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Old 03-24-2014, 05:55 PM   #22289
zandron263

 
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I did have it on a tender the codes are PO300 random multiple cylinder misfire devoted and PO303 cylinder 3 misfire and PO302 cylinder 2 misfire.
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Old 03-24-2014, 05:59 PM   #22290
menendez1293
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I did have it on a tender the codes are PO300 random multiple cylinder misfire devoted and PO303 cylinder 3 misfire and PO302 cylinder 2 misfire.

Well I was wrong

I would clear the codes and see if they come back. If they do look for a leak somewhere. Ever get those codes before?

When I got multiple cylinder misfires on my Cruze it was due to a broken spark plug on cylinder 1 and a broken coil pack on cylinder 1 and 2. My service department told me since they couldn't replicate the issues there weren't any so I had to find them. Honestly I was very surprised to see a broken coil pack with not even 30K miles.
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Old 03-24-2014, 06:10 PM   #22291
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When I started the car last spring it ran like crap rough idle and revs and I had a CEL. I turned it off to check the CAI since I had oiled the filter during the winter just to be sure I put it back together tightly. It was fine when I restarted the car a second time the light went off and it ran smooth and normal. I don't think there is anything seriously wrong now as its running perfectly. I will probably just give it a few days to see if it goes away on its own or I will clear it once I figure out how to use the torque app and see if it returns.
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:21 PM   #22292
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I know lots of people that daily drive with drag radials. They have different kinds, depending on how much drag and how much street use you will use. The best tire if you do more street driving with the occasional drag race, then Nitto’s NT555R are probably the longer lasting. About 10k miles. Which yes, it's still not very much, it's more than the 3-5k for the other brands. Lol
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Old 03-24-2014, 10:19 PM   #22293
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What's up guys? Finally decides to tackle lowering. I completed the rears today. Will do front tom early morning. Had go stop Cuz I removed the paint and repainted my rotors hat and calipers.. that tool forever.. I still need to do the other rear errr

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Old 03-24-2014, 10:29 PM   #22294
kjkjr27
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What's up guys? Finally decides to tackle lowering. I completed the rears today. Will do front tom early morning. Had go stop Cuz I removed the paint and repainted my rotors hat and calipers.. that tool forever.. I still need to do the other rear errr

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Ever get those J-pipes on?
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:00 PM   #22295
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No yet. Had to cancel the appointment. However my drone has reduced little since installing my subs box.. I still want the j pipes. Need to find the time. The guy quoted 200

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Old 03-24-2014, 11:19 PM   #22296
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Does that include the piping?
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:24 PM   #22297
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Yes.. everything.. so I finishes lowering the car.. now it pulls to the right a lot and my wheel goes to the right too.. normal? Alignment needed?? Or did I do something wrong?

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Old 03-25-2014, 05:39 PM   #22298
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Quote:
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Yes.. everything.. so I finishes lowering the car.. now it pulls to the right a lot and my wheel goes to the right too.. normal? Alignment needed?? Or did I do something wrong?

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Anytime you change things to the suspension with the exception of a few things like sway bars you do need an alignment. I am not sure to what extent it affects the steering without one though.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:52 PM   #22299
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Well the left side wheel in the front is not sitting flush or properly. It looks like its concaved in. That side I tighten the top bolt first and then the rest I think that's why its wrong. On the other side I tightened the bottom bolts first and last the top.. wonder if that is why its crocked

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Old 03-25-2014, 07:56 PM   #22300
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Quote:
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Well the left side wheel in the front is not sitting flush or properly. It looks like its concaved in. That side I tighten the top bolt first and then the rest I think that's why its wrong. On the other side I tightened the bottom bolts first and last the top.. wonder if that is why its crocked

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When you say top and bottom are you referring to the bolt that is on the strut towers in the engine bay and then the two bolts that are on the spindle?
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:57 PM   #22301
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Correct.. I am going to undo it and put the bolts on the spindle first and then the top and see if it changed

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Old 03-25-2014, 08:25 PM   #22302
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After looking over installs from people who have done springs/ coilovers a lot of them draw a line on the bolt and nut to keep the alignment about the same so it doesn't change too much and then just get it done by a shop to fine tune it. from what you are saying it sounds more along the lines of 1 side is higher than the other, prob from not putting them back in properly...def check what you said and see if that changes it at all.
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