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Old 03-20-2026, 02:08 AM   #1
SammYyYyY
 
Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Salt Lake City
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Intermittent Electrical Failure

Hey all! I'm having a weird issue with my ZLE; as I'm driving down the road I am occasionally losing all power for a second or two before everything comes back on. When it happens, the gauge cluster shuts off, the lights shut off, the exhaust valves open regardless of whatever mode the car is in, and the EPS stops working (this is the most troubling part; quite dangerous).

My first thought was that a ground didn't get tightened properly during reinstallation of the engine after a complete overhaul. I checked the ground connection on the back of the passenger cylinder head and everything seems to be good there.

However, the back of the driver's side cylinder head usually has two ground connections, and I noticed one of them was relocated to the back of the bell housing (see attached photos, relocation shown in purple). I'd assume this is NOT my issue as there should be continuity between the bell housing and the engine block, right?

I'd like to mention that the battery is brand new (OEM), and the passenger side wiring harness is safely tucked away from the headers and appears to be in perfect condition.

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Last edited by SammYyYyY; 03-20-2026 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 03-20-2026, 06:30 AM   #2
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Have you checked all the battery bolts on the underhood and positive post junction blocks?
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Old 03-20-2026, 06:46 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopts View Post
Have you checked all the battery bolts on the underhood and positive post junction blocks?

This right here.


If you just got a engine overhaul done and are having electrical issues, then there is a very high probability that something is loose.


Hell there is even a chance that a fuse isn't fully seated if they pulled something prior to removing the engine and just never got back to it or halfway did it.


Relocate those grounds back to the cylinder head. You want to rule out a 1000% clean connection to the engine block as there is a lot that rides on those grounds and continuity through the bell housing is not where you want to be in that situation. If the issue persists then start by checking all fuses. Move on to all termination/ connection points from there if necessary. This is going to need to be a methodical inspection for you if you hope to figure this out.
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Old 03-20-2026, 11:13 AM   #4
SammYyYyY
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZLRob View Post
This right here.


If you just got a engine overhaul done and are having electrical issues, then there is a very high probability that something is loose.


Hell there is even a chance that a fuse isn't fully seated if they pulled something prior to removing the engine and just never got back to it or halfway did it.


Relocate those grounds back to the cylinder head. You want to rule out a 1000% clean connection to the engine block as there is a lot that rides on those grounds and continuity through the bell housing is not where you want to be in that situation. If the issue persists then start by checking all fuses. Move on to all termination/ connection points from there if necessary. This is going to need to be a methodical inspection for you if you hope to figure this out.
Thanks guys! I'll start by relocating that ground to the back of the cylinder head, check the aforementioned connections and go from there.
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Old 03-23-2026, 11:06 PM   #5
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All,

Happy update time! I double checked the obvious at the battery terminals, and it turns out I had a loose connection on the positive terminal. I thought I was good from when I checked it before because the bolt was tight, but it turns out the terminal itself was stretched so it wasn't making great contact even though the bolt was tight.


Went down to the dealer on Saturday morning, replaced the main fuse that sits on the battery (I figured I should probably do this instead of just replacing the terminal as I had snapped some of the clips from the last battery change, and it's cheap enough); driven the car since then without a hiccup.

I need to stop jumping to the worst case scenario in my head, it's stressful!

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Old 03-23-2026, 11:45 PM   #6
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Glad you got it sorted out! What did you do to the engine?
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Old 03-23-2026, 11:47 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SammYyYyY View Post
All,

Happy update time! I double checked the obvious at the battery terminals, and it turns out I had a loose connection on the positive terminal. I thought I was good from when I checked it before because the bolt was tight, but it turns out the terminal itself was stretched so it wasn't making great contact even though the bolt was tight.


Went down to the dealer on Saturday morning, replaced the main fuse that sits on the battery (I figured I should probably do this instead of just replacing the terminal as I had snapped some of the clips from the last battery change, and it's cheap enough); driven the car since then without a hiccup.

I need to stop jumping to the worst case scenario in my head, it's stressful!

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Old 03-24-2026, 12:26 AM   #8
SammYyYyY
 
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You're welcome
You had the right idea! Thanks boss 😎
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Old 03-24-2026, 12:28 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by beowulf556 View Post
Glad you got it sorted out! What did you do to the engine?
Thanks man! The car spun 2 rod bearings right before it was about to go onto the dyno after a routine cam install haha.

Basically just a refresh with King bearings, BTR stage 2 cam + supporting mods, lower pulley, flex, and GMS oil cooler! (Among other things; this is a huge abbreviation of everything done haha)
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Old 03-24-2026, 02:20 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SammYyYyY View Post
Thanks man! The car spun 2 rod bearings right before it was about to go onto the dyno after a routine cam install haha.

Basically just a refresh with King bearings, BTR stage 2 cam + supporting mods, lower pulley, flex, and GMS oil cooler! (Among other things; this is a huge abbreviation of everything done haha)

Whoa. How the heck did you manage to spin not just one, but two rod bearings?! That's wild but I'm glad to hear you're back in the drivers seat again after all that! Sounds like you got some nice goodies on her now!
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758 HP/ 804 TQ

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Old 03-24-2026, 10:55 AM   #11
beowulf556
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SammYyYyY View Post
Thanks man! The car spun 2 rod bearings right before it was about to go onto the dyno after a routine cam install haha.

Basically just a refresh with King bearings, BTR stage 2 cam + supporting mods, lower pulley, flex, and GMS oil cooler! (Among other things; this is a huge abbreviation of everything done haha)
Nice!!!
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Old 03-24-2026, 05:44 PM   #12
SammYyYyY
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZLRob View Post
Whoa. How the heck did you manage to spin not just one, but two rod bearings?! That's wild but I'm glad to hear you're back in the drivers seat again after all that! Sounds like you got some nice goodies on her now!
To be honest, we still don't really know WTF actually happened. The two bearings that spun were on the same journal (I believe it was cylinders 3 and 4), but we caught it extremely early; crank was still salvageable with a 10 thou grind; so everything was torn to bare block, cleaned, and rebuilt (with some new goodies obviously). The knocking we heard was so light when we caught it that it was more reminiscent of a valve train tick than anything. Builder actually started by removing valve covers and timing cover and was perplexed when nothing was amiss. That's when he decided to crack open the filter and found bearing material.

Regardless of what happened, builder stood up and took responsibility, and I was comped for everything related to the engine rebuild. I've since put about 3k miles on it, and am about to put a lot more since it is warming up so fast over here in UT! It's all water under the bridge now, and I'm just happy to be driving my car again.
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