[WhiteMale]

While my car was in the body shop taken apart post collision I pulled the rain blocker off since it was fully exposed.

[arpad_m]

Funny how the JLT looks almost exactly like the the SS variant of the "baby" Roto-Fab

I don't get any excessive debris even with my Velossa air scoop, and the intake seals perfectly with the hood. The hairy cardboard hood liner on the SS definitely helps with that, though.

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

I've seen no benefit to cutting out the bottom, as I'm running the set up whole and still making solid power out of it. I've seen the threads where they talk about hacking it up but I can't for the life of me figure out why you would do that based on the results I've had with it.

Its not about how much power your making with a stock intake, it's how much power you're losing compared to a Rotofab Big Gulp once you start getting more serious with the mods. If you're over 700whp, you would benefit from a Big Gulp, the more power you make above that number, the more you would gain.

[hawk02]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

The correlation you're implying here is often the other way around: we don't recommend the intake we have simply because we already have it and want to justify our purchase---we got said intakes in the first place because we already liked them and would've recommended them for one reason or another.

Good point about the stock intake, though, it may look bland but isn't much of a restriction, especially if one is willing to cut out the bottom and use a less restrictive filter element.

The Cadillac engineers have stated that the stock air intake on the CT5-V Blackwing flows about 46% more air than the CTS-V LT4 intake, most likely due to the second opening in the OEM airbox next to the front fender. I’d guess the same basic design logic applies to the stock ZL1 intake as well. So yeah, cutting out the bottom of the airbox would almost certainly increase airflow.

One consideration with aftermarket high-flow panel filters is airflow quality rather than total volume. These engines appear to be sensitive to turbulence upstream of the MAF sensor, which can slightly affect calibration. In my experience, running a high-flow panel filter resulted in a subtle but noticeable reduction in midrange response, which resolved after reverting to the factory paper filter. This is consistent with the assumption that factory MAF calibration is optimized around the stock filter media and airflow characteristics.

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

Its not about how much power your making with a stock intake, it's how much power you're losing compared to a Rotofab Big Gulp once you start getting more serious with the mods. If you're over 700whp, you would benefit from a Big Gulp, the more power you make above that number, the more you would gain.

This is backed by dyno results I know, but what about real world results where the hood is closed and giant CFM pushing fans are not running?

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

This is backed by dyno results I know, but what about real world results where the hood is closed and giant CFM pushing fans are not running?

Irrelevant because the filter area of the Rotofab Big Gulp is larger than stock and the 5" diameter tube size is larger than stock both reducing restriction on the intake side.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

This is backed by dyno results I know, but what about real world results where the hood is closed and giant CFM pushing fans are not running?

I know Pray had done drag strip testing back to back with the Rotofab and picked up gains. Unless he did it with the hood up…

[dreksnot]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

I've seen no benefit to cutting out the bottom, as I'm running the set up whole and still making solid power out of it. I've seen the threads where they talk about hacking it up but I can't for the life of me figure out why you would do that based on the results I've had with it.

Just to try it, I cut a 3" diameter hole with a circular saw in the bottom a spare intake housing I got for this very purpose. I did not notice any difference low end or top end on the street or road course. When I say any, I mean any. Also, no increase in boost. Kept the OEM filter in place (a green filter might flow better). I saw somewhere on these forums that someone dyno'd this, OEM, Rotofab to show the difference in HP gained/lost. I recall those numbers were insignificant. But, if you're looking for better looks - anything over the stock box is very nice.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by dreksnot

Just to try it, I cut a 3" diameter hole with a circular saw in the bottom a spare intake housing I got for this very purpose. I did not notice any difference low end or top end on the street or road course. When I say any, I mean any. Also, no increase in boost. Kept the OEM filter in place (I green filter might flow better). I saw somewhere on these forums that someone dyno'd this, OEM, Rotofab to show the difference in HP gained/lost. I recall those numbers were insignificant. But, if you're looking for better looks - anything over the stock box is very nice.

A stock car is much less likely to have the OEM intake be a restriction. And in your situation the OEM air filter is likely a bigger pressure drop than the air box, so my guess is any air box improvement is negated if the air filter is the bottleneck. And again, until you increase the engines airflow requirements, there is not much to be had in the intake.

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

A stock car is much less likely to have the OEM intake be a restriction. And in your situation the OEM air filter is likely a bigger pressure drop than the air box, so my guess is any air box improvement is negated if the air filter is the bottleneck. And again, until you increase the engines airflow requirements, there is not much to be had in the intake.

Agreed, I'm not even sure why some people continue to debate this. It's just physics. I do think some people get confused about what works on a stock car vs one with more mods.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by Booher

There's no doubt that the jlt flowes more air, the problem is fitment issues . It's not going to fit out of the box, they're still backordered, and the fit and finish isn't very well either. I would steer clear of jlt imo unless you're ready to customize it and you're good with your hands. This intake also makes it so you can't use the brackets to lower the hood without extreme modifications to the box, so the filter is exposed to the elements. They also refused to refund me because it took so long to get a replacement airbox (that still isn't right).

I think we discussed this...

I had a nice conversation with the owner of S&B Filters last week and they have all the photos of the fitment and their Engineering dept has made the necessary changes. While they cannot legally make any adjustments to the corner of the air filter housing due to being a manufacturer with an EO# in California, they have sent me multiple boxes that I will be installing in the kits we sell, so the housings will fit perfectly to the hood with either our brackets or GMS units. I will have these ready in January.

I agree the airboxes are all overkill as a stock paper air-filter in an OEM airbox made 697whp with 35% ethanol with just the right combination of cooling and tuning.

Hope this helps!!

[Booher]

We did discuss how you fixed it yes, but I'm unable to. I have a spare box I can mail to anyone to modify, as I stated before, if you or anyone can offer the service, I just never heard back. Way to step up for JLT, someone had to do it, so thankyou for that.

[CalgaryZL1]

Originally Posted by IMCWORTH

if you want looks this is the one

Yup and function, less under hood heat

[djctoto]

Not stating anything that has been verified with quantifiable data but some reported factors that are worth considering when looking at intake solutions from the TB out.

Air will flow like water only as allowed by the point of the smallest constriction so installing a CAI with larger filters and tubes may not yield better flow without also removing the constriction of the stock Throttle body.

Oiled air filter elements have been reported to corrupt MAF sensors. Causing the sensors to read incorrectly. Dry filters while not flowing as well as oiled filters don't have this potential issue

Food for thought