[TOP WHOP]

Originally Posted by N Camarolina

Maybe let it run for another couple of seconds to see if fuel runs out (of line) and it stalls?

Tried that for a short while. Didn't want to damage anything, like the fuel pump for a kill switch.

[TOP WHOP]

Originally Posted by Rnovrit

I could be wrong but if memory serves me correct from looking through a bunch of wiring diagrams in the factory manual on another project, I believe the fuel pump driver module, module location and wiring is different on a ZL1 to the SS. The wiring the original poster used is for the SS configuration and is not the same for the ZL1.

I figured there was something missing...just wasn't going to cut any more wires until I was sure.
Besides this was under ZL1 thread.
Liked the idea though.

[DoppelNull_00]

Hello community,
Recently there have been more car thefts in my neighborhood. Because of that, I decided to install a kill switch as well. I found this post and thought the instructions and reviews were really good, so I followed them and installed the switch myself. However, it only works about 90%, so I wanted to ask where my mistake might be.

1. Instead of using a 16 AWG wire, I used a 20 AWG wire because it has the same thickness as the original green wire with a gray stripe.
2. I used the following switch: https://www.amazon.com/Joinfworld-Ma...1zcF9hdGY&th=1
3. I’m sure I found the correct wire, because when I activate the switch, the engine shuts off.
4. I then cleared the OBD II code and left the switch on — everything works fine. Even after locking and restarting the car, there is no CEL.
5. My problem is that I installed the switch in the trunk. Since I always cover the car anyway, I have to access the trunk every time, and it’s not noticeable when I use the switch in the trunk. However, I always get a CEL. My guess is: when I turn the switch off and lock the car, everything is fine. But when I open the car/trunk again, the system turns on and detects that there is no power going to the fuel pump. Then I flip the switch, and the car starts normally.

So my question is: do I just have to live with this issue because the switch is in the trunk, or did I use the wrong wires or switch?


About my car:
2021 Camaro ZL1 1LE
Manual transmission


I hope to get some answers from you, thank you!

[bishopts]

Originally Posted by DoppelNull_00

Hello community,
Recently there have been more car thefts in my neighborhood. Because of that, I decided to install a kill switch as well. I found this post and thought the instructions and reviews were really good, so I followed them and installed the switch myself. However, it only works about 90%, so I wanted to ask where my mistake might be.

1. Instead of using a 16 AWG wire, I used a 20 AWG wire because it has the same thickness as the original green wire with a gray stripe.
2. I used the following switch: https://www.amazon.com/Joinfworld-Ma...1zcF9hdGY&th=1
3. I’m sure I found the correct wire, because when I activate the switch, the engine shuts off.
4. I then cleared the OBD II code and left the switch on — everything works fine. Even after locking and restarting the car, there is no CEL.
5. My problem is that I installed the switch in the trunk. Since I always cover the car anyway, I have to access the trunk every time, and it’s not noticeable when I use the switch in the trunk. However, I always get a CEL. My guess is: when I turn the switch off and lock the car, everything is fine. But when I open the car/trunk again, the system turns on and detects that there is no power going to the fuel pump. Then I flip the switch, and the car starts normally.

So my question is: do I just have to live with this issue because the switch is in the trunk, or did I use the wrong wires or switch?


About my car:
2021 Camaro ZL1 1LE
Manual transmission


I hope to get some answers from you, thank you!

When you unlock the car it primes the fuel pump. So yea you will deal with that being an issue. To be honest an aftermarket alarm with the starter interrupt would work fine. You would have the inconvenience of 2 fobs but your car would still be sitting there when you came back to it.

[Ray3768]

I have the Mobilistics No-start relay. It seems to work pretty well:


https://www.mobilistics.com/nostart-...p-immobilizer/


They recommend using this for the starter relay on the Camaro.


-Ray

[bishopts]

Originally Posted by Ray3768

I have the Mobilistics No-start relay. It seems to work pretty well:


https://www.mobilistics.com/nostart-...p-immobilizer/


They recommend using this for the starter relay on the Camaro.


-Ray

I agree

Starter control would be more ideal than fuel pump control in my opinion.

[DoppelNull_00]

Thank you for your quick responses! I really appreciate it.


I ordered the Mobilistics no-start relay and will test it.


It’s still a bit of a bummer that the car primes the fuel pump, and the kill switch is not working as intended, with the CEL coming on all the time.

[SilverIce13SS]

As Mobilistics appears to be a well-known solution to prevent starting, using both might not be a bad idea. I could see hiding the fuel switch in the trunk and using it to turn off the fuel pump in what I’d consider a high threat theft area (anywhere I’m not really familiar with). They might get past the Mobilistics, and they might know the fuel pump is disabled, chances are better than not taking the time to find the switch is a bridge too far. Relatively cheap insurance really.

[Ray3768]

Originally Posted by SilverIce13SS

As Mobilistics appears to be a well-known solution to prevent starting, using both might not be a bad idea. I could see hiding the fuel switch in the trunk and using it to turn off the fuel pump in what I’d consider a high threat theft area (anywhere I’m not really familiar with). They might get past the Mobilistics, and they might know the fuel pump is disabled, chances are better than not taking the time to find the switch is a bridge too far. Relatively cheap insurance really.

I'm not sure how they'd get past the Mobilistics No start. They would need a key fob paired to the relay or they would need to realize what was happening and have a spare standard relay in hand to swap in.


-Ray

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by Ray3768

I'm not sure how they'd get past the Mobilistics No start. They would need a key fob paired to the relay or they would need to realize what was happening and have a spare standard relay in hand to swap in.


-Ray

I think what he meant was thieves probably know about this solution by now and it sticks out like a sore thumb in the fuse box since it’s the only relay with no GM writing on it.

[david_acm]

+1 for using both in high threat areas.

Originally Posted by Ray3768

I'm not sure how they'd get past the Mobilistics No start.
-Ray

They could bust driver window, open hood, swap fuse, and now they can continue without Mobilistics getting in the way.

[SilverIce13SS]

Originally Posted by m6-lt1

I think what he meant was thieves probably know about this solution by now and it sticks out like a sore thumb in the fuse box since it’s the only relay with no GM writing on it.

[SilverIce13SS]

Originally Posted by bishopts

When you unlock the car it primes the fuel pump. So yea you will deal with that being an issue. To be honest an aftermarket alarm with the starter interrupt would work fine. You would have the inconvenience of 2 fobs but your car would still be sitting there when you came back to it.

Not being a fan of intentionally breaking my car (in my thinking, throwing a code is breaking my car, it's something I'd have to put time into correcting, or living with a daily reminder), I'm thinking an all weather switch externally mounted, like on the top of a rear wheel well or on the shelf above the license plate. I've read a couple or three times here where people were surprised to learn there is a trunk unlock switch on that shelf, might be a good place to put a low profile rocker switch.

[bishopts]

Starter interrupt at or really close to the starter would be better. Something that would require lifting the car to gain access to and didn't require modifications to sensitive circuits.
So far out of all the suggestions I've seen on here. Disconnecting the start button and putting a new one somewhere else is my favorite idea.