[ukester]

they called and said cyl 2 misfire-if its the same cyl as before you would think there is a problem some where other than just replace 1 plug and that's is all they did last 2 times is just replace the plug that's fouled out

[ZLRob]

The problem is most likely over fueling due to a lack of extended time getting into closed loop then. You gotta put some more miles on it every time you drive it or you gotta eat it get to sufficient temp some other way when you turn it on. I don't recommend idling an extended amount of time to obtain that goal, however.

[randeez]

if they are just seeing a code for cyl 2 misfire and stopping there, it was probably just the worse one and the rest arent far behind just havent thrown a code yet
all of them need to be changed

[ukester]

agreed they should all be changed-I never drive it it sits yes there have been very few times to drive it 4 or 5 miles most of the drives are on car cruises

[2023-SS]

FWIW: short idle periods are BAD.

the motor & exhaust get up to temp, and when they cool off, they draw moisture back up into the pipes, that is the water that sprays out of some cars (or drips down the NPP suitcase) (much easier to see on a motorcycle with open pipes)

and Idling does not get the tranny & rear end up to temperature enough to "boil off" or "burn out" the moisture in the tranny or rear.

I have let several cars "sit" as GQ's...and they usually go bad if they just sit.

even Jay Leno & guys like that have hired guys just to drive their cars & get them up to temp & keep fluids circulated.

i would recommend all new plugs & longer drives when in town
do you use STABIL or gas treatment in all your stuff in storage at the other house?


we bought one Harley Trike that had SIT for a long time brand new at the dealer, and we made it about 10 miles before it stuttered to a stop.
the gas was old & the plugs fouled up, even though we were driving.
FWIW, the wife was riding it.
maybe if I had rode it first & wound it out, it would have cleared up & made it home.

[ukester]

well they changed out a coil and plug

[randeez]

and its back to running good?
not really surprising, dealership going to do bare minimum to keep you happy thru warranty period.
likely going to see swapping all the plugs as a maintenance item

[ukester]

there is no diagnostic work any more just plug in and read a code-asked about the other plugs and got no response. Asked about the cats and was told it did not throw a code so its good.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

The first hint that its the battery is the service eLSD warning. When you first crank the car, the system does a check which includes an immediate cycle of the eLSD to full lockup pressure, unlock and lock again. It does this action within milliseconds. This is an immediate draw away from the starter and you can trickle charge your battery seeing 12-13v and yet still have no ability to move CURRENT. Voltage is the Punch with a Fist, but Current is how hard that swing is coming to knock your head off. Your battery has no gumption and as soon as the dealer is done billing GM for frivolous parts, so a tech can buy time... you're in Florida, batteries die there like the parents of OLD people. Add in the humidity, corrosion and my Fiancé 's father deals with the same thing on his C7 Z07 that sits all the time.

Buy a new AGM Battery... not some lightweight whatever, but one meant for the car so when it runs it's tests it will see current is matching the rate of demand. Check all your grounds up front. If your battery doesn't have the Punch to pass the Diff test, its certainly not going to make any juice up front and that's why those plugs are failing.

[ukester]

ok which battery do you recommend

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by ukester

ok which battery do you recommend

Consider all the electrical items running on your car. If you are not tracking or driving your car to the limits, do not believe for a minute the climate where you live still is not a contributing factor.

The battery you choose is NOT just for starting the car. When you are drive your car there is a lot going on charging or supplying the power to run everything. Keep this in mind when the eLSD is also running a hydraulic pump that is keeping your butt safe at speeds, sweeping into a turn and trying to balance the entire mass based on a hydraulic pressure of wheel speed to the left & right sides.

Also understand the intricacies of the ABS system and it's hydraulics are running off the battery that is trying it's best to keep up a charge.

While this might not apply to you, being in traffic with a car that has been sitting with a weak battery, it will. While on the track and at the end of each 25 minute sessions, the battery in my ZLE would lose 30% of its total charge. By the end of the day that was getting closer to 40-50% of its charge based upon my NOCO Smart Charger, and this is a brand new battery! Wanna know why your car might be getting into misfires and other issues at mileage sooner than expected...???

Myself and other close friends I race with have all tried the smaller lightweight batteries and now when its time to replace another one, I am looking for something with more reserve cranking amps that will keep this all in check. I found the Optima Yellow top has more than the rated 800 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) to the OEM spec of 700CCA and a total of 928 Reserve Amps (this is the load it can take a hit on) which is over 300A more than the OEM rated battery needs.

Here is a link to the battery you need from O'reilly's