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Old 03-10-2026, 04:35 PM   #1
Widebody06
 
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Rookie driver no experience in mechanics

2017 Chevy Camaro LS when I turn the car on the temperature gauge remains on C it won’t move at all, when I turn the a/c on it blows hot air and the fan in the hood is running even after I turn the car off, please help.
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Old 03-10-2026, 05:13 PM   #2
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All related to the same issue. More than likely p0128 thermostat rationale.
Basically the time from when you start from a cold start to the time you're running at operating temperature is taking too long. Its very common. Especially in this time frame of the seasons.
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Old 03-10-2026, 05:40 PM   #3
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https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=636700

This thread will have info and a link to another thread that will have info and a link to another thread that will also have info. By the time you're done with all of them you will have a very solid understanding of your next move.
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Old 03-10-2026, 09:12 PM   #4
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That effing thermostat went bad in every single GM vehicle we've owned, except for my Camaro, for now... guess the writing's on the wall given her age, so I'll keep an eye on this.

I don't really understand how making a reliable thermostat can be so difficult.
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Magnuson TVS 2300 80mm pulley | Kooks 1 7/8" LT headers | JRE smooth idle Terminator cam | LT4 FS & injectors | TSP forged pistons & rods
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Old 03-11-2026, 02:27 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arpad_m View Post
That effing thermostat went bad in every single GM vehicle we've owned, except for my Camaro, for now... guess the writing's on the wall given her age, so I'll keep an eye on this.

I don't really understand how making a reliable thermostat can be so difficult.
Don’t worry, it went out on the rest of us to keep it even
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Old 03-11-2026, 05:24 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arpad_m View Post
That effing thermostat went bad in every single GM vehicle we've owned, except for my Camaro, for now... guess the writing's on the wall given her age, so I'll keep an eye on this.

I don't really understand how making a reliable thermostat can be so difficult.

It's not just thermostats. Every GM car I have owned had a water pump failure around 60k miles. It starts by passing small amounts of coolant through the weep hole. Just enough that you can smell it but not enough to make it to the ground. Just keep the coolant topped up and you are good. I will replace the water pump once it starts to pass enough through the weep hole that it starts leaving a quarter sized puddle on the ground. How friggin hard is this? Cars have had water pumps for a really long time. You'd think they would have perfected them by now.

-Ray
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Old 03-11-2026, 07:06 AM   #7
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The thermostat isnt really "bad". Its passing coolant sooner than it's designed to so it ends up taking a little longer than normal to go from stone cold to operating temperature. They have been doing it for years its just GM has tighter standards on the timeframe.
For me i just took the code out because it's more for an emissions check than it is for a engine durability standard. Its along the same as GM runs their standard operating temps much higher than other makers. So yes you can get better control of emissions but it ends up sacrificing cooling system reliability because the plastics are stressed much more.
Which is why on my GM vehicles i lowered the operating temperature to 200ish. And i don't have cooling system problems.
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Old 03-11-2026, 07:10 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopts View Post
The thermostat isnt really "bad". Its passing coolant sooner than it's designed to so it ends up taking a little longer than normal to go from stone cold to operating temperature. They have been doing it for years its just GM has tighter standards on the timeframe.
For me i just took the code out because it's more for an emissions check than it is for a engine durability standard. Its along the same as GM runs their standard operating temps much higher than other makers. So yes you can get better control of emissions but it ends up sacrificing cooling system reliability because the plastics are stressed much more.
Which is why on my GM vehicles i lowered the operating temperature to 200ish. And i don't have cooling system problems.
Thanks for the insight, as always.

I will say that Ted's tune did something similar on my car, I think the temp threshold is set to 195 or 190 on mine, and the fan comes on earlier with a more aggressive overall duty cycle, too. So maybe there's hope for my 8-year old stat after all My mileage is low, too, so we'll see.
__________________
2018 Camaro 2SS — G7E MX0 NPP F55 IO6
735 rwhp | 665 rwtq

Magnuson TVS 2300 80mm pulley | Kooks 1 7/8" LT headers | JRE smooth idle Terminator cam | LT4 FS & injectors | TSP forged pistons & rods
JMS PowerMAX | DSX flex fuel kit | Roto-Fab CAI | Soler 95mm LT5 TB | 1LE wheels | 1LE brakes | BMR rear cradle lockout | JRE custom tune

1100 - 1/30/18 | 2000 - 1/31/18
3000 - 2/06/18 TPW 2/26/18
3400 - 2/19/18 | 3800 - 2/26/18
4300 - 2/27/18 | 4B00 - 3/01/18
4200 - 3/05/18 | 4800 - 3/14/18
5000 - 3/16/18 | 6000 - 3/19/18
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Old 03-16-2026, 07:58 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Widebody06 View Post
2017 Chevy Camaro LS when I turn the car on the temperature gauge remains on C it won’t move at all, when I turn the a/c on it blows hot air and the fan in the hood is running even after I turn the car off, please help.
Had the same issue, just popped in an AC Delco Thermostat instead of the GM one. Been through two GM thermostats in one year of ownership with the car cause this issue. So far the AC delco one has been good for the last 4-5 months with no issues. Just make sure you drain the coolant otherwise you'll take a nice coolant shower like I did lol
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Old 03-22-2026, 07:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Widebody06 View Post
2017 Chevy Camaro LS when I turn the car on the temperature gauge remains on C it won’t move at all, when I turn the a/c on it blows hot air and the fan in the hood is running even after I turn the car off, please help.
I had this happen on my 1LT. I remembered reading about the symptom in the forums and looked up the threads (likely the ones already quoted here). Decided I would just try resetting the code with my old Autel code reader. Issue went away until a couple of years later when it did it again. So I tried resetting the code again. Never had the symptom occur again and eventually sold the car at around 47K miles.

Maybe start with resetting the code and if the problem does not recur, you can call it a day!

Last edited by The Maverick; 04-11-2026 at 10:13 AM.
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