[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Just wanted to know... as I am developing a setup to build a better means to control crankcase pressure, oil vapor and keep a closed system on the LT4 engine.

• How many are running an OPEN system, vented to atmosphere?
  
• How many have removed the OEM Air-Oil-Separator from behind the water pump?
  
• What systems have you used and do they actually remove all the oil from the Supercharger's Bricks?
  
• Have you blocked the PCV passage under the Supercharger or plumbed it back to the catch can?

[Joshinator99]

FWIW:

1. MM Wild can here. My understanding is that it’s closed 99% of the time but vents off if pressure builds up at all.
2. Still running the OEM separator.
3. I think this does an ok job of removing oil. Others might do better on that regard but the MM Wild has been perfect at removing excessive crankcase pressure. That’s more important IMO.
4. I have an LT1 so it’s been blocked from day one. Just have the PCV connections in the valve covers.

Thanks!

[clj94104]

I have a Motion Raceworks VTA setup, and I’ve plugged the PCV passage under the supercharger. I have aftermarket DSX valve covers, which are properly baffled and have 10-ORB outlets on each cover, and have ran -10 AN hose from each valve cover to the can. Coming from the PCV passage to the can, from what I’ve read, is sub optimal.

[clj94104]

I think that catch can bracket is pretty sweet btw, Dave.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by clj94104

I think that catch can bracket is pretty sweet btw, Dave.

Thanks! When i get this system wrapped up, I will have it available on our site to order. Just working out the details and of course will have to hit the track to be sure everything tests out to work as designed.

[Bangkok_ZL1]

same as Josh on my LT-4. had pictures of my bricks after only 4000 miles, tonnes of oil. Had to take the supercharger off to install F.I. Interchiller's head/supercharger spacer plates at 15,000 miles and when I pulled the lid, nada. It looked almost new. MM Wild has done the job, and I also like the venting under positive pressure.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

It has been a while since I started this thread but I've been making progress to eliminate the oil being captured by the catch can due to high G-force right handers that tend to fill the driver's side valve cover up more than usual.

As I have noticed a trend for so many to add a Catch Can in various types and configurations, it always made me wonder not tap into the OEM system to keep it closed. My previous twin Evil Energy $40 CCs have been perfect for over a year of tracking the car with zero oil inside the supercharger or upon the bricks. However, at VIR I watched as Jeremy had to consistently drain his MightyMouse catch can of oil as it filled up after just a few sessions due to the high lateral Gs with the Hoosier slicks on all four corners.

If some of you were NOT aware... your plastic OEM catch can hidden in plain sight behind the water pump, has a staged 5/8" (-10) steel tube going directly into the oil pan with baffles as an automatic drain. Yes, this does require removing the water pump to remove the OEM plastic tank, but it will make for more room for activities!!

So far I have removed the plastic tank, Identified that the tube is indeed a Metric sized hose, so a -10 compression fitting is too small, but a -10AN Push-Lock fitting is perfect! I cut the hose right after forward tube heading up to the tank and pushed in the fitting, using two Oetiker Hose clamps and wrapped that up with a marine rated epoxy lined HD heat shrink for a perfect seal. This tube is not under pressure as it is just a drain, but I wanted to be sure there was no way for something transferring oil could leak near the soon-to-be-installed ARH headers.

I am awaiting a few more fittings from Amazon tomorrow to wrap this up, so I will leave this post with a couple photos and share more later. As for which catch can I feel has the best means of separating oil vapor... the Improved Racing part seems to do the best work with the greatest flexibility of mounting with the bracket that I made. Some of the tracks I run at are getting sticky at Tech Inspections due to fires created by poorly mounted CC systems where the oil could fall upon headers and start an engine fire, as I witnessed three last year at two different tracks!

[Joshinator99]

Nice update! Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

[Evansa22]

Could you just use an oem quick connect to -an adapter? Or does that put the drain connection point too high?

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by Evansa22

Could you just use an oem quick connect to -an adapter? Or does that put the drain connection point too high?

I thought about that and had the fitting made... but when I installed it, my brain kicked in to say, "What if the fitting leaks?" The location offers virtually no room tighten the fitting to the adapter without removing the entire hose. At least with the OEM hard tube going behind/above the engine mount if I need to tighten the fitting, its not going to be a full removal of the hose. See the photos... I think you'll agree this will be a better way to do it.

[Evansa22]

Looks good. Maybe I should have been more specific. Was talking about a female quick connect to -an adapter. Keep that stock hose in place and tie into the top of it.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by Evansa22

Looks good. Maybe I should have been more specific. Was talking about a female quick connect to -an adapter. Keep that stock hose in place and tie into the top of it.

I will get a picture of how huge that fitting is and share it later today. You would need a female "hotdog in the hallway" sized fitting to go over the one and I suspect it would still be a beyotch to get to and remove the clip. For me, I wanted to re-route it away from the water pump area and belts, just in the remote case a belt breaks on track, it doesn't take out an oil hose that would have to be run in a path that could cause a wreck due to oil getting under my tires.

Hope that helps.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Bangkok_ZL1

MM Wild has done the job, and I also like the venting under positive pressure.

I just want to be sure that you know that one of your lines is the inlet and the other is the outlet, so you are venting the crankcase entirely through one line? How much boost are you running?

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by JSH

I just want to be sure that you know that one of your lines is the inlet and the other is the outlet, so you are venting the crankcase entirely through one line? How much boost are you running?

No, not exactly... but yeah if you understand a "closed system" does have a few limits. I am collecting both valve covers to one inlet to the Improved Racing .5L CCR and the other input to the catch can is from the crankcase under the supercharger. The airflow pull will be a -12 to the SC intake on the JLT inlet tube. So it will have two -10AN inlets from the engine, one of which on the driver's side that has the tendency to pick up more oil due to high-G right handers, should drop its oil to the fill tube as it makes its way over.

Today's progress was a bit better and it should work out great! See the latest pics!

I have wrapped the hose with the same titanium braided wrap that is used for the custom plug wires I make... its a 2500ºF rated wrap; not that the crankcase hoses are under pressure or need it, but it sure looks baddass!!