[BeauRichardson]

Anyone ever ventured down the long scary road of relocating these two very important pieces of equipment? Been trying to make room on my passenger side for my upward+forward speed engineering header.

Tbh, the driver side header fits so good. For anyone doing something like this in the future, if you don’t have ac (i ditched mine a long time ago) you can put one longtube on passenger and run it down the bottom/backside up to the driver side and that would make for a pretty decent setup from what i’m seeing. i wish i hadn’t sold both of my kooks long tubes. i could have most definitely made a longtube on passenger work far superior than using both of these forward upward headers.

Anyhow. i’ll get some figured out. i’ll post pics eventually

[bishopts]

Its not hard. Just time consuming.

[BeauRichardson]

Originally Posted by bishopts

Its not hard. Just time consuming.

i’ve plenty of time. is that something you’ve done? if so, where did you put it and what did it entail? did you have to make up custom parts to hold things or extend harnesses and what not? or is it just a matter of moving things around and then hooking things back up. Not trying to ask useless questions or sound stupid, but definitely want to know what i’m getting into.

i’ve already removed the ecu and fuse box, clean up some wiring, and now im trying to figure out exactly how i want everything to lay back in

[bishopts]

Ive done it different ways. But not on my 6th gen.
An OBS chevy truck i did an extension for the pcm. Just equal length wires one at a time.
My trans am i built the engine bay harness from scratch, so for that i uses zipties in places i wanted the harness to run . I left the zipties loose like big hoops and ran wires once at a time for each component. Once i was sure i was done i tightened all the zipties and pulled the harness to tape it.
For my blazer i removed the factory fusebox and wired in 2 seperate boxes higher in the dash. I made most of the changes just from the firewall to the boxes. It was a lot of wire extension but i also wired all of the power feeds from the battery to the boxes in a bus form instead of individual power wires like it came with.

[BeauRichardson]

Originally Posted by bishopts

Ive done it different ways. But not on my 6th gen.
An OBS chevy truck i did an extension for the pcm. Just equal length wires one at a time.
My trans am i built the engine bay harness from scratch, so for that i uses zipties in places i wanted the harness to run . I left the zipties loose like big hoops and ran wires once at a time for each component. Once i was sure i was done i tightened all the zipties and pulled the harness to tape it.
For my blazer i removed the factory fusebox and wired in 2 seperate boxes higher in the dash. I made most of the changes just from the firewall to the boxes. It was a lot of wire extension but i also wired all of the power feeds from the battery to the boxes in a bus form instead of individual power wires like it came with.

i just get really nervous dealing with canbus and all that stuff. i had heard that if some wires get too long or what have ya that things won’t read correctly or things won’t work properly. how true that is i’m not sure, but still

[bishopts]

CAN-C wires are usually just a simple twisted pair. Just to reduce rfi. It's not like doing brain surgery. If all you're doing is extending the harness to relocate then just make sure all wires are accounted for. Ive counted the CAN circuits in the ECM before but i didn't memorize it. I think there are 4.
The connections are important. Crimp connectors are not the most ideal. You want the connections to be sealed away from water intrusion. So solder and heat shrink for wire to wire. Or new pins and new wires in the connectors.

[BeauRichardson]

Originally Posted by bishopts

CAN-C wires are usually just a simple twisted pair. Just to reduce rfi. It's not like doing brain surgery. If all you're doing is extending the harness to relocate then just make sure all wires are accounted for. Ive counted the CAN circuits in the ECM before but i didn't memorize it. I think there are 4.
The connections are important. Crimp connectors are not the most ideal. You want the connections to be sealed away from water intrusion. So solder and heat shrink for wire to wire. Or new pins and new wires in the connectors.

that is good to know. so basically just look out for the twisted wires, and keep that twist consistent for the added wire, and then solder/heat shrink instead of butt connector

[bishopts]

Originally Posted by BeauRichardson

that is good to know. so basically just look out for the twisted wires, and keep that twist consistent for the added wire, and then solder/heat shrink instead of butt connector

If you have old cat5 wire laying around, you can pull twisted pair wire out of it. Its pretty good communication wire.

Ive considering rewiring an engine using cat5 segments with connectors, just to do it. It would be easy to completely replace harness segments for damage or alternative engines in a racecar.

[BeauRichardson]

Originally Posted by bishopts

If you have old cat5 wire laying around, you can pull twisted pair wire out of it. Its pretty good communication wire.

Ive considering rewiring an engine using cat5 segments with connectors, just to do it. It would be easy to completely replace harness segments for damage or alternative engines in a racecar.

makes sense. i think i might try and go to one of these local places around here and see if i can’t find a harness i can rob just so that everything is color matched. if not ill just do what i can and label things. if i do end up going the route of extending the harness i might actually buy some bulkheads and make like an actual extension harness that i can piggy back everything off of, but i suppose that could get fairly expensive.

it really sucks how tight these cars are packed, and to be honest the cheapest/easiest route for me might actually be running a longtube on the passenger side around the back and meeting up with the drivers side header, because once i get the wiring harness and fuse box issue solved, next will be the coolant expansion tank, and the hearted core hoses that are running off of the water pump. it seems to be one thing after another. which is fine, it’s how this game goes when trying to make power, in a very custom way