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Old 01-08-2016, 08:30 AM   #43
MemBluff23
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brutusvk View Post
I have no idea how much it will cost. I spend way too much on stereo stuff though. It is kind of my vice. hahaha

I am going Hybrid audio Clarus for the front and Hybrid Mirus for the rear speakers.

For a sound processor I am leaning towards the ARC audio PS8.

I have good luck with JL for subs and amps. So I will most likely stick with them. Just not sure if I am going shallow mounts or not.
Cool, cant wait to see your setup and sub box. Is the 6th Gen speaker size the same at the 5th? tweeter = 1.5, front 6.5, rear 6.9, center 3.5?
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Old 01-08-2016, 01:55 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by MemBluff23 View Post
Cool, cant wait to see your setup and sub box. Is the 6th Gen speaker size the same at the 5th? tweeter = 1.5, front 6.5, rear 6.9, center 3.5?
Center? would those be in the rear/trunk for the BOSE people? US non-bose people have empty holes there :(
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Old 01-11-2016, 09:32 PM   #45
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I may be going a bit more extravagant than I originally planned. I will update this in my build thread.
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:44 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by brutusvk View Post
I may be going a bit more extravagant than I originally planned. I will update this in my build thread.
Post pics of the box, and price! Maybe your guys can make another and ship?
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:21 AM   #47
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Center? would those be in the rear/trunk for the BOSE people? US non-bose people have empty holes there :(
Center = front dash in the middle
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Old 01-12-2016, 01:39 PM   #48
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Post pics of the box, and price! Maybe your guys can make another and ship?
The box I am having built is not something that is really a mass produce item. You will see what I mean when it is done. And if they did produce more, it would not be a huge savings since they are basically hand made to order and labor intensive.
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Old 01-13-2016, 01:24 PM   #49
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So where do you run the RCAs? This is my only question
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Old 01-13-2016, 02:31 PM   #50
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The sound processor works as OEM integration. That's where the RCAs connect to. There are cheaper OEM integration methods though.
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Old 01-13-2016, 04:27 PM   #51
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I wonder if there is a way to plug into the amp in the trunk to run another amp off of that and power some subs or 6x9's in the rear shelf for non bose cars.
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Old 01-13-2016, 05:50 PM   #52
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I wonder if there is a way to plug into the amp in the trunk to run another amp off of that and power some subs or 6x9's in the rear shelf for non bose cars.
This would be good to know!
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Old 01-14-2016, 04:48 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by drivingagain View Post
I wonder if there is a way to plug into the amp in the trunk to run another amp off of that and power some subs or 6x9's in the rear shelf for non bose cars.
Forgive me if someone proves this to be wrong, as I haven't professionally installed car A/V equipment in almost 5 years so things definitely might be different now... but, I wouldn't think you'd be able.

Usually the factory amps will be powered and grounded by 16 gauge wire, and just in general the units don't require the same amount of power as an aftermarket amplifier. Tapping into the factory amp power wire and trying to draw power for the new amp could/would most likely put the factory amp into protection mode. For this reason we always ran dedicated power and ground to any aftermarket amp. Also, not sure what size amp and sub you're looking to add, but I wouldn't use anything smaller than 4 gauge, although 8 might do for smaller setups. Signal wise though, If someone gets their hands on a wiring diagram you could potentially catch the line level output wires that run into the factory amp.

It would be interesting to see what the back of the factory head unit looks like. I'm certainly not brave enough to start popping trim of my new dash, but more power to anyone who will for the sake of science! I wonder if you'd find any pre-amp outs available - especially on non bose systems like I also have. Doubt it, but you never know with how far factory audio systems have come in the last few years.
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Old 01-14-2016, 04:53 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by JayhawkNation View Post
Forgive me if someone proves this to be wrong, as I haven't professionally installed car A/V equipment in almost 5 years so things definitely might be different now... but, I wouldn't think you'd be able.

Usually the factory amps will be powered and grounded by 16 gauge wire, and just in general the units don't require the same amount of power as an aftermarket amplifier. Tapping into the factory amp power wire and trying to draw power for the new amp could/would most likely put the factory amp into protection mode. For this reason we always ran dedicated power and ground to any aftermarket amp. Also, not sure what size amp and sub you're looking to add, but I wouldn't use anything smaller than 4 gauge, although 8 might do for smaller setups. Signal wise though, If someone gets their hands on a wiring diagram you could potentially catch the line level output wires that run into the factory amp.

It would be interesting to see what the back of the factory head unit looks like. I'm certainly not brave enough to start popping trim of my new dash, but more power to anyone who will for the sake of science! I wonder if you'd find any pre-amp outs available - especially on non bose systems like I also have. Doubt it, but you never know with how far factory audio systems have come in the last few years.
You would be able to jump off the lines - to an RCA output to another amp. You wouldn't be creating any resistance (ohms) to the already there speaker because you aren't adding to it another speaker, just an output (amp) so it wouldn't jump to protection mode.
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Old 01-14-2016, 06:42 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ussj4brolli View Post
You would be able to jump off the lines - to an RCA output to another amp. You wouldn't be creating any resistance (ohms) to the already there speaker because you aren't adding to it another speaker, just an output (amp) so it wouldn't jump to protection mode.
Agree with you on that, I was more speaking about if someone was trying to catch your 12V constant from the factory amp. Some factory amps would go into protect mode if they were receiving inadequate power too, which might happen if you steal from the factory amps power supply.
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Old 01-14-2016, 07:02 PM   #56
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Agree with you on that, I was more speaking about if someone was trying to catch your 12V constant from the factory amp. Some factory amps would go into protect mode if they were receiving inadequate power too, which might happen if you steal from the factory amps power supply.
The battery is in the trunk. Why would someone do that?
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