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Old 01-30-2016, 10:07 PM   #57
Glen e
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tr6 View Post
That is a good call actually. Didn't think about cutting the extra screws that are ON the blade spoiler. If you do that, you'd only be able to utilize 3 bolts. So 3 bolts and the adhesive strip that's already on it. With my luck, shit will go wrong and fly off when I am @ the Texas Mile... lol.
I thought it was three sets of two… If you only have three bolts on it , then I guess you do have to drill. Never mind… LOL
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Old 01-30-2016, 10:17 PM   #58
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I thought it was three sets of two… If you only have three bolts on it , then I guess you do have to drill. Never mind… LOL
The stock SS wing is three sets of two but if you take it out, blade will only go into 1. So will only be 3 bolts holding it down. But even after drilling, I am calculating a total of 7 bolts with nuts on them and 3 plastic clips of death. I may take off the SS wing tomorrow... So I know FOR SURE the damn amounts instead of having calculated guesses.
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Old 01-30-2016, 10:21 PM   #59
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Quote:
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The stock SS wing is three sets of two but if you take it out, blade will only go into 1. So will only be 3 bolts holding it down. But even after drilling, I am calculating a total of 7 bolts with nuts on them and 3 plastic clips of death. I may take off the SS wing tomorrow... So I know FOR SURE the damn amounts instead of having calculated guesses.
Deliver to your body guy with your ss spoiler off, It'll cut a little bit of labor.
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Old 01-30-2016, 10:52 PM   #60
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Deliver to your body guy with your ss spoiler off, It'll cut a little bit of labor.
That's what I was thinking, appreciate the confirming what I was thinking is a good thing!
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Old 01-30-2016, 11:38 PM   #61
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Sorry if I missed it, how much did the spoiler run delivered from Cultrag?
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Old 01-31-2016, 12:11 AM   #62
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Looks nice Glen!
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Old 01-31-2016, 02:02 PM   #63
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I took off the SS wing and did some better judgement looking at the blade spoiler install. You DEFINITELY do NEED to drill more holes OR you can dremel/saw off the bolts that are ON the blade spoiler itself.

A HUGE update for me on this exploration was the fact that blade spoiler does NOT cover ONE hole left over from the blade spoiler. Blade spoiler girth is about an inch short to cover it.

I apologize if I have mislead people but I did my best to mention that it all was my GUESS and estimations to the best of my knowledge given the real information I had to work with. If you look at the install guide, there is no mention of a hole left over or anything. Anyhow... Here are some pictures below:







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Old 01-31-2016, 02:11 PM   #64
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Ill bet Lupe at river city could tackle this and make a very thin piece of paintable mylar to go underblade and over hole, then factory paint match.

I bet one of the vendors will solve this.
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Old 01-31-2016, 02:15 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tr6 View Post
I took off the SS wing and did some better judgement looking at the blade spoiler install. You DEFINITELY do NEED to drill more holes OR you can dremel/saw off the bolts that are ON the blade spoiler itself.

A HUGE update for me on this exploration was the fact that blade spoiler does NOT cover ONE hole left over from the blade spoiler. Blade spoiler girth is about an inch short to cover it.

I apologize if I have mislead people but I did my best to mention that it all was my GUESS and estimations to the best of my knowledge given the real information I had to work with. If you look at the install guide, there is no mention of a hole left over or anything. Anyhow... Here are some pictures below:







Thanks for taking the time to post this! It just confirms what my dealers body shop told me, that neither the blade spoiler or RS spoiler will cover the one hole on the SS deck lid. For either spoiler you would need body work to fill the hole or a complete RS deck lid. For now I'm just going to have to be happy with the stock SS spoiler until some one designs one to work with the holes in the SS deck lid.
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Old 01-31-2016, 02:16 PM   #66
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Ill bet Lupe at river city could tackle this and make a very thin piece of paintable mylar to go underblade and over hole, then factory paint match.

I bet one of the vendors will solve this.
That actually would be AMAZING. I will let my body shop worry about the fix since from the looks of it, I will be the first one to actually install the thing on the SS lol.
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Old 01-31-2016, 02:27 PM   #67
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I like the look of the black one. Kind of like the 1LE
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Old 01-31-2016, 02:27 PM   #68
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How can Chevrolet say it is an LPO part on a SS when it will obviously will not work?

There has to be more too it. Maybe that last hole is not on the trunk if you put it on your order sheet from the dealer, they could be an optional trunk lid installed at the factory....
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Old 01-31-2016, 02:57 PM   #69
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From my body guy for anyone walking in...Pat at B&R Autobody.....Pompano Beach,Fl

"The cost would be based on the color. White, black, silver, grey are all about the same cost so you would weld the hole, paint and polish the deck. I would charge $350. If it is red, yellow or a pearl color like their red or blue it would run $400."

So about a grand for everything, to swap....
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Old 01-31-2016, 03:04 PM   #70
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That really is a bummer TR6. Are you still going to do the swap and just fill in and paint the decklid? Or maybe find an LT1 decklid swap?
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