[Gmcguy]

Looking to purchase a 2017 camero ss that’s well built. (At least I think) Would love to get some opinions, I’m rather new to the LS platform but this car caught my eye.

900whp on e70


Texas Speed 416 Stroker Motor (stock motor stroked 25k miles)
• Custom Texas Speed Cam
• Callies Crank
• ATl Balancer
• Cadillac Racing Lifters
• LT4 HPFP + LPFP
• DSX Aux Pump Kit
• DSX IAT Breakout Harness
• Alky Control Triple Nozzle Meth Kit
• F1A-94 Procharger Kit
•American Racing 2" Headers & X-
pipe to Stock NPP Exhaust
• MM Wild Catch Can
• AEM Wideband in OEM defrost vent
• McLeod RXT 1200 Clutch
• Hurst Short Shifter
• Monster Upgraded Slave Cylinder
Remote Clutch Bleed
• DSS 1-Piece Aluminum Driveshaft
OEM ZL1 Wheels
• Weld S76 Wheels (20x8 Fronts) +
Weld S76 17x10 Beadlocks (Rears)

Obviously I understand that there’s no way to know whether it was beaten to h3ll and back or babied. Does this seem like a build that can handle 950whp? Not knowing much about the platform, naturally worried about engine limits, trans, and rear end.

I appreciate everyone’s response! I can ask seller for more info if needed. Thanks

[vince3]

looks like a good deal. I'd buy by the cumrollo while its still available.

[beowulf556]

What’s the price?

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Gmcguy

Looking to purchase a 2017 camero ss that’s well built. (At least I think) Would love to get some opinions, I’m rather new to the LS platform but this car caught my eye.

900whp on e70


Texas Speed 416 Stroker Motor (stock motor stroked 25k miles)
• Custom Texas Speed Cam
• Callies Crank
• ATl Balancer
• Cadillac Racing Lifters
• LT4 HPFP + LPFP
• DSX Aux Pump Kit
• DSX IAT Breakout Harness
• Alky Control Triple Nozzle Meth Kit
• F1A-94 Procharger Kit
•American Racing 2" Headers & X-
pipe to Stock NPP Exhaust
• MM Wild Catch Can
• AEM Wideband in OEM defrost vent
• McLeod RXT 1200 Clutch
• Hurst Short Shifter
• Monster Upgraded Slave Cylinder
Remote Clutch Bleed
• DSS 1-Piece Aluminum Driveshaft
OEM ZL1 Wheels
• Weld S76 Wheels (20x8 Fronts) +
Weld S76 17x10 Beadlocks (Rears)

Obviously I understand that there’s no way to know whether it was beaten to h3ll and back or babied. Does this seem like a build that can handle 950whp? Not knowing much about the platform, naturally worried about engine limits, trans, and rear end.

I appreciate everyone’s response! I can ask seller for more info if needed. Thanks

The “Cadillac Racing Lifters” are inferior to Johnson 2110 and relying on that much meth is much worse than a proper fuel system (big DI or port injection). Just my 2 cents FWIW.

[CamaroDreams76]

camAro

Looks ok. Stock rear end as well.

[GreyGhost702]

Originally Posted by Gmcguy

Looking to purchase a 2017 camero ss that’s well built. (At least I think) Would love to get some opinions, I’m rather new to the LS platform but this car caught my eye.

900whp on e70


Texas Speed 416 Stroker Motor (stock motor stroked 25k miles)
• Custom Texas Speed Cam
• Callies Crank
• ATl Balancer
• Cadillac Racing Lifters
• LT4 HPFP + LPFP
• DSX Aux Pump Kit
• DSX IAT Breakout Harness
• Alky Control Triple Nozzle Meth Kit
• F1A-94 Procharger Kit
•American Racing 2" Headers & X-
pipe to Stock NPP Exhaust
• MM Wild Catch Can
• AEM Wideband in OEM defrost vent
• McLeod RXT 1200 Clutch
• Hurst Short Shifter
• Monster Upgraded Slave Cylinder
Remote Clutch Bleed
• DSS 1-Piece Aluminum Driveshaft
OEM ZL1 Wheels
• Weld S76 Wheels (20x8 Fronts) +
Weld S76 17x10 Beadlocks (Rears)

Obviously I understand that there’s no way to know whether it was beaten to h3ll and back or babied. Does this seem like a build that can handle 950whp? Not knowing much about the platform, naturally worried about engine limits, trans, and rear end.

I appreciate everyone’s response! I can ask seller for more info if needed. Thanks

Are you buying it to race or drive to work every day? Or just a weekend toy with occasional track use? If E85 is available for your normal commute, you shouldn't have a problem feeding it. Might not be the most well mannered driver depending on the cam, we're assuming stock rear gears here.

For a race car, it's got a great start as a drag car, though an Auto would be the preferable transmission choice as the A8 or A10 are vastly superior to any manual. As Josh has said, there are some obvious "could be better's" but for getting down the track once, this setup does the trick and at least has the right fuel in it. The tune is probably honestly the most important thing to look at. It's going to determine if the car runs/drives like dogshit or a raped ape. Same applies as a weekend toy. If you really want to kick the tires on this thing and dig deep, you can always ask for a current/recent datalog, if there's any dyno sheets to go along with the car, and an oil sample to have tested for particulates, see if there's any unusual wear happening. With the ethanol and methanol in the combustion chamber, it'd be interesting to hear the oil's side of the story.

As far as the limitations of the platform, once these engines are forged they can withstand 1500hp+ but it's usually a matter of fueling. Again, at the 900whp claim on E70 + Meth, it's well within the cars capacity. Doesn't mean shit can't break. A look at that tune and a datalog will tell a lot about how well the fuel system is keeping up. I'm not as familiar with the F series Prochargers, but I think they are capable of more power. I've seen D1X cars pushing 900. F1 is where you want to be, as if the blower isn't working as hard at 900 the IAT's stay lower, power stays more consistent, and less worry if there's enough to keep the boom happy. Transmission-wise, that's a little wishy washy. Depending on what documents you want to read from, the TR6060 in a 6G SS1LE is rated for 500ft/lbs. Regular SS at 420ft/lbs. Though parallel conversations between this forum and other bow-tie sites claim all through 500-700ft/lb range, with the ZL-1 being set firmly at 650ft/lbs though I still feel those claims are bias I never bothered to give a damn enough to call Tremec and ask them WTF their tranny's are worth, but if you want to know for sure, Tremec will pick up the phone. All drag car rear ends are on borrowed time. You never know which launch will be the one that shotguns gear fragments. I think it's why roll racing is more of a thing than drag racing anymore. Easier on the car, fewer repairs needed.

Like I've told walk-up buyers in the past on used sports cars, if I wanted to buy a sports car and not drive the hell out of it, I'd have bought a 'vette, jean shorts, and a hawaiian shirt. Just presume if it's sitting on slicks and skinnies, this car has seen the redline more than Ashton Kutcher's seen panties thrown at him.

Personally, I'd rather buy a built car that's been beat on than a stock car that's been beat on. Usually getting much better bang for your dollars, too. The owner is always taking the hit on not only the value of the car, but the parts + labor invested. Make no mistake, though. What you're buying is a financial black hole

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by GreyGhost702

Make no mistake, though. What you're buying is a financial black hole

Truth.

[KingLT1]

I hear those CamEro's are all the rage!!

[Justcruising]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I hear those CamEro's are all the rage!!

On separate note dang those wheels look good

[Gmcguy]

Originally Posted by GreyGhost702

Are you buying it to race or drive to work every day? Or just a weekend toy with occasional track use? If E85 is available for your normal commute, you shouldn't have a problem feeding it. Might not be the most well mannered driver depending on the cam, we're assuming stock rear gears here.

For a race car, it's got a great start as a drag car, though an Auto would be the preferable transmission choice as the A8 or A10 are vastly superior to any manual. As Josh has said, there are some obvious "could be better's" but for getting down the track once, this setup does the trick and at least has the right fuel in it. The tune is probably honestly the most important thing to look at. It's going to determine if the car runs/drives like dogshit or a raped ape. Same applies as a weekend toy. If you really want to kick the tires on this thing and dig deep, you can always ask for a current/recent datalog, if there's any dyno sheets to go along with the car, and an oil sample to have tested for particulates, see if there's any unusual wear happening. With the ethanol and methanol in the combustion chamber, it'd be interesting to hear the oil's side of the story.

As far as the limitations of the platform, once these engines are forged they can withstand 1500hp+ but it's usually a matter of fueling. Again, at the 900whp claim on E70 + Meth, it's well within the cars capacity. Doesn't mean shit can't break. A look at that tune and a datalog will tell a lot about how well the fuel system is keeping up. I'm not as familiar with the F series Prochargers, but I think they are capable of more power. I've seen D1X cars pushing 900. F1 is where you want to be, as if the blower isn't working as hard at 900 the IAT's stay lower, power stays more consistent, and less worry if there's enough to keep the boom happy. Transmission-wise, that's a little wishy washy. Depending on what documents you want to read from, the TR6060 in a 6G SS1LE is rated for 500ft/lbs. Regular SS at 420ft/lbs. Though parallel conversations between this forum and other bow-tie sites claim all through 500-700ft/lb range, with the ZL-1 being set firmly at 650ft/lbs though I still feel those claims are bias I never bothered to give a damn enough to call Tremec and ask them WTF their tranny's are worth, but if you want to know for sure, Tremec will pick up the phone. All drag car rear ends are on borrowed time. You never know which launch will be the one that shotguns gear fragments. I think it's why roll racing is more of a thing than drag racing anymore. Easier on the car, fewer repairs needed.

Like I've told walk-up buyers in the past on used sports cars, if I wanted to buy a sports car and not drive the hell out of it, I'd have bought a 'vette, jean shorts, and a hawaiian shirt. Just presume if it's sitting on slicks and skinnies, this car has seen the redline more than Ashton Kutcher's seen panties thrown at him.

Personally, I'd rather buy a built car that's been beat on than a stock car that's been beat on. Usually getting much better bang for your dollars, too. The owner is always taking the hit on not only the value of the car, but the parts + labor invested. Make no mistake, though. What you're buying is a financial black hole

It’ll be a weekend car, don’t plan to track it much at all as the nearest track to me is an hour and a half away, just don’t have the time on Friday/saturday nights. E85 is at almost every gas station I go to so I’ll be good there. I don’t beat my toys to death but enjoy rowing gears every once in awhile and want something I don’t have to stress about doing so in.
It is a stock rear end so I’ll be avoiding launches for my own peace of mind.
I was going to ask for an oil sample but it was literally just changed. As for data logs I’ll have to ask if he’s recorded any.

Is there any body you could recommend to review the data log if he has them?

[Gmcguy]

Originally Posted by vince3

looks like a good deal. I'd buy by the cumrollo while its still available.

I don’t see it being available long… one of those deals where I found out about the guy prior to the owner listing it on marketplace. Once it hits marketplace it’s gone. Trying to make a decision asap without regrets.😅

[Smokin19]

Originally Posted by beowulf556

What’s the price?

Must be too high to quote.

[Gmcguy]

Originally Posted by beowulf556

What’s the price?

29

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Justcruising

On separate note dang those wheels look good

Thank you sir!