[radz28]

Thanks, Scott. But - I don't feel smart...

[radz28]

It looks like this bolt kit might be helpful: 24050764

ALSO - HUGE THANKS TO JL FOR THE ASSISTANCE!!!

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by radz28

Something else to add, for anyone thinking about cooling mods'.

There are some 10L' applications where there is a tranny cooler bypass modification. What I've seen are truck applications, wherein the inlet/outlet hose flange is a large block that contains a removable thermostat. While I haven't removed mine, I took a lot of time, feeling around the entirety of the block/flange and do not notice any openings like would be found for a bypass or thermostat. There are what seem like 3-holes: inlet, outlet, and fastener to the transmission case. There doesn't seem to be a modification for this application.

This is addressed in the NGD kit, however, which is what I'll be doing, too, just as Rod' talked about in the recall thread. It's just a removal/reversal-type procedure, so I look forward to that.

There is no way to change or modifiy the OEM thermostat bypass as it is sealed. For the past year, I have been using the Improved Racing 140º bypass (IRB) which at first is a great bolt-on part... ONCE you have CUT the OEM tubes from the bypass, used a chisel to break the ADEL Clamp strap holding the tube to the transmission case. Once these bits are out and removed, the IRB bolted up but not before removing a plug from the case and having to install a flush allen-socket plug I had to source from Mr. Gasket pipe plugs from O-O-O'Reilly's... Auto Parts! I used this in conjunction with my revised Bar & Plate Heat Exchanger that replaced the twice-failing OEM one due to gravel and track schrapnel finding it's way between the plastic and cooler's tubes.

BUT THEN... several weeks ago, after yet another update to the transmission cooling system, at VIR... many $$$$$ in development, track costs, accommodations and fuel/tires... 3-laps in the IRB FAILED and it does so to the CLOSED Position!!!!! WTF!!! Why on Earth would you make your part fail to the WORST CASE SCENARIO?

So I now make a Billet part with -8 fittings and it has ZERO Thermostat to fail. Car runs a steady 145º and at CMP with back-to-back sessions on a 98º trackday, trans temps never exceeded 215º.

I will call it a WIN!

[radz28]

Originally Posted by Patriot Motorsports USA

There is no way to change or modifiy the OEM thermostat bypass as it is sealed. For the past year, I have been using the Improved Racing 140º bypass (IRB) which at first is a great bolt-on part... ONCE you have CUT the OEM tubes from the bypass, used a chisel to break the ADEL Clamp strap holding the tube to the transmission case. Once these bits are out and removed, the IRB bolted up but not before removing a plug from the case and having to install a flush allen-socket plug I had to source from Mr. Gasket pipe plugs from O-O-O'Reilly's... Auto Parts! I used this in conjunction with my revised Bar & Plate Heat Exchanger that replaced the twice-failing OEM one due to gravel and track schrapnel finding it's way between the plastic and cooler's tubes.

BUT THEN... several weeks ago, after yet another update to the transmission cooling system, at VIR... many $$$$$ in development, track costs, accommodations and fuel/tires... 3-laps in the IRB FAILED and it does so to the CLOSED Position!!!!! WTF!!! Why on Earth would you make your part fail to the WORST CASE SCENARIO?

So I now make a Billet part with -8 fittings and it has ZERO Thermostat to fail. Car runs a steady 145º and at CMP with back-to-back sessions on a 98º trackday, trans temps never exceeded 215º.

I will call it a WIN!

Where is the bypass you found? I found mine in the SIU videos and from NGD. Their instructions state to remove the thermostat and reverse valve and reinstall. There is no other by-pass that I can see on my car. The only other place that I have seen one, for truck applications, is on the cooler line block that attaches to the side of the tranny case. I do NOT have any serviceable components in that block, unlike the truck bypasses I've seen. The block you are describing would, in my estimation, work, but there is still a brass wax-style thermostat in the valve body.

[radz28]

For clarity - changes for the ZLE A10, as far as my memory goes, and as far as anything I've read are/is minimal, mechanically:

The A10 transmissions in all ZL1s are, mechanically, the same, except the oil pan. The oil pans are different such that the stand pipe is shorter on the ZLE so it can't be filled as high, to prevent foaming. Due to higher G-forces the ZLE package imparts, higher fluid fill allows enough fluid to slosh into moving parts that foaming occurs. Lowering the fluid level, apparently, keeps the sloshing to a minimum. The SuperMatic you are referring to is a crate tranny and not the standard production line A10 ZLEs get. The LT4 is rated for the same torque in both models. The only mechanical difference I've seen advertised and stated by GM Media is the oil pan. The 10L90 does have tougher guts than the 10L80 in found in SSs/LT1s, and the only applications I've see for them are ZL1s and CT5-Vs. I'd be interested to learn more, but I have found no information otherwise. The torque rating you might be looking at is a ZR1 A8 in the catalog (2025).

Maybe I'm missing something (could be), but all the sources I find say the same thing. The differences are only as listed above. Below, I'm providing only a few examples of my statements. BUT - that's not to say there aren't changes that engineering can make from year-to-year. For example, my valve body has a differing amount of check balls and locations. There's a dampener that doesn't match other examples. There is the separator plate difference outline earlier. So - I wouldn't suggest to anyone there can't be differences, however these sorts of assemblies do change over time, but the function doesn't much.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=547149

"... New hardware includes a new transmission oil pan and an additional cooling duct for the steering gear...."
This duct is part of the ZLE-specific duct package that comes in the trunk of the car that's not recommended for street use, even though I leave it on (I bought it separately, obviously, but any Camaro could add it I believe), lol... Water ingestion management, I suppose?

"... Unique calibrations were made to the transmission, electronic limited slip differential and performance traction management system...


https://www.hagerty.com/media/news/2...ing%20anywhere

"... The only additional hardware the 10-speed version will get is a new transmission oil pan and an additional cooling duct for the steering gear..."


https://www.motortrend.com/news/2019...tic-10-speed-1

"... ... The new gearbox has its own 1LE-specific calibration..."


I'm open to learning more and changing my understanding.

OH - something else that is unnerving - it was hard to put torque to the EP-bolts. Maybe it's my Chinesium sockets, but I'm looking into that. It feels like there's a weird kind of radius/taper in the fastener face that doesn't engage the heads of the bolts well. Because these faster heads are very short, the engagement of my socket is such that it's VERY easy to spin-off the bolt head and start rounding it off. Not great... I'm ordering up another one to try, and hang onto for the future (when the updated plate is released and I install it), and will likely order more of these bolts, too, because I don't want this issue to come back, and get worse, even though I don't PLAN on doing this many more times (cough - fuel tank...).

[Roddrz]

Originally Posted by Patriot Motorsports USA

There is no way to change or modifiy the OEM thermostat bypass as it is sealed.

These are NGD's instructions to remove the thermostat for the 10L60:

For the cooler valve, remove the small brass thermostat device and install the
cooler valve BACKWARDS into the bore first.

Then, install the OEM spring, and O-Ringed end plug.
This will ensure full time cooler flow. "Do not re-install the brass piece for any reason."

Reference the picture: The thermostat is the brass piece.

The cooler valve is not shown and was already installed BACKWARDS in the valve body as per instructions.

With the brass thermostat, tranny temperatures were >170 degrees Fahrenheit.

Without the brass thermostat, tranny temps are < 170 degrees Fahrenheit.

Note: To achieve these lower temperatures, the tranny lines are no longer connected to the engines' radiator

The tranny lines connect only to the transmission's radiator.

With this setup, you can flush out all of the tranny fluid, yes all fluid, from the system using cold fluid.

[radz28]

Rod’.

Can you tell me if you had issues with this bolt? I swear mine (even a BRAND NEW one) feel like they’re going to strip before reaching torque spec…

[Roddrz]

Originally Posted by radz28

Rod’.

Can you tell me if you had issues with this bolt? I swear mine (even a BRAND NEW one) feel like they’re going to strip before reaching torque spec…

Yeah, my socket slipped off the External Torx Heads.

I was not impressed by these E-Torx bolts, nor was I impressed by the mix of Hex bolts and E-Torx bolts for the same gasket plate.
That made no sense to me.

Applying downward force helped maintain the torque wrench on the bolt and from slipping off the head.
Torquing improved but not great.

[radz28]

But, specifically, that aluminum one I circled, did you feel like it was stripping but trusted it wouldn't, and torqued it until it reached spec'? That's what I feel like I have to do, even with a brand new one. I'm looking for a steel replacement, like other ones on the VB, but it just feels like it's going to snap...

[Roddrz]

I torqued the bolts to 70 inch-pounds (5.8 ft-lbs), and completed the upgrade without incident.

[radz28]

No problem with that bolt, huh? OK.

Thank you for the feedback.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by Roddrz

These are NGD's instructions to remove the thermostat for the 10L60:

For the cooler valve, remove the small brass thermostat device and install the
cooler valve BACKWARDS into the bore first.

Then, install the OEM spring, and O-Ringed end plug.
This will ensure full time cooler flow. "Do not re-install the brass piece for any reason."

Reference the picture: The thermostat is the brass piece.

The cooler valve is not shown and was already installed BACKWARDS in the valve body as per instructions.

With the brass thermostat, tranny temperatures were >170 degrees Fahrenheit.

Without the brass thermostat, tranny temps are < 170 degrees Fahrenheit.

Note: To achieve these lower temperatures, the tranny lines are no longer connected to the engines' radiator

The tranny lines connect only to the transmission's radiator.

With this setup, you can flush out all of the tranny fluid, yes all fluid, from the system using cold fluid.

Thank You for this clarity as I was referring to the outside block that is sealed with the lines, not like the truck with the port for removing the thermostat valve.

The differences I mentioned are all from Word of Mouth from individuals at both GM Performance & P&M. It could also be the reason the designs from NGD are not synchonous with the actual items in the ZLE vehicles.

Guess we will soon find out.

[radz28]

And that aluminum bolt broke off in the VB, lol... So - I'm sourcing a steel one to replace it. I don't know why this is. I used a brand new OEM replacement, WITH the sealant on it, and it turned until it snapped. What a MF'ing PITA.

It seems like a suitable replacement is something like a M6 x 1 x 60mm. It MIGHT be 65mm, as it seems to depend on how it's measured, but if you measure from I'm talking about the "grip length", or from under the head to the threaded tip. If I can find the right one, I'll report a part number, but it seems like the E10 bolts, from near the shift solenoids are about the correct length, too, but I'm struggling to find the right part numbers for those at the moment.

[Roddrz]

Originally Posted by radz28

And that aluminum bolt broke off in the VB, lol... So - I'm sourcing a steel one to replace it. I don't know why this is. I used a brand new OEM replacement, WITH the sealant on it, and it turned until it snapped.

5 - 6 ft-lb (70 in-lbs) snapped the bolt?

Thank you for telling me because I'm planning to drop the pan and re-torque all of the bolts and also check the helical pump gear for tooth damage since I wasn't aware that the GM gear may also be an issue but not for the Ford.

Re-torquing bolts for steel gaskets may be necessary after a few heat cycles to ensure proper sealing, as the gasket can compress and lose preload. It's generally recommended to check the torque after some use.