[cengell]

Hi all, got 80K on my 2017 Camaro Conv and was told to get the brake fluid flushed and think I can do it myself and watched a few videos and found this on Amazon and think it will work great?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...XYJ6B0ZI&psc=1

Getting 2 32oz Valvoline DOT 3 & 4 Synthetic Brake Fluid, don't race, just a daily driver. So far brake seam fine, just don't want to have issues and I know I should have done this 5-6 years ago as it's not the miles but the time that moisture can get in the fluid.

Going to do the Pass rear, then the driver front, then the driver rear, then pass front, from what I recall?

As for the Brake bleeder system about 10-14 PSI I am thinking as less then 10 PSI won't push hard enough and 14 PSI should be good?

What advice should I know? I will pre test this unit without fluid on the master cylinder first to see if there is any pressure loss before I add 32 oz of brake fluid.

Thanks
Christopher

[bishopts]

most anyone will suggest fluid flushes at certain miles because they get paid off of it. brake fluid is hydroscopic so it takes on moisture from the environment its really really rarely exposed to. look at the cap and find the vent in it that allows air to enter though the rubber diaphragm. its a very tiny slit in the middle of the rubber that you cant find unless you are bending the rubber over. so your brake fluid really isnt taking on much moisture, but whatever.
when you are bleeding brakes or swapping fluids in the brakes, you do furthest from the master cylinder first. RR, LR, RF, LF.
brakes are on a bias system so RF and LF are the same master cylinder feed and LF and RR are on the opposite.
the internals of a master cylinder has cup seals in it. cup seals are designed to be mechanically pressed in one direction and they will open to push fluid in that direction, once the movement has stopped and pressures equalize, the cup seal will retract and allow fluid to pass either direction.
forcing fluid in from the master cylinder can work but it can also force the cup seals in a direction they arent designed to do.
i personally havent had issues with that on brake fluid flushes but if you have problems then at least you know.
i would suggest a gravity fed brake fluid system and a brake hose to a container on the wheel your messing with. just do one at time and dont let the fluid run out.
its not rocket surgery.
use dot 4.

[cengell]

Thanks, that makes sense. I ordered DOT 3/4 so should work? Did not know there was DOT 3/4 in 1 bottle as I know the racers use the higher temp fluid DOT 4, but think DOT 3/4 will be fine?

I hear what you are saying use the "gravity fed brake fluid system" but did not want to take longer then it should..

Thanks
Christopher

[cengell]

Anyone tried this and were any issues or what to know before I do this? When I just looked on the GM maintenance manual has nothing on bleeding the Brakes..

Looking for any tips or suggestions...

Thanks again!
Christopher

[cdb95z28]

The GM service manual does have info on flushing and bleeding. acdelcotds.com will get you access to GM's info. $22 for a 3 day subscription. You can copy as many pages on there as you can in 3 days. And that is not limited to just one VIN/vehicle. I did many of my GM vehicles when I did it.

Most of us track guys pressure bleed. I use the Motive Bleeder 0108. But I do not put fluid inside the bleeder reservoir. I keep an eye on the master level. Do not run the master dry!

There is a specific bleed order that is not like the old RR/LR/RF/LF.
The proper sequence is:

RR/LF/LR/RF

The reason it is different because of where the ABS module is located.
Pressurize the master to 25-30PSI.

Gravity bleed is not a good way to bleed these complex circuits.

There is an ABS bleed procedure. This will flush out the old fluid from within the ABS module. It can make a positive difference in the pedal feel if it is performed. You need the proper scan tool though, to do this. I have a Foxwell NT630 Plus, it works great. Look on Amazon. The ABS sequence that the scan tool performs is controversial but I have used two different scan tools and they do it the exact same way the GM Tech 2 does it. Just follow the scan tool's procedure no matter the questionable sound sequence. I track my '22 SS 1LE and previous '14 SS 1LE and have done a rediculous amount of bleeds over the past 12 years.


DOT3 is acceptable for just street use but buy a quality fluid. DOT4 gets you a higher dry and wet temp boiling point but note that DOT4 fluid absorbs moisture at a faster rate than DOT3.


PDF file on pressure bleeding:

BRAKE PRESSURE BLEEDING.pdf

ABS bleed:

ABS UNIT BLEED PROCEDURE.pdf

[MT-SS1LE]

I have never had luck with pressure bleeders, like the Motive style. Can never get a reliable seal at the fliud reservoir. Plus, I'm always paranoid it's going to leak and spray brake fluid all over the engine bay and side panel. I changed over to the vacuum style bleeder from Mityvac and find it works much better. The one I have requires an air compressor, but they make ones that you pump up manually too.

[bishopts]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

The GM service manual does have info on flushing and bleeding. acdelcotds.com will get you access to GM's info. $22 for a 3 day subscription. You can copy as many pages on there as you can in 3 days. And that is not limited to just one VIN/vehicle. I did many of my GM vehicles when I did it.

Most of us track guys pressure bleed. I use the Motive Bleeder 0108. But I do not put fluid inside the bleeder reservoir. I keep an eye on the master level. Do not run the master dry!

There is a specific bleed order that is not like the old RR/LR/RF/LF.
The proper sequence is:

RR/LF/LR/RF

The reason it is different because of where the ABS module is located.
Pressurize the master to 25-30PSI.

Gravity bleed is not a good way to bleed these complex circuits.

There is an ABS bleed procedure. This will flush out the old fluid from within the ABS module. It can make a positive difference in the pedal feel if it is performed. You need the proper scan tool though, to do this. I have a Foxwell NT630 Plus, it works great. Look on Amazon. The ABS sequence that the scan tool performs is controversial but I have used two different scan tools and they do it the exact same way the GM Tech 2 does it. Just follow the scan tool's procedure no matter the questionable sound sequence. I track my '22 SS 1LE and previous '14 SS 1LE and have done a rediculous amount of bleeds over the past 12 years.


DOT3 is acceptable for just street use but buy a quality fluid. DOT4 gets you a higher dry and wet temp boiling point but note that DOT4 fluid absorbs moisture at a faster rate than DOT3.


PDF file on pressure bleeding:

Attachment 1174715

ABS bleed:

Attachment 1174716

Very strong emphasis on do not let the master cylinder run dry.

I said gravity fed system but i didn't clarify what i ment. Gravity fed to the master cylinder reservoir. Basically a glorified funnel just to get more volume in the master cylinder. I force bleed with the pedal but i usually have someone nearby to work the pedal while I'm at the valves.
Personally I'm not a fan of force pump bleeding unless i just need to. The master cylinder reservoir wasn't designed for pressure so i don't like putting pressure into it. Similar to pulling a vacuum on the cooling system, people do it but i don't.
A lot of times if I'm not flushing but just bleeding, i will just run a hose from the brake caliper back to the reservoir and open the valve and just pump the fluid through. The air will get caught in the reservoir.