[ZL1_1LE]

I'm content with my current power level with the modifications in my signature. Now I believe it's time to upgrade some suspension components in stages. I currently have the Eibach Pro lowering springs which I like the stance of and that's the only thing I've done to the suspension thus far. Where do I go from here? What should be my next upgrade suspension wise, to help with handling as well as traction? Help me spend some cash, in stages.....

[WhiteMale]

I have the BMR stuff: cradle lockout, upper control arms, upper/lower trailing arms, front of cradle braces.
Greatly reduces wheelhop.

[ZL1_1LE]

Originally Posted by WhiteMale

I have the BMR stuff: cradle lockout, upper control arms, upper/lower trailing arms, front of cradle braces.
Greatly reduces wheelhop.

No sway bars yet? And were the control arms easy install? I already have the cradle lockout from BMR, and that helped with the "swaying" issues at high speeds tremendously. Thanks for any help.

[radz28]

Originally Posted by ZL1_1LE

I'm content with my current power level with the modifications in my signature. Now I believe it's time to upgrade some suspension components in stages. I currently have the Eibach Pro lowering springs which I like the stance of and that's the only thing I've done to the suspension thus far. Where do I go from here? What should be my next upgrade suspension wise, to help with handling as well as traction? Help me spend some cash, in stages.....

I wouldn't pretend to suggest to you what you need, but I installed what I have because of my perception of the durability it adds and to help with eliminating floppy stamped steel arms flailing around under power. On the MT ET Street SSs, I could roll into the throttle from a dig and didn't get much in the way of wheelhop or anything like that with this set-up. I was only trying to manage wheelhop and add durability - not lower or anything else for this matter.

I started with all of the available arms BMR listed (back in 2021) and added their rear cradle front braces with rod ends. They emit a LITTLE NVH, but it's completely livable to me - maybe not others though. It is my understanding rod ends lose spring rate, so I also added their rear lowering springs. It was difficult (and probably not completely necessary) for me calculate what the loss was from all of the bushings I replaced with the rod ends, but I figured the loss was greater than what these springs added (I think I posted some raw data in my thread in Suspension when I replaced the arms). These "lowering" springs didn't net much in the way of lowering MY car (which was fine - I wasn't looking to lower it). It measured and measures the same as it had before the swap, so no loss for me there. In the future, I plan on replacing the rubber knuckle bushings, too, so I figure that will probably bring the effective rate delta closer to nothing. I see BMR has a kit for those, too, even though I'm not sure I need all of them, because I think ZL1s already come with one or two rod/solid bushings for a couple arms already (I think ZLEs have rod/solid bushings for all arms in the knuckles).

I noticed several months ago that BMR started offering adjustable lower control arms for our cars, too. I'm not sure if I'm going to replace those, too. I eliminated the rest of the stamped arms already, so I might do these eventually, but wouldn't know if they offer much benefit otherwise.

I, also, added ZLE cradle bushings when I did the BMR arms in 2021. I couldn't offer an A-B-comparison of any of these because I replaced so much at once, but I know at least the cradle can't squirm around anymore. I might do the diff' bushings at some point, but I don't really want more noise from the suspension. I think there is merit in keeping all of that locked down, especially from a dig, but I'm not yet sure what I think about doing that mod' for a while.

That's what I've done, and a little of why. Some are plenty fine with poly-bushings, but I believe you still lose spring rate. Maybe what you lose doesn't matter for street-stuff - I don't know. I would imagine some weight transfer could be helpful, but couldn't quantify if the MRC would help or hinder that.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by ZL1_1LE

What should be my next upgrade suspension wise, to help with handling as well as traction? Help me spend some cash, in stages.....

Are you looking for better traction on the strip or road course?

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by ZL1_1LE

I'm content with my current power level with the modifications in my signature. Now I believe it's time to upgrade some suspension components in stages. I currently have the Eibach Pro lowering springs which I like the stance of and that's the only thing I've done to the suspension thus far. Where do I go from here? What should be my next upgrade suspension wise, to help with handling as well as traction? Help me spend some cash, in stages.....

Hey buddy, would be helpful to know what your wheel / tire combo is.... and to confirm you are wanting "traction" for straight line / street?

If so, I found alot of benefit with the entire BMR catalog. Prior; was getting plenty of wheel hop, the car did not track straight, and just felt sloppy...

Bolted everything up except the rear sway-bar and lower control arms (2 years ago) and added some R888R's and was supper happy until 800rwtq, then switched to a Nitto 555R2.

Just added some Ridetech Coil-overs, and will be bolting up the BMR "coil over" lower control arms next, which are 1 pound lighter than OEM.

What tires are you running now?

[willzilla]

Originally Posted by ZL1_1LE

No sway bars yet? And were the control arms easy install? I already have the cradle lockout from BMR, and that helped with the "swaying" issues at high speeds tremendously. Thanks for any help.

Yes, easy install. Here's my install:

[ZL1_1LE]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Hey buddy, would be helpful to know what your wheel / tire combo is.... and to confirm you are wanting "traction" for straight line / street?

If so, I found alot of benefit with the entire BMR catalog. Prior; was getting plenty of wheel hop, the car did not track straight, and just felt sloppy...

Bolted everything up except the rear sway-bar and lower control arms (2 years ago) and added some R888R's and was supper happy until 800rwtq, then switched to a Nitto 555R2.

Just added some Ridetech Coil-overs, and will be bolting up the BMR "coil over" lower control arms next, which are 1 pound lighter than OEM.

What tires are you running now?

I am also on Nitto 555R2s, was it an easy install in your garage, all of those arms? I'm worried about the final triagulation if I end up doing them myself. I'm only familiar with Jeep suspension where the pinion angle and control arms etc need to be perfect so that there is no driveline vibration. Did you do one arm at a time so that as not to disrupt the suspension from it's original location? And anythng below 65mph on a 80+ degree day is impossible to put the power to the ground, it'll do it, but I just want it to shit and get

Originally Posted by JSH

Are you looking for better traction on the strip or road course?

BOTH!!! If that's even possible, I'm guessing anything other than stock will help with the feel of the car into the corners and going straight.

Originally Posted by willzilla

Yes, easy install. Here's my install:

Thanks wilzilla! I think i'm subscribed to your channel already haha great videos!

[JSH]

Originally Posted by ZL1_1LE

I

BOTH!!! If that's even possible, I'm guessing anything other than stock will help with the feel of the car into the corners and going straight.

I'm pretty sure that an aftermarket 1LE road racing suspension setup is going the opposite direction in terms of what's best at the strip. First of all, the 1LE suspension comes from the factory as a road racing suspension. I believe my 1LE suspension is still stock and the car has ran a 1.35 60 ft. It's going to be near to impossible to find the suspension that works better for both

[WhiteMale]

Originally Posted by ZL1_1LE

No sway bars yet? And were the control arms easy install? I already have the cradle lockout from BMR, and that helped with the "swaying" issues at high speeds tremendously. Thanks for any help.

I left that out yes the non-adjustable BMR rear sway bar, stock end links, for now any way.

[clj94104]

BMR is the move. Cradle lockout kit, 15” conversion kit really made a difference.

[Camfab]

Originally Posted by JSH

I'm pretty sure that an aftermarket 1LE road racing suspension setup is going the opposite direction in terms of what's best at the strip. First of all, the 1LE suspension comes from the factory as a road racing suspension. I believe my 1LE suspension is still stock and the car has ran a 1.35 60 ft. It's going to be near to impossible to find the suspension that works better for both

I can't imagine a better example of why the ZLE suspension is an engineering master piece.

[ZL1_1LE]

Originally Posted by JSH

I'm pretty sure that an aftermarket 1LE road racing suspension setup is going the opposite direction in terms of what's best at the strip. First of all, the 1LE suspension comes from the factory as a road racing suspension. I believe my 1LE suspension is still stock and the car has ran a 1.35 60 ft. It's going to be near to impossible to find the suspension that works better for both

The control arms and sway bars are different on the 1LE ZL1 platform? I thought the only difference was the shocks and wheels, and aero of course.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by ZL1_1LE

The control arms and sway bars are different on the 1LE ZL1 platform? I thought the only difference was the shocks and wheels, and aero of course.

Springs, dampers, rear subframe mounts, some control arms, anti roll bars