[jessica.cathey]

Hi everyone, I’m hoping someone with mechanical experience can help me determine whether my repairs reasonably could be related (continuation/comeback) and whether it’s worth disputing the charges.

I bought a used 2021 Camaro 1LT in March 2025 and was told it had no mechanical issues. About one month later, I started having problems. The first repair was covered under a GM Special Coverage (cooling-related). After that, I was charged out of pocket for additional repairs that seem like they could be tied to the same underlying issue, but the dealer insists they’re not related.

I also noticed I’m being charged again for parts/services I recently paid for, and when I questioned specific part numbers on the most recent estimate, the dealer revised the estimate and removed those part numbers. I kept the original copy.

Below are the repair details and timeline:

1) FIRST REPAIR (April 2025) – Covered under GM Special Coverage
Code: P0128 (thermostat stuck open)
Special Coverage: N242484760 (Engine Coolant Thermostat)
Labor Op: P9900917 – Engine Coolant Thermostat Replacement

RO notes (summary):

Removed intake/intake manifold, removed steam port pipes and thermostat housing

Installed new thermostat housing, reinstalled steam port pipes

Reinstalled intake manifold/intake tube

Cleared codes and test drove, no other issues found

Parts:

12678784 – Housing (1)

12649985 – Seal (1)

12648547 – Seal (2)

12648665 – Seal (6)

12346290 – Coolant (1)

Out of pocket: $0 (covered)

Dealer paperwork warranty statement:

Labor: 90 days or 4,000 miles

New GM parts + installation labor: 12 months or 12,000 miles

(etc.)

2) SECOND REPAIR (June 2025) – Charged out of pocket
Mileage: Less than ~700 miles after the April repair
Codes listed:

P0480 – Cooling fan relay 1 control circuit

P0533 – A/C high pressure sensor circuit high voltage

RO notes (summary):

Engine overheats after running

Cooling fan motor gets hot and stops working, A/C shuts off

Voltage/ground good at fan connector, ECM is commanding fan on

Diagnosis: cooling fan motor bad

Repair performed: Replaced cooling fan motor assembly

Parts:

85063501 – Fan (1) – $458.35

12346290 – Coolant (1) – $34.93 (charged again)

Total paid: $1,176.92
(Labor $551.53 + Parts $493.28 + Fees $50 + Tax $82.11)

Important note: I was told this was not related to the April GM Special Coverage repair and that it was not continuation/comeback, so I had to pay out of pocket.

3) CURRENT ESTIMATE (January 2026) – Additional repairs recommended
Estimate total: $2,195.51 + $209.99 inspection fee

A) Fuel Injector – Customer pay $1,602.37
Parts:

12692884 – Injector (1) – $266.17

12657373 – Seal kit (2) – $278.16

12648665 – Seal (6) – $102.00 (same seal part # used in April) Labor: $956.04

B) GDI Air Induction/Fuel Injection Enhanced Maintenance – $329.95
Parts:

19435372 – Maintenance kit – $111.99

201 – GDI combustion cleaner – $37.50 Labor: $180.46

C) Dexos synthetic oil/filter change – $89.15
Parts:

12735811 – Filter – $10.65

194323510 – Oil (6) – $34.50 Labor: $44.00 Additional fees: $20.87 Tax: $153.17

Additional concern: When I questioned the estimate because of duplicates/part numbers, the dealer revised the estimate and removed certain part numbers, but I kept the original.

My questions
From a mechanical standpoint, is it reasonable that the April thermostat repair (intake removal + coolant service) and the June cooling fan motor failure (overheating + A/C shutdown) could be related, directly or indirectly, given the short time and mileage between them?

Is it normal to be charged for coolant again less than ~700 miles after coolant was replaced in April, or would that usually need a clear justification on the RO (drain/refill required for a specific operation, leak repair, contamination, etc.)?

The later estimate includes 12648665 seal (qty 6), which also appeared on the April repair. Does that automatically suggest a duplicate/redo charge, or could that part legitimately be required again if the intake has to come back off for injector work?

What specific info would be most helpful for you to judge this accurately (full RO notes, exact mileage at each visit, DTC list, freeze-frame data, live data, etc.)?

Separate note: I had three separate diagnostic reads flag a camshaft-related code: P0024 “B Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced / System Performance (Bank 2)” (auto parts store scan, my own Repair2 reader, and my local mechanic who referred me to the Chevy dealer thinking it may be warranty-related). The dealership did not mention any camshaft-related code on my repair orders. Could P0024 (or the underlying cam timing/actuator issue) overlap with the overheating/cooling fan/A/C shutdown symptoms or trigger secondary codes, or is it typically separate?

If P0024 was present when they scanned the vehicle, wouldn’t it normally show up in their diagnostics and be documented on the RO, even if they didn’t think it was relevant? P0024 showed on my scanner moments before drop-off and again immediately after pick-up (I declined additional repairs once I was told they wouldn’t be covered).

If needed, I can post screenshots of the RO’s and the original vs revised estimate.

[Osbornsm]

Originally Posted by jessica.cathey

Hi everyone......

WOAH... that's a lot of reading for us cave-people.
If you want an answer, you're gonna have to use short sentences.







Thank you,


The Mgmt.

[Bad Anvil Garage]

A lot depends on the mileage, and whether it's a V6 or I4, you didn't mention either. At least I couldn't find it...

[bishopts]

The first failure was p0128 which is the thermostat seal failed and it's taking longer for the engine to warm up than what it expected.

The second is the cooling fan motor failed and was causing an overheating issue.

Both are related to engine cooling/heating. That system is kinda all over the engine bay but neither of those parts have much to do with each other.


The confusing part is the fuel injector. You have no complaints about p0200 codes or p0300s, so why did you need an injector and seals for all the others?

The added induction cleaning isn't necessary, that's just them making money off of you.

You need to change your oil a lot more often than what you're doing. If your seeing 0% left then you're about 4000 miles past where you should have changed it.

The thermostat is removed you will lose coolant and need to put more back in. To remove the fan the upper radiator hose needs to cone off. So again you will lose coolant and it will need to be replaced.

P0533 is the tech left the pressure switch unplugged.

The 6 intake seals would have been fine to not replace again, but it becomes a grey area where if they didn't replace them and it caused a problem then they would have been at fault for not replacing them when they pulled the intake. So they cover their ass at your expense by just replacing every seal they touch doing the job.

[S.Macias]

I’m assuming it’s a V6 1LT like mine.

All those repairs seem normal as I’ve had to replace the thermostat and a fuel injector. The fuel injector though came with the seals but I think they’re likely replacing both seals on the remaining two injectors on that side. I never replaced mine and have been so far good. The seals honestly cost almost as much as a new injector. Something to keep in mind.

If you’re feeling adventurous and have a few hours, you can swap the fuel injector yourself for less than $300. Oil change with the OEM 5-30 oil and filter is about $45. And a coolant flush which on the V6 is ridiculously easy only cost $35. Our manifold seals can be reused since they’re rubber.

The dealership one time wanted to charge me $750 for new spark plugs that only cot $100 in parts. Didn’t have the money at the time so decided to give it a go. 45 minutes later I was done. Since then I’ve been doing all repairs myself. Plenty of YouTube videos to help.

But if you’re going with the dealer, skip the unnecessary stuff and just get one new injector. Make sure that they’re not giving themselves a 15% part markup fee either…

[bishopts]

Originally Posted by S.Macias

I’m assuming it’s a V6 1LT like mine.

All those repairs seem normal as I’ve had to replace the thermostat and a fuel injector. The fuel injector though came with the seals but I think they’re likely replacing both seals on the remaining two injectors on that side. I never replaced mine and have been so far good. The seals honestly cost almost as much as a new injector. Something to keep in mind.

If you’re feeling adventurous and have a few hours, you can swap the fuel injector yourself for less than $300. Oil change with the OEM 5-30 oil and filter is about $45. And a coolant flush which on the V6 is ridiculously easy only cost $35. Our manifold seals can be reused since they’re rubber.

The dealership one time wanted to charge me $750 for new spark plugs that only cot $100 in parts. Didn’t have the money at the time so decided to give it a go. 45 minutes later I was done. Since then I’ve been doing all repairs myself. Plenty of YouTube videos to help.

But if you’re going with the dealer, skip the unnecessary stuff and just get one new injector. Make sure that they’re not giving themselves a 15% part markup fee either…

Those are direct injection. 2 lower seals, upper seal, and a shim.
The rails are set in between the two heads and you usually end up pulling both rails to just get one out.

[The Maverick]

Originally Posted by bishopts

You need to change your oil a lot more often than what you're doing. If your seeing 0% left then you're about 4000 miles past where you should have changed it.

Maybe not, due to the monitor considering passage of time. I was down to 9% at my last oil change that was only 3,000 miles after the previous one (but 11 months later).

[bishopts]

Originally Posted by The Maverick

Maybe not, due to the monitor considering passage of time. I was down to 9% at my last oil change that was only 3,000 miles after the previous one (but 11 months later).

P0024 is usually related to failing oil that is damaging the cam phaser. Look at the cam position variance and you will usually see that its either slow to respond when commaded or its constantly off of its commaded degree. P0010, p0011, p0014, p0016 will all be the same. Replacement of the chains and all 4 phasers.

[Classic Muscle]

I think I would politely decline the service on the fuel injectors, unless there is a related problem which I didn't see. Dealers like to recommend unnecessary work. Stick to the owners manual for what needs maintenance, and recommended intervals, except for oil changes which I would probably not go past 5000 miles, if you are planning to keep the car for a while.

[sscentex]

Agreed on skipping the injector service.

As far as quoting for parts and fluids previously replaced, that's reading like someone just going by the book and not really investigating what's going on.

[S.Macias]

I should of mentioned you'll know when a fuel injector goes bad. Misfire, sputtering, smell of gasoline, horrible ride. Might be useful if OP also wrote what symptoms the car was having.

[bishopts]

Originally Posted by S.Macias

I should of mentioned you'll know when a fuel injector goes bad. Misfire, sputtering, smell of gasoline, horrible ride. Might be useful if OP also wrote what symptoms the car was having.

Not true for all failures. Only if it sticks open.
P0202 would be an electrical failure that would keep the injector from spraying fuel. It would be accompanied with a p0302 for cylinder 2 misfire and it will feel sluggish on acceleration but not so much at higher speeds.

But the symptoms part is what caught my attention too. Why were they suggesting a fuel injector? The induction service is just fluff to add to the RO but the injector isn't part of an induction service and there is no complaints written about drivability or engine light on. Also no reasoning from the dealer as to why they are suggesting a fuel injector.