solve the terrible buzzing and other weird sounds coming through the sub. I pulled apart the green X3 plug and started pulling the MIC wires one by on to see what effects they had. Experiment #1 Removed the two input wires to the mic. The noise through the sub was still there, maybe even worse, both at idle and driving... Freaking terrible. Experiment #2 Remove the two low frequency wires from the ANC mic circuit. So at this point, all 4 MIC wires are disconnected. The humming/buzzing noise through the sub is now gone, bass output seems a bit better...However, I lost the front dash speakers (highs) and I believe I lost something in the door speakers. The door woofers still played but there was no mid and highs anywhere... Also lost the turn indicator chimes. So this obviously wasn't going to work. Experiment #3 I made some RCA cables I could tie right into the sub outs(T Taps) from the Bose amp bypassing the line out converter. This didn't work as I had so sub signal at all doing it that way. This was a fail. I removed the sub/amp/wiring etc, reassembled the X3 plug and put it all back to stock, everything works normal as usual. I guess I am gonna just return all of this stereo stuff ($700 worth) since it doesn't hit hard and creates other crap sounds in the car.. Maybe when someone way smarter then me figures out how to make this system work properly with an aftermarket amp and no noise, I'll try this again. __________________ 2016 Camaro 2SS, A8 Silver Ice Metalic 2016 C7 Z06, A8 Laguna Blue 10.66@129.15

09-04-2016, 01:59 AM	#138
JaxChris Drives: '16 2SS GD1 MX0 NPP F55 IO6 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Florida Posts: 1,298	The center channel is bridged with the front left corner speaker as well. Turn signal, rear parking alert & chimes come through both of those speakers unless you remove the center channel from the mix. The ANC speaker signal goes out the "sub outputs" which are the speaker outputs for the rear shelf speakers. All the GM systems use the rear most speakers for the ANC cancellation signal away from the forward cabin ANC mic(s). I'm curious if the Camaro LT non-RS actually has the extra speakers in place already and could upgrade with just a swap of a Bose amp. Reason I ponder this is because I am doing research on this new 2016 Equinox that the woman wanted and came to find out the damn thing has the center channel and rear amp of the upgraded Pioneer system already in there, you only need to swap the amp module to enable it. The stock amp only uses the sub for ANC transmission. What a waste. So now I'm going ordering the Pioneer amp first thing Tuesday to do the swap and unlock the amp and center channel. There is a JL Stealthbox upgrade available for the Equinox factory sub location as well, but it doesn't produce a clean sound with ANC running through it. They recommend putting a shunt behind the ANC microphone instead of clipping the wire at the harness. I think I may end up doing this and then running a mono-channel bike or marine amp with line-level input from the existing sub connection to boost the Stealthbox power. Disconnecting the ANC mics in the doors for our Camaros might make more sense than clipping the signal wire to avoid loss of other functions. This is all just stuff I have read and received emails on. Since I have not done any of it yet, I cannot attest to its' validity. But if the bike or marine amp works for boosting the Equinox sub, I may try something similar on the rear shelf speakers of this Bose system to increase the bass. Right now the Bose system distorts if you set the bass adjustment above 70% in MyLink and it muddies the mids which mutes the highs.

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